Vfd Switches And Controls

I buy lots of pots, if I were going to go cheaper I have PEC stainless pots in stock. I went with the Eaton/Cutler Hammer mostly because that's what I wanted. It was ready to install, IP 66 rated, has a built in legend plate. Its operation is smoooooooth with a hydraulic like feel and has a good 270 degrees of rotation. I rewarded myself with an excellent pot, hey I'm worth it.
 
Dealers Electric in NJ has good prices on VFD's and motors, and they're an alright bunch of guys. As for the POT, your VFD manual should state what resistance to use. My JNEV-101-H1 uses a 10k POT. This gives me very fine, almost too fine really, speed control.
 
mksj said:
E-Stop can be set-up with NC that breaks the signal power 24V or NO that when engaged directs the VFD to stop. I actually use both on mine as a dual safety stop.
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mksj - When you say you have both, does that mean 1 separate stop NO switch connected to the VFD control, and a separate NC E-Stop to break the signal? That was roughly my plan as it sits in my head. I am fairly new to wiring in switches so still tyring to get my head around what I want, and integrate it into a plan. After going back and looking at some of the regular stop switches, most seem to be NC, not NO. EStop were almost all NC.

I was going to get that Pot JimDawson linked from AutomationDirect. Mostly because it would fit nicely into a 22mm enclosure along with the rest of the control box, and they have all the other switches, controls and a 5 hole enclosure.

My lathe (South Bend 9A) doesn't currently have power and is in 1000 pieces after being torn down, cleaned, painted and polished. I am re-wiring it from scratch, adding a new 3ph motor/VFD. So, this is all a from scratch scenario.
 
Regarding the E-Stop/switches, these are almost all modular so you can add different switch blocks as need. Yes, most simple E-Stops are NC, as there purpose is to break the circuit/power. They come in lots of configurations, many of the 30mm have multiple switch blocks in their basic configuration. I like most of the 22mm Automation Direct switches, the only ones that are somewhat weak (lens button breaks) are their E-Stops, so recommend the Idec 22mm or other brand (or get some extra lens for a few dollars). They sell additional switch blocks for their switches, just be aware of the total depth of the switch when buying an enclosure (lighted switches are ~3" in depth). The Idec E-Stop listed below is what I use in my lathe, it comes with a NC and NO. It also has a 24V LED (AC/DC) which can be wired separately, I use it as a power indicator. Below is an example of some basic switches/parts for a build, but type/color/configuration will change by build/costs. Most of my builds these days uses a separate small power supply to drive a main power latching relay and direction relays. I just did a build for someone with the same VFD, he did not have a spindle switch and this VFD does not have maintained direction inputs that work off of momentary switches.

I use the same pot in many builds that Jim recommends, works well and is "reasonable" for the build quality.

So I assume you have no spindle switch and you want to use momentary push button switches for direction and stop. If so, you need to add latching relays to sustain direction when using this VFD. I would look at this build as an example of ideas. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/acer-trump-1236-vfd-conversion.32910/

If you have a basic idea of control type, location and what you want them to do, I can probably put a wiring schematic together that you can use as a starting point. I have a number of these in different configurations, kind of a PTA as every build has a different set of configurations/VFDs.

VFD switch configuration.jpg
 
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The 22mm Eaton/Cutler Hammer pot I chose. I later swapped the 10k pot out for a 1k which the VFD specified.
 
mksj - I ended up placing an order very close to what you suggested, except without a switch the jog specific function. I did go with Automation Direct's E-Stop, but will just see how it plays out. I am just a hobby guy, so it won't see too much heavy use. I guess I can replace it if the lens breaks.

Coolidge - very cool panel. Looks clean and slick.
 
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