Bi-metal Bandsaw Vs. Carbon Steel Blades

Note to self - get bi-metal band saw. I already broke two carbon blades in just few months and that is with hobby use. The 5x6 I have just turns a lot in short distance even when I set the knob to minimal cut size (to minimize the twist).
I welded one blade but have not tested it - I still have to heat it up and let it cool slowly so its not brittle in that weld spot.
The carbon steel blades do not, in my experience, break more easily: they just get dull faster.
 
If ANY blade is breaking prematurely,it is the WELD,not the blade. Or operator technique. And,do not expect "factory" welds to be perfect,either! I have had trouble with pre welded blades breaking too soon. The $128.00 blade I mentioned above was factory welded.

ONLY the TEETH on bi metal blades are HSS. The rest of the blade is ordinary carbon steel,and just as prone to the weld failing.

Breaking blades could also be because they are too tight,or the way the operator is starting a cut,or that the operator is cutting stock too small in width. Any number of causes for the weld to be breaking,other than the weld itself being defective.

When I start a cut,I VERY GENTLY lower the blade onto the stock,and keep the pressure light until the blade has fully entered the cut,so that several teeth are engaged.
 
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I've been using the same 8 tooth carbon steel blade my 7 x 12 horizontal saw came with a year ago. It still cuts fast and straight, although the quality of the finish on the cut has deteriorated. I bent it the other night and couldn't straighten it, so I replaced it with a 14 carbon steel blade. The old blade had a few broken teeth, although as I said, it was still cutting fast and straight. I curled it up for the recycle bin.


Maybe I could be considered a collector of junk of sorts but I save an old blade or two so I have some springy material if I need some. I have used up several blades over time
for various projects. Banding material I save a bit of as well because it is handy at times too. At today's scrap iron prices, the scraps I have are going to have to sit a while.
I'm running a bimetallic 10 foot 3/4 inch blade for about a year now and it shows no sign of failing. When teeth start to go, it's time to get a new blade in my opinion...
 
I'm a saver of junk also, cathead. I've just run out of room. I'm in junk culling mode now.
 
I'm a saver of junk also, cathead. I've just run out of room. I'm in junk culling mode now.

I know what you mean Franko, there comes a time when we have to cull out the herd so to speak.
 
I thought I would ask my question in this thread rather than starting a new one. I understand bi-metal is considered to be better. I am in the process of buying a horizontal saw. Most of my projects involve 3/16 to 1/4 wall tubing. I use anywhere from 1" square to 6x3x3/16 rectangular. Can a 1/2 inch blade handle this or is a 3/4 inch blade worth the extra cost of a saw? I am not in a production situation but don't want to sit around all day watching a saw cut 3x3x1/4 tubing. I jsut can't see a 1/2 inch blade holding up to that for long.
 
I use all the time don't waste money on carbon steel I cut 3" stainless steel try that with cheep carbon steel and you can change to brass alum and back to steel no problem


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I don't use stainless much at all,being a museum tool maker. I am usually doing repairs and missing parts on antique mechanical items,and some modern,but not stainless things. So,can't speak for carbon steel on stainless. No doubt stainless is a LOT tougher on blades. But,I use 1/2" carbon blades on W1 and 01 drill rod),A2,D2,mild steel,brass and aluminum. It works fine. I do have a bunch of bi metal blades I use on my Roll In Saw. They came with the saw when I bought it used. From the chips in the saw(which was in nearly new condition),it was only ever used to cut plastic before I got it. But new,those bi metals cost about $40.00 each.

I used a Roll In clone at the toolmaker's Shop. It was o.k.,but not as heavy as the real Roll In,so the saw was more inclined to "jump" a bit rolling into the metal if you cut too fast. The saw part rolls down an inclined ramp,which makes a natural "power feed" from gravity(which is VERY reliable!) The clone was a Wilton/Jet which cost less than a real Roll In.

When I was still at Williamsburg,I had to cut the "hot top" off of a bronze cannon they managed to cast. The cannon was cast bottom down. There was about 12" extra metal beyond the muzzle where the sand and crud could gather,leaving the main body cleaner. I can tell you that cutting through that metal was DEATH on bi metal blades. But,the director wanted the silly thing cut off anyway. I think I wasted about 5 expensive bi metals getting through about 6 or 7" of the dirty bronze. I retired before they tried boring the hole in the cannon. They bored the hole even in the old days. Made for a stronger casting. Must have taken forever
with only carbon tooling and wooden machinery.
 
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I thought I would ask my question in this thread rather than starting a new one. I understand bi-metal is considered to be better. I am in the process of buying a horizontal saw. Most of my projects involve 3/16 to 1/4 wall tubing. I use anywhere from 1" square to 6x3x3/16 rectangular. Can a 1/2 inch blade handle this or is a 3/4 inch blade worth the extra cost of a saw? I am not in a production situation but don't want to sit around all day watching a saw cut 3x3x1/4 tubing. I jsut can't see a 1/2 inch blade holding up to that for long.

I've owned both the 4x6 and 7x11 sized Jet saws and would recommend the 7x11 if you can afford the extra cost. The 4x6 saws require a lot more fiddling to get them to work decent and cut straight. That was the main reason I recently sold mine and moved up to the bigger saw. It cut great right out of the box with only minor adjustment to get a near prefect cut.
 
Had a recent cost saving surprise when cutting bed frame angle-iron (which was full of hardened sections that instantly dulled the blades) eat my supply of 18/w tooth blades. In the pinch for time, I bought 64 1/2" Bi-Metal blades from the local Harbor Freight (As a rule I buy only USA made cutting tools). They were were cheaper than the carbon steel Starrett blades I was buying from ENCO. Expecting to go through them like water I bought the 6 they had in stock. No regrets! They have shown to be surprisingly durable with 2 doing the work of 7 Starrett carbon steel blades, eating through the hard spots with ease. When I run out of this supply, I'll continue to buy them.
 
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