Now Here's A "diamond In The Rough" Project!

Well, here are a few photos to prove I am doing something. The base is painted, now working on the knee. Wish I had a sandblaster for getting into the crevices . . .







I've got an order in for some Vactra 2 (looks like Zoro has the best deal) so I can lubricate things after I get the vertical ways surface rust cleaned, and then assemble the knee into the base (once I get it painted). Are there instructions archived anywhere to provide instructions for installing the gib? It looks like a non-tapered gib to me. Cleaning up the saddle and table will be a challenge. Thank goodness for the engine crane - made moving things around by myself possible.





This is the "machine room" I partitioned off of the lower level of my barn this summer, where I hope to create a separate area for a few metal working tools. Still work to be done there too, but at least I've got the framing done and the lights hung. Now if I only had some heat down there . . .

You're being kind of stingy with the photos there, pal. We need to see photos of every single step in disassembly and reassembly.

Nothing special about the gib. Just bolt it loosely to the knee and lower the works onto the column. I like to set up an indicator and tighten the gib bolts until I can't cause the indicator to deflect by pushing/pulling at right angles to the ways. They'll probably seem too tight to you, but there should be some drag.


Were you able to find a serial number on the machine? (It's stamped on the top of the column way on later machines.)

Cal

OK, thanks. Once I paint the knee, I'll figure a way to install it onto the column. I thought I'd try supporting the knee from above, lowering it onto the z screw first screwed down into the base. Not sure how that is going to go . . . I'll be sure to take photos.

I'll get the serial number today when I get up to the farm.

It was suggested to use way oil on the lead screws . . . what about lubrication for the bearing (using Cal's photo) and the pinion gears for the z axis mechanism?

The serial number stamped on the column way, and also on the underside of the table, is 8142. I'd be very interested to know what that reveals about the machine.

Had a little time today to work on the VN - - is it worth separating the saddle and the table? With the x lead screw out, I have to move the table with the help of a bar clamp for cleaning, paint removal. Wondering if I should leave that pair alone . . .

My VN 1/2 was set up by the PO to hold a Bridgeport M (1/2 HP, 3P) head, and I plan to reassemble it in that fashion. But I see there is a very functional x feed mechanism in nice condition fastened to the underside of the table (OK, I'll post a photo tomorrow . . .)
I assume this was a regular part of the VN 1/2 design? Has anyone utilized this feature by adding an external motor . . . any postings on doing this? I may not get to this for awhile, but sure would be a great addition!

I would not install the elevating screw until the knee is safely mated with the vertical ways and suspended, for fear of damaging the screw. I would use an engine hoist.

Use way oil for everything. Get an oil can with a flexible snout and put a few drops on the gears from time to time. Oil the leadscrew and wipe down with a cloth dampened in way oil. The hole in the bearing block at the top of the elevation screw on a No. 12 has a brass oil cup screwed into it; not sure about a 1/2.

I would DEFINITELY separate the saddle and table. Clean, inspect and lubricate everything. Blow out all the oil passages with brake parts cleaner. If the table is hard to move by hand, you can loosen the gib until you can push it back and forth easily. There should be screws at either end that move the gib back and forth. Loosen one before you tighten the other. Tightening one screw will tighten the gib, the other one will loosen it. Take the screws out and remove the gib before you separate the table.

The feed mechanism is original. It was originally powered by pulleys and flat belts from the same power source as the rest of the machine.

The serial number isn't going to tell you much about a machine of that vintage unless you can find a old serial number reference book. The one used for the Kasunich site covers a newer serial number scheme. In the day your machine was built I think they used the same series of numbers for all machines. Starting around WWII they gave each machine series it's own 4-digit serial numbers with a model number prefix. No. 12 started at 12-5000. The fact that your serial number is only 4 digits suggests that it's a fairly old machine; I think that they were well into 5 digits by the time they switched to the new serial numbers.

Cal

Cal Haines said:

I would DEFINITELY separate the saddle and table. Clean, inspect and lubricate everything. Blow out all the oil passages with brake parts cleaner. If the table is hard to move by hand, you can loosen the gib until you can push it back and forth easily. There should be screws at either end that move the gib back and forth. Loosen one before you tighten the other. Tightening one screw will tighten the gib, the other one will loosen it. Take the screws out and remove the gib before you separate the table.

Cal

Click to expand...

Many thanks Cal for your insights and suggestions. However, as much as I agree and would like to separate the saddle and table, unless I can slide the table off of one end of the saddle ways by cranking on a bar clamp, I'm not sure I can remove the table. I'll try removing the surface rust on the ways & lubricating them, and see if I can un-mate them. I imagine I'll have to do this vertically. However . . . and I will go back up to the farm workshop and take a photo I can post tomorrow that shows this . . . the screws holding the gib are half underneath the table. There's no way I can loosen then let alone remove them. And if I did, how could I adjust them once the table and saddle are "re-united"? Seems like I need to leave them where they are. It seem to be a really strange design. . . .

Hey Cal <you're the only one following me on this . . .>

Considering the table covers half the gib screws, I don't know how you are supposed to adjust the table gib, unless you cantilever the table way out to access the screws . . . . which I can't see doing when the table is on the machine . . . anyway . . .







But with some ScotchBrite scouring and oiling of the table ways I was able to free up the table so I could slide the saddle horizontaly off of the upside-down table . . .






Once I get the saddle and table cleaned up and lubricated I think I'll be able to set them side-by-side on two horizontal surfaces of different heights, and slide them back together.

That's a pretty slick power feed mechanism built into the table - since the "working head" will be Bridgeport powered, I'd like to figure out a way to utilize the table feed with an auxiliary motor - maybe someone has done that somewhere . . .

The floor of my cow barn (now machine shop to be . . .) isn't level - was pitched to the "sluice gutter" - I just shoved 3/8" plywood shims under the base. Any problem with doing that? - considering when I jack up a barn to set replacement structural beams - it ends up on plywood shims - but of course a structure isn't powered and vibrating . . .

It looks like the gibs are set up differently that those on a No. 12. The No. 12's table gib moves sideways to tighten. The adjusting screws are on either end of the gib and on the front of the table, at the bottom.

I would get some adjustable machinery mounts and just level the machine up with them:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPAGE?PMPAGE=/specials/325-6627

I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a second motor to drive the feed mechanism. That's how it works on the No. 12.

Cal

Another step forward . . .





Took a while to figure out how to get the knee pinion gears installed . . . until I realized I had the keys reversed - the smaller gear's key is slightly shallower than the other. Ah well . .

Sure raises and lowers easily now. So what is the purpose of the gib screw with the handle? How is that used?

Paul

Paul_NJ said:

Sure raises and lowers easily now. So what is the purpose of the gib screw with the handle? How is that used?

Click to expand...

I'm guessing that is the knee lock.