Just put a deposit down on a southbend lathe

Thoro said:
Look at the apron as the easy and fun part. What will likely try your patience is the gearbox. Only prime the the gearbox inside and out and give it a good coat of paint inside before reassembly. You WILL scratch it up.

Your gear box plate looks fine! Clean it up, repaint it and reveal the embossed lettering and you're in good shape. It's not dented up is it?
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The problem with the Apron is it seems like there is a lot of little nooks and crannies for grease to hide. I am thinking I will get as much out as I can with brush than pressure wash the rest. I have also had good luck using Scolding hot water with Dawn dish soap, simple green and evaporate rust to keep it from rusting while I scrub it with a maroon scotch bright pad. I than immediately rinse it with paint thinner and wipe it down with blue shop towel. I mask off all the machine surfaces and paint with Rustoleom machine paint in the rattle can.


As far as the ways I wont be doing any scraping mainly because I have owned this for almost a year now and I just want to get making parts. I also dont have the tools nor really the money to buy them at this point.
 
I used electrolysis to clean and strip almost everything. It even cut the grease. Soaking it in hot water with a detergent and then power washing it would probably work quite well. . I didn't worry about painting the inside of the apron.... It's going to be coated with oil always anyway
 
Thoro said:
I used electrolysis to clean and strip almost everything. It even cut the grease. Soaking it in hot water with a detergent and then power washing it would probably work quite well. . I didn't worry about painting the inside of the apron.... It's going to be coated with oil always anyway
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I may try the electrolysis method just so it's a one step process. I was also thinking of doing the HOT TSP method as well. Tractor Supply has a tub big enough to do the entire lath bed I just wonder how the galvanized will react.
 
Joe0121 said:
I may try the electrolysis method just so it's a one step process. I was also thinking of doing the HOT TSP method as well. Tractor Supply has a tub big enough to do the entire lath bed I just wonder how the galvanized will react.
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Which portion are you concerned about that is galvanized? I don't believe that the bed is galvanized anywhere.... Some of the knobs may be Chrome plated. Watch out. The pulley cone cover is aluminum. (i made that mistake) so too might be the bull gear plunger flip guard if you have one.
 
Thoro said:
Which portion are you concerned about that is galvanized? I don't believe that the bed is galvanized anywhere.... Some of the knobs may be Chrome plated. Watch out. The pulley cone cover is aluminum. (i made that mistake) so too might be the bull gear plunger flip guard if you have one.
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Than stock pan I am using to do the process is galvanized.
 
Oh, well yeah, you want to use a plastic tub for sure! It will eat a metal container in no time
 
Thoro said:
Oh, well yeah, you want to use a plastic tub for sure! It will eat a metal container in no time
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Yeah I'm buying some washing Soda today and going to try the Electrolysis this evening. The taper pin that holds the longitudinal feed gear simply will not budge so looks like ill have to work around that. I don't want to risk breaking it or having to drill it to ge it out so it will likely just stay in the apron and ill have to clean and paint around it.
 
Hey Joe, i'm sure you have found this by now,but the wewilliams site is very good for info as is steve wells' site. A gentleman by the name of Jim Krull makes new plates but yours looks pretty good as it is,it should clean up fine. (mine was wasted on my 10L and I bought it and the lube plate from Jim, real nice guy to deal with) http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...uth-bend-links-sources-parts-info-etc-129769/ Hope this helps, Jim
 
Tried the Electrolysis rust removal. Seems to work well. Still gonna power wash the apron to get all the crud out.
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Some parts as they came out
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jmm03 said:
Hey Joe, i'm sure you have found this by now,but the wewilliams site is very good for info as is steve wells' site. A gentleman by the name of Jim Krull makes new plates but yours looks pretty good as it is,it should clean up fine. (mine was wasted on my 10L and I bought it and the lube plate from Jim, real nice guy to deal with) http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...uth-bend-links-sources-parts-info-etc-129769/ Hope this helps, Jim
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Thanls for the info. I will check it out for sure.
 
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