Motor Starter Wiring

Curious to see how this turns out. I know it was discussed about bringing in 120 control voltage from another source and it needing to be properly labeled but don't forget about lockout tag out requirements if this is in an industrial setting (I assume since you are running the unit on 480 it IS in a business and not a home or back garage. Only other thing I will say about the call a professional, that is a specific description to a broader statement. There are a number of folks around that are plant or shop electricians that you may even know that would probably assist you in your endeavors for a six pack after the work is done. I have done many things for pizza and coke (I don't drink beer). Again I know it's been stated, but it's significant enough to repeat, 480 3 phase is unforgiving to mistakes. The reason is two fold. The first is that most people that tell you they got hit by 220 frankly didn't. It takes being across both phases in a residential setting to get hit by 220. So even if you were wiring up your drier or stove and it shocked you,,, it was only 120 volts. 480 is 277 to neutral, if it hits you, you will typically never know it. You're just gone. Some survive it, but it's typically always bad. You will never just say damn that hurt. Second as mentioned earlier is 480 will create a sustaining arc. I personally watched a guy wire up an exterior light that didn't have good coloring of the wire (it was a multivoltage light) he connected it for 277 and it should have been 480 wired. When the 600 amp fuse finally let go the panel that the breaker was in he flipped finally quit glowing red. The arc created from the breaker blowing open held and worked out of the breaker and to the buss bars in the panel. It vaporized the copper bus bars from the bottom of the panel where the breaker was at up to almost the input lugs. All the insulation for all the wiring in the panel was burnt away, and the repair ended up being close to $7000 to replace the panel, install an enclosure above the panel, cut and terminate all the conduit back to the enclosure and extend the wiring down to the new breaker panel. It of course could have been much worse. Of course it blew the light in question off the side of the building and into the parking lot. But that was minor. Finding a professional doesn't necessarily mean spend a bunch of money. And be aware of something else. Since you are most likely in an industrial setting and not in your back garage. Most zoning and code enforcement does require a licensed electrician to work on commercial electricity. And remember that it has to be wired that only one contactor can be closed at a time. If you allow both the forward and reverse contactor to close it WILL blow your control box right off the machine and tend to do all the other ugly stuff mentioned above.
 
I forgot to mention the other part, which applies to the case of it being a commercial facility and not a 480 generator in the back yard. All that was mentioned above was in a commercial 280000 square foot warehouse of a third party logistics business. That fuse that blew fed that panel and two others. We lost 3 days of productivity for a building that had 100 workers in it. Nothing of course worked because we didn't have power for 3 days while the repairs were made. The lost productivity number was close to 1 million dollars. The repair didn't cost what we would have earned in interest on the money that it cost the company in the time it took to get the repairs completed. And I do understand wanting to do it yourself. I do it myself including the very work that you are talking about. But I am not rusty, or forgetful of how it needs to be done. And although it's not been said here but only alluded to, I am not as careful with others feelings. If you are rusty, not sure, confused, confounded or otherwise not 100% confident that immediately after reading this that you can without assistance or instruction walk out to the machine and wire it without diagrams or assistance, you need to get help doing it. Not assistance from the internet. Not something you read on line and think will work,,,, absolute certainty that what you are doing is 100% correct, don't. You are quite frankly working with explosives, even though it's not a bomb, it will act like one if you do the wrong thing. You simply can't make a mistake, not a minor goof, not a oh, gee whiz I should have noticed that,,, not at all. At minimum it will cost you the machine, if you are lucky. If you aren't so lucky it will kill or maim you for life. Like I said it's a bomb. You can only connect the wires one way and it not explode. Any other way and boom. If you are not sure to the point that you would bet your life on it, and the safety of everyone there when you turn on the switch, don't.
 
Spot on Keith. Said better than I could ever do..............

Good advise at most any cost is better then the alternative. Especially in this case.
 
I'm getting smarter every time you guys post so feel free. BTW just an update but I think I need to get the motor rewound. Moving shops right now so it's on the back burner for a moment

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If you are ... not 100% confident that immediately after reading this that you can without assistance or instruction walk out to the machine and wire it without diagrams or assistance,
And if you are, refer to the diagrams anyway. I would not hire an electrician who would attempt to wire up a 480 controller without looking at the drawings.
 
Burned the thermal unit on one leg instantly. Haven't even had a chance to ohm it out

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Burned the thermal unit on one leg instantly. Haven't even had a chance to ohm it out

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Are you sure you have the 9 lead motor connected correctly?
It is very easy to get 1 and 7 , 5 and 6 confused with each other...I'm guilty of it...
 
Yes, it you burnt a thermal resistor immediately upon power up of the motor, you have one of three things. First is a phase to ground short. Second is an incorrectly wired motor, you said that's not the case, and lastly, you have very bad motor. I have tried starting locked motors a number of times before and they typically grunt and moan and kick the breaker or blow a fuse. For a thermal to open quickly it requires a LOT of current. I am curious, did the motor even begin to spin, grunt or show any signs of attempting to spin up?
 
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