Nuts And Bolts. How To Tell If They Are "cadmium" Plated?

schemer

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Hi guys,
I am over cautious when welding and know not to breathe in harmful fumes from galvanized metal etc, so I just buy and weld un-plated steel. Now when it comes to nuts and bolts I also use un-plated steel for safety when it has to be welded but you can't get grade 5 or grade 8 nuts and bolts un-plated (or maybe you can) so I was curious if anybody really knows it the "Gold" nuts and bolts at Tractor Supply are simply that color because of the alloy and hardening process, or they have yellow zinc coating, or if they still use CADMIUM to plate nuts and bolts? I know you can use muriatic acid or even vinegar to remove zinc but don't know if I should use the same method on cadmium if it is still in use.
Thanks,
schemer
 
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I just found this good reading...Seems I always find info right after I post! :disgust:

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/new_page_26.htm

Looks like I had it under control all along. Just weld un-plated steel or known safe steel and avoid any problems whatsoever. Typically I don't weld a lot of bolts anyhow, but I have a galvanized 5/8" shaft for an axle that I can clean off the zinc and weld, or use U-Bolts. :encourage:
schemer
 
Very wise man! Don't go welding unknown plated materials. I thought that CAD plated fasteners were a thing of my youth, i.e. ancient, but apparently they are still produced for the aerospace industry?

CHuck the grumpy old guy
 
Stuff from TSC isnt going to have Cd on it. The yellow on the grade 8s is just one of the zinc coatings.
Areospace is about it for nuts and bolts with Cd on them anymore.
I have seen Cd plated aluminium before, they were electrical boxes for the under frames of subway cars. Poor bastards had to weld them together (I was REALLY happy I couldn't weld Al back then...)
It looked slightly different from the other yellowish zinc coatings... Cant describe how but if you put the 2 next to each other it stands right out.
 
You can strip the plating easily with a little acid. Doesn't have to be strong if you have time. Don't oversoak, and neutralize after stripping.
 
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