Compare Mill,index Mill Cutters , Metal Removal Increments

I have a 2 fold Q those who perhaps have the new PM 25MV ( Variable speed new head belt design) and alos those who have a PM 932M. Mill


Yes I know comparing Clementine’s to Oranges is like comparing BHP to china HP to Taiw HP to New USA to Good ole USA HP . NOT THE SAME IN ANY WAY

Soooo. taken in consideration I would like to ask about HP regarding low end toque and machine capabilities not rpm feed and speed. Keeping that in mind .


Note: On my New PM25 MV I have only drilled but a few holes perhaps tapped ect.... and took off .030-040 from parts still not sue of machines capabilities and if in fact it can handle the new 1" index able mill cutters. I recently purchased. Using RNMG SNMG TNMG style inserts


Those who own owned PM 25MV ( Variable speed new head belt design) what type of depth and metal removal increments are we talking about that my current machine is capable of? lets say mild steel and 6062 Alum?


And same question would apply for the 932M Mill with the China made 1.5 HP motor?



Id really like to hear some feedback to help me make big decision if im gona stay where im at else sacrifice BIG time to upgrade .Already way over budget and still not done with machine Purchasing. Buying a New 10x22 and tooling next month .


Thanks again

kennyv said:

Already way over budget and still not done with machine Purchasing.

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I resemble that remark......

-brino

Guess maybe im gona be selling my Drum set to upgrade mill

little snip it from another post on my band saw project Pl excuse duble pots if ya read that one

Btw I tried out the new mill and its slows me down up and down up and down (limited quill travel ) now I dunno im realy thinkin considering the getting the next size mill . Was just able to pull off a 5/16 -18 taping operation. But had to finagle a bit to do it. Doesnt seem to have adequate toque even low speed with the magic Juice too ..

In short return the 1" index cutters. A) they are not designed for this type of machine, they are usually low clearance roughing type cutters that demand a machine capable of using this type of cutter. More than hp the factors that influence a machines ability to cut is the weight, sturdiness of the machine and its drive system. B) The DC motor is a wonderful thing but realize low speed as used in tapping are controlled by supplying lower voltage to the motor. Lower volts equals less power. So unless the machine has a low range gear box that lets you get the motor RPM up it will lack torque needed in tapping or other low speed operations. C) There is a reason why shops buy full size mills for even small work the sturdy frame adds strength which equals accuracy. Weight reduces vibration; look at what today is a small CNC machining center, and I mean 44-50" table machines, they are heavy cast iron and have large motors; this is needed because in order to stay competitive price wise you must cut fast and hard all the time. This just can not be done on a machine that shakes across the floor when you feed a 3/8 end mill at 50 IPM. This translates to the home shop in that we cut the same materials, maybe single parts or small runs and manual cutting but the same steel and alloys and are looking for the same accuracy and finish.

I absolutely have a small mill, however, its used to cut mostly plastic and phenolic and with cutters no larger than 1/4". When I need to pocket out a piece of 6061 4x6" and an inch and a quarter deep I go to the PM-935, it weighs a ton with vice, has an honest 3HP and a head made in Taiwan with grade 7 bearings. Its not huge, is a great machine, full featured for its size, and has a reasonable price tag.

I made the mistake of buying some "compromise" tools when I first set up but I re-learned what my grandfather taught me when I was 12, you get exactly what you pay for and tools, most of them anyway, are not a good place to "save" a bit of cash. I understand budget believe me. I waited 10 years to build a shop one can really call a shop and it meant going without things to get it. Ive no motorcycle, drive a car with 120k miles on it and eat peanut butter for lunch nearly every day. I buy cheap welding gloves and "import" tooling for most jobs, they work and when they are worn I have no issue with them going into the recycle bin. I spend money on the things that it has to be spent on and save it where I can. It works for me, maybe not for everyone. Thanks for allowing my rant, I hope it might help in what I know is a hard decision.

TakeDeadAim said:

In short return the 1" index cutters. A) they are not designed for this type of machine, they are usually low clearance roughing type cutters that demand a machine capable of using this type of cutter. More than hp the factors that influence a machines ability to cut is the weight, sturdiness of the machine and its drive system. B) The DC motor is a wonderful thing but realize low speed as used in tapping are controlled by supplying lower voltage to the motor. Lower volts equals less power. So unless the machine has a low range gear box that lets you get the motor RPM up it will lack torque needed in tapping or other low speed operations. .

I absolutely have a small mill, however, its used to cut mostly plastic and phenolic and with cutters no larger than 1/4". When I need to pocket out a piece of 6061 4x6" and an inch and a quarter deep I go to the PM-935, it weighs a ton with vice, has an honest 3HP and a head made in Taiwan with grade 7 bearings. Its not huge, is a great machine, full featured for its size, and has a reasonable price tag.
Thanks for allowing my rant, I hope it might help in what I know is a hard decision.

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" Yup" i knew that juts askin .......hopen maybe some one had a magic answer lol......thanks
so you have a 3hp on the PM 935 nice did you upgrade it? did you find the 1.5 2Hp was not adequate ? and why.
btw That's the machine im looking to upgrade to and be done and over with fiddling around in the garage.

Ohh My bad you said PM935 . so what yall think of PM932 will I at least be able to do tapping operations using the motor and quill down feed? Can I run it 110V or have to have a true 220V to get the low end ?
thanks again

The machine is a 220V motor, so no I would not think it could be run on 110V. Calling Matt at Quality Machine would answer that. You would know better what you need. All I can say is buy as large a machine as you can fit in your budget so that you can get your work done safely and with the results your looking for. Tapping is not done with power feed, the feed rates do not match the TPI so you will not get good threads. The usual method is to unlock the quill, start the tap then use jog or the on/off switch to run the tap in. Chuck the tap just tight enough so it will cut but will spin if it gets bound or bottoms.. Good luck

TakeDeadAim said:

The machine is a 220V motor, so no I would not think it could be run on 110V. Calling Matt at Quality Machine would answer that. You would know better what you need. All I can say is buy as large a machine as you can fit in your budget so that you can get your work done safely and with the results your looking for. Tapping is not done with power feed, the feed rates do not match the TPI so you will not get good threads. The usual method is to unlock the quill, start the tap then use jog or the on/off switch to run the tap in. Chuck the tap just tight enough so it will cut but will spin if it gets bound or bottoms.. Good luck

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thanks I prob have his return email sitting on my Home pc .. been busily on the run using lap top in garage dint set up email on it.

yea IK that's what I meant don't know why I said "power" Btw I use up to 3/4 NPT on the BP and works good.

Done deal talked w/Mattie today PM-932M-PDF 2 left one held its on its way..... im upgrading mill next week .Talked with Frankie tonight 2 hrs .......ole piazzao getting 220v for $250 don't need to upgrade box to 200 amps