Spray Or Brush Paint A Machine?

I use magic Tractor paint from Tractor supply. The hardener is extra then I put it on with foam brushes. take a bit to dry but looks great even fills in pits in the cast metal.
 
Nice one I will try to remember this, on second thought I will c&p it, put into a file I have with snippets like this. It is amazing what can be learned over on the net.. You mix it, what is the ratio, or you are painting the hardener over the color or base coat as if were a second coat?


Thank you...
 
You mix it 1/2 pint per 1 gallon of paint or 8:1 It gives you about 8 hours pot life on cool day and makes the paint much harder and little bit shinier
 
I prefer spray but some time I have to use brush
Note Use good paint that will wear with chips
I have try paints only to have to repaint in CA they have band all the good paints today good luck

Dave
 
Thanks everyone for all your tips and ideas and feedback. I have concluded I will try a high density foam roller and see if I like the result. If not, the HLVP gun will be used, but then I need to wait summer so I can be outside. Too messy

Great experience in this forum!


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This is the kit I bought - http://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-Hausfeld-34-Piece-Spray-Gun-Kit/12534872

After reading several reviews in forums, this looked like a good bet. I had never used one before, and I went from opening the box to shooting the paint in about an hour. And the results were far better than I had hoped.

If you use enamel, use the hardener. Otherwise it will take months to fully cure, especially in the cold. WEAR A MASK IF YOU DO USE IT
 
This is one spray gun that I use, if it gets messed up, throw it away and buy another. I paint a lot of my toys and projects with it. Price with shipping was like $27. Cheaper than Harbor freight. If I am mixin a 2 part paint, I use big syrniges to pull the paint/activator with them and mix. DP40 has a dwell time of 60 minutes before you spray, so pot life is different from dwell time. Tim

http://www.grizzly.com/products/HVLP-Mini-Spray-Gun-with-0-8mm-Tip/H8224
 
Another thing to consider is a good undercoat. The modern paint formulations are a lot different than even a few years ago. I just painted my old Dalton lathe with rustoleum and a brush- mostly because I already had the paint on hand. In researching possible other paints I noticed several of the one part urethane called for a metal specific primer on bare surfaces, then a urethane flat coat. Over which two layers of finish coat could be applied.

I did use a marine grade undercoat - from Interlux- on several parts. Mostly because the rattle can, high fill automotive primer, dissolved literally in an instant when I hit it with acetone. Couldn't believe how crummy this automotive stuff is.

The Interlux primer hardly showed any degradation with even a hard acetone scrub with a shop towel. So I am headed down that path for future jobs.

Glenn
 
When you guys prepare a machine for paint, what do you do with the old surface? I have a mill that looks pretty rough and some of the paint, and filler underneath, is soft from the coolant and way oil that it has seen in its life. I don't have the time to go over it thoroughly to clean it down to bare and repaint. Will a bit of bondo over the seriously cratered areas stick? Will the paint stick to it?
 
I have always used grey enamel porch and floor enamel, seriously. We had a ton of it kicking around where I worked and I used it on the machines I'd have to take apart and fix. Dries hard as a rock and as smooth as a baby's bottom, no brush marks what so ever.They were getting rid of 6 gallons and I gladly took it off their hands and use it on my home stuff.

My dad swore by porch & floor enamel. We painted everything with it including a crane truck.
 
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