Is This Wired For 110 Or 220?

I


It appears that the start circuit wiring is coming from the lathe wiring it may not start going direct to the motor with 220, if it doesn't. Do not leave the power on for more then a second or you could burn out the run winding.

I have made the assumption that you have tried the lathe in both directions and that it starts both ways.

If three and two are not connected you would not get any movement but just a "humm" from the start winding.

Just a question, what speed are you trying to run this at , is it belt driven and is it possible that the lack of torque is slippage in the belts etc. From everything you have shown it looks to me that it should be OK. Electrically Maybe ULMA DOC will see something we are missing, you might PM him and ask him to look at it. This may need a new set of eyes.

Art B

I've been running it wired this way for a few weeks now. Runs in both directions just not much torque so I don't think it's running on the start circuit. It's not belt slippage because I can hear the motor slow down when taking a cut. In fact first thing in the morning when the head stock oil is cold it takes as much as 30 seconds to get up to top speed. As the oil warms up it ramps up much quicker.

Edit: I run in in the low range which gives me a top speed of about 800 rpm. Taking a .030" DOC with a feed rate of .008" per revolution on 2" mild steel round just about stalls the motor. Didn't have this problem when it was wired for 110v service.
Tom S.
 
I


It appears that the start circuit wiring is coming from the lathe wiring it may not start going direct to the motor with 220, if it doesn't. Do not leave the power on for more then a second or you could burn out the run winding.



Art B

Start circuit doesn't come from the control panel - only the direction is determined from the panel. Centrifugal switch is shown on motor connection diagram. If the motor is connected per the diagram he'll be fine testing it
 
what I was seeing in the wiring diagrams was that the power to terminal A1 for the start winding was coming in from the control panel, if for some reason it was going through a relay it wouldn't necessarily have continuous power and it wouldn't start.

On the torque question i was trying to cover all possibilities. What was the reasoning for going to 220 if 110 was working OK.
 
what I was seeing in the wiring diagrams was that the power to terminal A1 for the start winding was coming in from the control panel, if for some reason it was going through a relay it wouldn't necessarily have continuous power and it wouldn't start.

On the torque question i was trying to cover all possibilities. What was the reasoning for going to 220 if 110 was working OK.

I went with 220v because I wanted to move my lathe a bit further away from my CNC mill. Needed a bit more room to maneuver. As it was I had a long cord running to the nearest 110v outlet. Moving the lathe put it closer to a 220v outlet. Changing wiring in the pecker head was a lot simpler than making up a longer cord. Or so I thought.

Tom S.
 
I'll check it in the morning.

Tom S.

I'll physically check the connections but according to my wiring diagram #2, #3, and #A2 are connected together.

Tom S.
 
I'll physically check the connections but according to my wiring diagram #2, #3, and #A2 are connected together.

Tom S.

From what I can see in the pictures etc. they are connected correctly, for it to start and run it almost needs to be wired right, so maybe its time to look at other possibilities besides the motor wiring.

Have you run anything else on that 220Vac plug. It might be possible that the wiring to the plug has problems and the voltage under load is dropping way down, the only way that would show up is voltage checking either during startup or under load.

art B
 
As I said in my original post I did install a new reversing contactor at the same time as I changed over to 220v. I'm going to check to make sure the wiring is per the wiring diagram but could there be something there, e.g. internal circuits different than the original contactor?

Tom S.
 
As I said in my original post I did install a new reversing contactor at the same time as I changed over to 220v. I'm going to check to make sure the wiring is per the wiring diagram but could there be something there, e.g. internal circuits different than the original contactor?

Tom S.
its possible, but because it is starting in either direction and running the wiring for 240 almost has to be right. The only other thing I can think of is if the start switch in the motor isn't opening, the motor would get very hot if that was the case and draw a lot of current. It would also be a major coincidence for that to go bad at the same time as the change in wiring.

Art b
 
I verified that #2, #3 and #A2 are connected together. I also went back over the electric box wiring, specifically the contactors, because of changing out the reversing contactor at the same time as changing over to 220v operation. I did find something but not sure it resolves the issue at hand.

Look at the revised diagram attached below. You note that the transformer wiring is different. This change reflects the change from 110v input power to 220v input power. That's OK and understandable. Take a look at the left (reversing) contactor. Note the two jumpers. These weren't on the diagram that was attached to my first post. I don't think this is the problem as the jumpers allow input power to flow from the reversing contactor to the forward contactor. Am I off base on this?

Tom S.
 

Attachments

  • Electric Box Wiring Diagram Revised 12-16-2016.pdf
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From what I can see in the pictures etc. they are connected correctly, for it to start and run it almost needs to be wired right, so maybe its time to look at other possibilities besides the motor wiring.

Have you run anything else on that 220Vac plug. It might be possible that the wiring to the plug has problems and the voltage under load is dropping way down, the only way that would show up is voltage checking either during startup or under load.

art B

The lathe is plugged into my welder outlet. It's single use though. I can't weld and run the lathe at the same time. I'll check voltage under load and see what happens.

Tom S.
 
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