My Ballscrew Conversion

DMS

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I have posted about this in other threads, but I have wrapped up this project, so it has come time to lay my cards on the table so to speak. Nearly two years ago I purchased a used Bridgeport clone with the intention of performing a CNC conversion. I got it up and running in a very basic way within a few months but the X and Y axes were still running the stock acme screws. Earlier this year I started a project to replace the stock screws with ballscrews, mainly to reduce backlash. Rather than going with an off the shelf kit (which I wasn't sure would work), decided to machine everything myself. I purchased some screw stock from McMaster and some cheap ballnuts. The cost was low enough that I figured if I screwed up (haha) that I wouldn't be out much $$, and if it worked, I would have saved about a thousand bucks and gained a fair amount of experience. I'm happy to say things worked out well. What follows will be a brief walkthrough of the parts involved. I didn't take many "action" shots unfortunately.

The first part I worked on was the Y axis mount. This started life as a large chunk of 6061 I had sitting around. I roughed out the shape on the mill and finished the bearing bores on the lathe and got a decent (medium) press fit. The bearings were open, so the mount was designed for double lip seals on both sides. The hole assembly was packed with grease and the retainer on the front holds the whole thing together. Here is a view of the whole thing assembled, with the already machined Y axis screw in place.
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Here it is installed on the machine. The motor mounts are the same ones I have been using since I started, just 1/2" 6061.
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After gaining a little confidence with the Y axis, I purchased a 5 foot section of screw stock and 2 more ballnuts for the Y axis. I also purchased a big chunk of hot rolled steel and some DOM tubing for the yoke. The original yoke on the machine used bronze nuts, and was not going to accept the ballnuts, so I had to fabricate a new one. I did this in 3 sections, 2 large pieces made from the HRS, connected with a piece DOM tubing using my MIG welder.

Here you can see the completed yoke from the top side. As you can see, it is a pretty simple design. The "bulge" in the middle is there to acomidate the pre-load nut. More about that later. I am using square ballnuts, so the channel is square, and the ballnuts just slide right in. A flange attached to the ballnuts screws into the yoke.
20130825_134706.jpg

Here is a test fit with the ballnuts and the yoke. The large white piece is the preload nut.
20130825_134744.jpg

The yoke is installed way down in the belly of the beast. It requires that the table be removed and both the X and Y screws. I got very good at removing the table. I think I had it down to about 15 minutes. Each time I needed to take measurements, or test for fit, I had to tear things apart.
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Here is a shot with the X axis nut installed as well. You may notice that 2 of the corners are clipped off. Well, as it happens, the yoke has to be installed rotated 90degrees, fed down into the cavity, and then rotated 90degrees to the final position. I didn't really test this until final assembly and it wouldn't go. I had to pull it back out, dog-ear the corners with a hacksaw and files, and try again. Looks almost like I planned it. In this shot you can also see the felt wipers and their retainers. These are just 3/16" soft white felt with holes cut slightly undersized for the screw minor diameter. The felt is soft enough to conform to the screw, and makes a really nice seal. The nuts are packed with the same grease as the ballscrew supports. Rather than purchase pre-loaded ballnuts from the manufacturer for an obscene price, I purchased to non-preloaded nuts and made my own pre-loaded nuts. They worked out really well. The white piece is a chunk of delrin, threaded to match the ballnut. The opposite end has a step to accommodation 12 belleville washers stacked 6/6 (like this >>>>>><<<<<<) for a total preload of about 200lbs. This was tightened against the adjacent nut until it nearly bottomed out.
20131020_194122.jpg

The last part was X axis mount. There are 2 mounts on the table, I re-manufactured the "fixed" mount, and used the stock "simple" mount. Here is a picture of the stock mount. It was cast iron, and used tapered roller bearings with a jam nut and start washer arrangement for pre-load. Not bad, but I wanted better. The stock mount is about 5/8" thick.
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Here is my replacement mount. It is 1.5" 6061. It is a very similar design to the Y axis mount, using the same bearings and seals. It is actually 2 pieces; the cylindrical portion screws into the flange, and mates with a shallow taper. Threads are locked with blue lock-tite.
20131104_193722.jpg

Another shot from the side showing the beefiness of the thing. It is very solid. You can also see the jam nut that fixes the X axis screw.
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After initial assembly it took a little tweaking to get things working as I wanted, but after a couple hours of tuning, I made a test pass cutting a circle in aluminum circularity with 0.0015, which I am pretty happy with.

20130825_134654.jpg 20130825_134706.jpg 20131020_185447.jpg 20131020_194122.jpg 20130825_134758.jpg 20131104_193735.jpg 20131104_193722.jpg 20131104_193710.jpg 20130825_134744.jpg
 
This is great. CNC is on my list for my mill but too many projects ahead of it for now. I'll keep track of this for ideas when it comes time.
Dave
 
Are the ball nuts Pre packed, or are they hooked up to the lubrication system?
It looks as if you've done a super job on this.
 
Very nice, Can you go a little more in depth on the anti back lash nut design? I didn't quite follow your description.
What diameter and pitch screw did you go with?

Brian
 
Very nice work. I'll bet it runs as good as it looks!:man:
 
Are your ball nuts providing preload? Tim

Yes, I built my own pre-loaded nuts out of 2 regular nuts. If you look at the picture of the X nut in place, there is a description. Basically there is a stack of belleville springs that forces the 2 nuts apart and provides preload. The delrin adjusting nut limits the total amount of movement if loads exceed the pre-load. The pre-load should be around 210lbs (calculated, not measured), so it will need to be a pretty heavy cut to reach that.

- - - Updated - - -

Are the ball nuts Pre packed, or are they hooked up to the lubrication system?
It looks as if you've done a super job on this.

Thanks for the compliment, I'm pretty happy with how things came out. The nuts are pre-packed. There is also a grease zerk on the front to top them off. I was initially planning on connecting things to the one shot oiler, but after some research found that many folks prefer grease in this arrangement. It was also easier than trying to route the lube tubs to the bottom nut.
 
Very nice, Can you go a little more in depth on the anti back lash nut design? I didn't quite follow your description.
What diameter and pitch screw did you go with?

Brian

The screw is 1 inch diameter with 0.25" pitch. The main reason I chose it was the cost of the ballnuts that matched. The pre-loaded nut is a pretty simple design consisting of two standard nuts, an adjuster, and a stack of belleville disk springs. The nuts are mounted front to back, with the disk springs and adjust in between. Other implementations I have seen for this type of configuration use a key or pin between the two nuts to prevent them from rotating relative to one another. Because the I am using square nuts, I was able to use square channels in the yoke to serve this purpose. When mounted, one of the nuts is attached to a flange that then mounts to the yoke. The other nut is free to move (if it can overcome the pre-load).
 
Very nice!
If you don't mind my asking about how much in materials for both axis did it run you for the screws and ball nuts.

I had debated a few years back buying the ball screw package until I saw the price, ouch.
 
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