Black oxide coating

John, I mentioned the Manganese in an earlier post. I believe the saltpeter method described by benmychree is unrelated to the manganese phosphate I use. It is also done with Zinc instead of Manganese, but I prefer the Manganese.
 
John, I mentioned the Manganese in an earlier post. I believe the saltpeter method described by benmychree is unrelated to the manganese phosphate I use. It is also done with Zinc instead of Manganese, but I prefer the Manganese.

All the references to the molten nitrate method that I found in a Google search mention manganese dioxide, which is why I asked. I'm familiar with the Parkerizing process which uses phosphoric acid and either manganese or zinc.
 
I haven't seen that. I buy my Manganese dioxide from a pottery supplier.....cheap in powder form, dissolves in hot acid.
 
The very best method for bluing and blackening is to take a 50/50 mixture of sodiun nitrate and potassium nitrate and melt it in a container to between 600 and 650 degrees; you simply immerse the item in the bath until the desired color is reached, which is a matter of minutes. The part need not be clean, as the nitrate salts will burn off any oil or fingerprints that may be present, and this makes a very rust resistant finish. This was titled US Armory method of bluing in an American Machinist technical article. I first saw that it worked when I was doing heat treating in the shop where I apprenticed back in the 1960s, where they used a tempering bath that had a set point controller to regulate bath heat; I noted that articles that were ground after tempering and may have been tested as being over the desired hardness and subsequently re tempered at the higher temperature came out of the bath with the colored finish; this happens while the piece is under the surface of the bath, and has nothing to do with temper colors that would be created by exposure with the air when heated. More recently I found the "recipe" in an American Machinist Shop Notes article. When my apprenticeship shop closed (Kaiser Steel Napa Plant) I boughtall the heat treating equiptment including about 1/2 barrel if the salt mixture. This mixture is the lowest melting salt mixture known, it will stay liquid down to about 275 deg. F.

Is this brew very toxic, safety precautions? Do the salts then solidify on cooling to be reused? I assume this is categorized as toxic waste when deposing .

thanks, Brian
 
A timely post guys. Im building a set of cherry kitchen cabinets and the client wants black hardware. Plain butt hinges for flush mount doors appear to be none existent in black. I just ordered the Caswell kit, will sand blast the brass coloured hinges and blacken.
Thanks
Greg
 
Ok, finally have a little time to post about the black oxide juice...

I'm not particularly fond of the wedge style mill clamps and don't like fiddling with the little stepped wedges. I have another CNC job coming up that needs some special clamps so, I made these out of 4150 alloy drops. 4150 is a super alloy tool steel that's often used for pneumatic jack hammer tips. When you bring it up to Rockwell 50, it's like kryptonite. These were milled in the HR as-is condition and you need to be careful as, it will work-harden in a heartbeat and it will immediately make carbide cry like a baby. Anyhow these two little pieces took 10 minutes each to turn-out on the CNC machine. Notice that the hole is tapered and the top and feet are rounded to allow it to pivot.

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While I was at it, I made a bunch of T-slot nuts. I bought this pre-threaded rod and a bag of torque nuts which are 4140 heat treated, grade 12.9. The rod is not treated and the nuts were already black oxide treated.

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The etching solution contains the minerals to form the oxide. Mix it with distilled water in clean containers. I mix it 1:3 and it can be reused many times.

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I warm the parts in a toaster oven to about 130 degrees or so. I previously heat treated the parts to Rockwell 45 and sandblasted them afterward. After sandblasting, the parts are only handled with gloves on. Skin oil will leave fingerprints and the oxide solution won't etch. Not much to see here... Just a handful of stuff...

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Dunk them in a clean tray and swish it around for a few minutes. They start turning black right away. This metal is heat treated and it takes longer than non-treated parts. Sometimes they turn an orange-rust color but, it all turns black later on. After soaking them I put them back on the stainless steel foil and heated in the toaster oven at very low heat -maybe 150F, until they are dry.


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Finally, you just wipe the sealer on. It's a penetrating oil that smells a lot like linseed oil. The parts turn a nice rich black color. As you can see, it doesn't look much different than the store-bought nuts. After the sealer goes on, let them dry in standing air or put them back in the toaster at very low heat.

-And that's that...

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... And this was a little visitor I had yesterday while making the table clamps. The little one got it's feet tangled in the web of the welcome mat. He struggled to get loose and the situation needed intervention. He didn't mind posing for a photo first... He's fine now and lives in the tree next to the front porch.

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-And that's that!

Ray

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A timely post guys. Im building a set of cherry kitchen cabinets and the client wants black hardware. Plain butt hinges for flush mount doors appear to be none existent in black. I just ordered the Caswell kit, will sand blast the brass coloured hinges and blacken.
Thanks
Greg

Greg,

I know that the Caswell place has many types of staining and oxidizing products. Maybe check to see if they have something to stain brass.

I used their aluminum kit and it worked well too. In all fairness to myself, I stopped doing AL anodizing as it's just too time consuming, I can barely break-even money wise on it and, I'm not fond of warm vats of sulphuric acid inside the shop. The fumes carry sulfur and anything nearby eventually starts to rust.


Ray
 
A timely post guys. Im building a set of cherry kitchen cabinets and the client wants black hardware. Plain butt hinges for flush mount doors appear to be none existent in black. I just ordered the Caswell kit, will sand blast the brass coloured hinges and blacken.
Thanks
Greg

Brownells has a product called Brass Black.
Don't know what chemicals are in it.
 
Nice write up Ray.I will have to get some of that stuff.
 
These are the hardware store variety brass coloured steel hinges. Will sandblast them to get back to raw steel.
Think it was 25 pair of hinges for the complete set of cabinets, at what they charge for solid brass hinges now, these will work fine.
The first two sections of the cabinets. (pardon my deviation from metal to the dark side)
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Thanks
Greg

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