New (to me) Logan 200

Update:

The chuck came off without too much trouble. I decided to start with what I thought would be the lowest load on the gears, and work my way up from there, if needed. I used a 1/2 inch wratchet with an impact socket tied to a long hex nut (threaded rod connector) locked in the chuck. Spun the cone by hand then pulled back on the handle. I tried it 2x with no luck, but my weight lifter son had no trouble at all. It was likely more speed and coordination, but he's stronger, faster and more coordinated, so who knows.

Unfortunately, the nose of the spindle is a real mess. Someone bored into it a few times, and the largest cutout nibbled away a little more than an 1/8 inch off the nose. I was a bit disgusted (Newbie error - never thought to look). It can possibly be repaired, but it won't be easy. It certainly has to come out.

I started pulling things apart, and that thing is in there tight. I tried some light "persuasion" with a block of soft wood and a rubber mallet, but I believe a puller is going to be needed. Steve/Stevecmo - if you can describe how you braced against the headstock, I would appreciate hearing about any puller setup that worked. I was thinking about some 2x4's along the bed as spacers, a plate with a hole on the end, and a 3/4 threaded rod.
I can't recall the specific web site, but I do recall reading about having to line up the gear key with a slot in the inner bearing cover. Any other things to watch out for?
Does it help to apply a little heat to the front bearing area? The paint is gone anyway, but not sure how much I could get away with before causing problems.
Does anyone know if spindles from other Logan models may also fit the model 200?

Hopefully, this thing won't have to sit too long.
TomKro
 
Tom,

I think you have the idea of how the puller works. I first tried using 2x4's and they didn't cut it. I took a 1/2" x 3" bar and bent it into a "U" so the so of the "U" would fit around the boss on the front of the headstock. Then I used a 1/2" x 3" bar with a hole in it to span the legs of the "U". I used 3/4" all thread thru the hole and I think just heavy flat washers on the left side.

I used lots of penetrating oil around the front bearing / casting. Then just start cranking slowly. It'll break loose. Pine Sol is the best for cleaning the bearings. Just douche until all the dried grease and gunk comes out. Then wash with hot soapy water then blow dry with compressed air. DO NOT spin the bearing with the compressed air - it will ruin the races. Then just a little oil until you're ready to grease and assemble.

Steve
 
Tom, I made a trip to the shop today,and found of all things, a Logan spindle with the front bearing assembly. Perfect spindle threads and what should be a good bearing. These parts came off of school machines in the 70's and never were used in a production shop.Let me know if you want me to ship the 3 gears and the spindle or you want to drive out,I have a show(gun) that I'm working this weekend but if I ship tomorrow AM you might have them this week-end.--David
 
Steve - I really like the idea of the U shaped bar. I don't think I have anything big enough to shape 1/2 x 3, but maybe I can weld up some iron pipe and flat stock to duplicate the general idea. I'm always looking for an excuse to dig out the little Hobart.

Stonehands - That's very good news on the spindle, I'll PM you shortly.

Many Thanks,
TomKro
 
Tom,

I'm sure the 1/2" bar is way overkill. I would think 1/4" or 3/16" would be plenty stout if that makes it easier.

Steve
 
Spindle Removal Update: I couldn’t find anything suitable for bending up flat bar to make a U shaped bracket for a puller, so I splurged and mail ordered a short piece of 5 inch schedule 40 aluminum pipe and a short piece of flatstock. See attached pic for the setup.

Spindle removal was quite the job. It turns out that the bearing fit really wasn’t the major problem. The bull gear was hung up on some deformation from the locking screw. I had to use flat bars between the hub of the bull gear and the inside of the headstock to hold the gear back as the spindle was pulled out (the white wooden stick in the image didn’t hold up very long). I ended up using two layers of 1/8 x 5/8 flatstock on each side of the gear hub to prevent the gear teeth from jamming into the case. I had to work the spindle backand forth about 5x before it came out. The gear was on so tight that the threads on the 5/8 inch threaded rod were starting to give out, and I had to straighten the flat bars a few times along the way.

Anyway, the spindlefinally made it out. The next problem is getting the capture nut off the spindle. There’s a slot for some sort of spanner wrench (which I don’t have), and so far I can’t break it loose with a pin and a big hammer. It’s presently soaking in penetrating oil.

Holding the spindleis also a bit of a problem. I held it in a vise with soft jaws, trapping the key in the soft jaws to try to stop the shaft from turning. The grip was some what marginal.

Any ideas for breaking the capture nut loose? I’m not aware of the name of the wrench used, but I think I need to get one before I do any more damage to the slot in the capture nut.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, TomKro

Spindle Puller Setup on Logan Model 200.jpg
 
Did you ever get the nut off?
Can you put the spindle in some soft jaws, and bump the nut loose with a punch in a air hammer?
 
mrbreezeet1:

No luck getting the nut off yet. I now have the proper spanner wrench, and I re-installed the rear gear to grip the assembly in a vise, but still had problems. I had the gear gripped with soft jaws, but my soft jaws are way too soft (almost rubbery), and just can't hold things in place. I made a trip to the local hardware store to look for some copper or lead sheet for the vise, but I haven't found anything yet. I guess I'll just wrap the jaws in a thick layer of aluminum tape and give it another try.

Hadn't thought of using an air hammer. I'll try again with just the wrench, and maybe just a little heat on the edge of the collar. If that doesn't do the trick, I know I have a worn out air chisel that maybe can be ground a little to fit the slot. Thanks for the idea.

I used up most of this weekend on lawn work and taxes, but I think I hear Logan calling from the basement...

Thanks again, TomKro





Did you ever get the nut off?
Can you put the spindle in some soft jaws, and bump the nut loose with a punch in a air hammer?
 
Tom---I was reading your post and was wondering if you used the push in slide spindle lock (on front to the left of your id plate) ? that is what I use to lock the spindle to knock the chuck loose. to unlock it you have to push the release spring on bottom of slide up as you pull the handle out. I noticed that no one else mentioned that as a spindle lock is why I'm mentioning it. I use it also to lock the spindle when I spin mount my chuck. Dave I really like my logan 200
 
Tom---I was reading your post and was wondering if you used the push in slide spindle lock (on front to the left of your id plate) ? that is what I use to lock the spindle to knock the chuck loose. to unlock it you have to push the release spring on bottom of slide up as you pull the handle out. I noticed that no one else mentioned that as a spindle lock is why I'm mentioning it. I use it also to lock the spindle when I spin mount my chuck. Dave I really like my logan 200

Are you sure your not talking about engaging the back gear with the bull gear still locked to the cone pulley?
 
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