The New South Bend 10K

Yeah but for the kind of money they want for a Taiwan SB you could buy this 5,000lb beast.

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I think the OP has already said he wants a small/lighter lathe. Not everyone wants or has a place for a 5000lb hunk of iron. :)
 
rwm said:
Thank you both for your input. Very helpful.
I can't understand why the 8K has such a larger spindle bore than the 10K. I was thinking for long gun work I could use a steady rest and work at the tailstock end.
R
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That is the primary reason I went with the 8k originally instead of the 10k even though it has the Norton secondary gearbox. I have done longer pistol barrels (longest so far has been 14") on the 8k but it's bore isn't big enough for heavier barrel long gun work. And using a steady has issues even though I've done it.
 
I would go with a Precision Matthews or used lathe before I spent what they want for a new SB, especially with that small a bore! That's crazy money for what you get, and I don't care if it's made in Taiwan in a supposed "higher" tiered shop.
 
Well, before seeing this, I had posted some questions about the new 1002 10k Griz. Wish I had seen this first. I probably would've bought the PM1127. Anyway, if anyone has a diagram on how to make a taper attachment to fit the newer 10k, I am all eyes. If anyone actually owns a newer 10k I would be interested in hearing about it. Thank you.
 
I just got it in my shop and it arrived with no switch, no centers and no chuck, oddly enough. Not even an owners manual. Supposed to have been a test/demo model. At least it came with the stand. So now I am waiting for parts. I wired it 110V temp. to test the motor. But the fit and finish of the machine, in general, looks pretty good. Very little back lash on all slides. I will have to measure the exact amount later. Otherwise Quiet and operates smoothly. It did not come with a splash back, as well. Easy fix, but would have been nice. The one thing that did throw me a bit was the cross feed direction. For some reason I was thinking forward would cause the cross feed to operate cutting toward the center. But this one operates away from center in forward gear. I really don't remember which way the vintage 10k I had went. Thanks for the link.
 
That manual for the lathe is on Grizzly's website here:

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/sb1002_m.pdf

So, you actually have one? How 'bout some pics and a review? There's practically zero information available on these lathes on the web.

On the original 10k, when you have the leadscrew turning in the normal direction (carriage to the headstock), when you engage the crossfeed it will move towards the operator.
 
A particularly aggravating thing about Grizzly is they seem to NEVER provide ANY information about the accuracy of most things they sell. This is especially annoying when it comes to lathe chucks,drill chucks,live centers,etc.. Makes me wonder if they are trying to HIDE this info from the customers.

I guess their customers are just supposed to be too ignorant to think to want info about these things.

I,for one,refuse to buy any such products where tolerances are a consideration. When I buy a chuck,I want to know if the expected runout is .003"(average Asian accuracy),or more(or,hopefully LESS!).

When I have bought lathes with D type spindles,I have sometimes gone over them with a good toolpost grinder,to make them perfect IN SITU,like Hardinge did with their taper nose HLVH's. But,that is not possible with threaded noses. The best you can do is buy chucks with separate back plates,and turn them true and to press fit diameter in the lathe. You could grind the tapered bore. That's about it.
 
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