South Bend 11x54 For Beginner?

Oh goody.... the spindle is surrounded by brass casing under each mount. I know not to mix up the shims under each mount but will opening it up make the clearance/tolerance/space different? I hate it when I make more work for myself but then I would probably have done it anyway...

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That's good that it has the plain brass or bronze bearings. Do you know what a lift test is? I would do a lift test on it before I took it apart to establish a baseline. Reassemble the spindle, bearings, and shims exactly as they where. Even in front to rear orientation. Mark the bearings with a sharpie, or a scribe if the are sticking out of the caps. Also make note of how much resistance the spindle has when turning by hand before you take it apart.
 
2015-10-13 15.54.48.jpg I'm looking up the lift test and I will do one. Here is the serial card for it. I'm a little disappointed that it doesn't have information for the motor. Working on figuring out the codes too... I see it doesn't list the taper attachment. I guess that means it was added at a later date?
 
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This is another example of the machines don't usually travel to far from where they were sold.
 
Almost 80 years of service so far .....Built to last? Oh Yeah!
 
Your SB is very similar to my SB (an 11" made in '39). There shouldn't be any problem if you pull the bearing caps to see what you have under there just don't mess up the shims when you do it. Now, there are a few things that are "unique" to the 11" SB that aren't on the card, the spindle nose is threaded 1 5/8" - 8 and also the through-hole of the spindle is 7/8". The proper collets for the 11" are the fairly rare "2s" collets. I have never found any used and while some new ones are available from Hardinge the price is such that you must really, really need one badly to consider it - http://shophardinge.com/productGrid.aspx?catID=1551

Finally, while not unique, the tailstock takes a #2 Morse taper as does the headstock (with proper adapter).

Hope you find that useful,

-Ron
 
Thanks, Ron! I've been waiting to take the bearing caps off but I suppose I might as well just do it. I have too many projects going at the same time right now, darn it! lol I haven't leveled it up yet, would that effect it when buttoning it back up?
I have done some preliminary research and I think this lathe was probably used in the textile mills around Dillon, SC. I know the original owner's Dad worked in the Mills. I have considered contacting the family and seeing if there might be a picture of the man using it. I am not sure if that's weird but in this day and age you never know.
 
Well, after pulling the drain plug out of the apron, I got about a tablespoon and a half of water but no oil. I filled it with penetrating oil then drained it again. The countershaft was empty but not dry. I filled every cap with PB Blaster and have used it liberally everywhere. Once I getit apart and cleaned and reassembled I will put in the correct oils. On to the spindle caps...

What is a good solvent for all around shop use and parts cleaning? I have a variety of non solvent degreasers but my 1937 Lathe Manual says to use kerosene. I don't have a parts washer per se. I had one of the harbor freight jobs once on my ranch in KS but it took up more space than anything else. I have been looking at this though - http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/jobsmart-portable-parts-washer-20-gal-tank-capacity
I'm fine with just soaking and scrubbing out of a 5 gallon bucket too. Anyway, I know there are as many preferences as there are stars above but something efficient and inexpensive would be good.
 
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kerosene & diesel fuel are good general clean up fluids
kerosene is slightly more flammable but both will penetrate as well as degrease
 
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