I Want To Build This Cartridge Case Annealer

If the neck is over annealed the case is scrap anyway.
With many bottleneck rifle calibers, if the neck is properly annealed within a few seconds then removed from the heat source is it likely that residual heat will continue to anneal the neck and that enough heat will be conducted to the case head to anneal it? If as you say the case head is exposed to being heated during the heat treatment then it should be prevented by design features of the machine rather than be compensated for by water quench.
I have used water quench for handgun calibers but don't find it necessary for longer bottleneck cases.
I do agree.
I was more making the point about using quenching to stop annealing. Which as you point out should not be needed on a rifle cartridge that it not overheated. Some folks push the heat limit a bit, and others just try to be extra careful. My annealer is a welding glove and a propane torch, it works so well that building a motorized replacement keeps getting pushed back I favor of other projects. I only anneal rifle cases though, pistol cases just get loaded til they split.
 
I have heard of some reloaders standing the deprimed cases in a pan of water up to the necks, heating them with a propane torch and then tipping them over, one by one.
 
FYI, a BBQ rotisserie motor runs at approximately the speed you want an annealer to rotate at and already has a provided square drive !


A lot of the cheaper ones are DC and run on a wall wart which makes it easy to add speed control.
 
I have heard of some reloaders standing the deprimed cases in a pan of water up to the necks, heating them with a propane torch and then tipping them over, one by one.

Thats the way I started annealing handgun cases. Makes it possible to heat the necks with torch without risk of heating the case head. Once heating completed I tipped them over into the water mostly to be able to keep track of which ones were done.
 
To more accurately measure low rpm you need to use more magnets. The more magnets mounted the better the accuracy for low rpm motors. If also place them on the fastest moving parts. Of course you need something doing the counting & math to give you the reading.

If I use 10 magnets instead of one, would that show RPM x 10 much like a automobile tach is RPM x 1000?
 
Those tachs won't measure in 5-9 RPM range accurately, but you know the gear ratio in the gear box so put the tach pickup on the motor shaft rather than the geared output and do a little math.

I would probably use a cheap stepper motor/drive and a cheap pulse speed controller. That way you can use the stepper drive PPR as the ''gear box'' and the rpm is a function of the number of pulses per rotation. You could hook the tach to the pulse input to the stepper drive to read RPM or duration.


I have never tried to use a stepper motor. I have pulled them out of old printers and other scrapped machines, but never understood how to use them. How do you figure out the wiring?
 
Stepper motors are pretty simple, normally having 4 wires coming out of them.

These are just examples that I grabbed, not recommendations

http://www.dx.com/p/geeetech-3d-pri...-42yb-stepper-motor-black-370044#.VpqS67byvmg
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Some could have 6 or 8 wires, but these are not as common as the 4 wire. Ignore the wire colors on the diagram above, there is no standard as far as I can tell. In this case, BLK=A, ORG=/A (not A or A-) RED=B, and YEL = /B You would connect these wires to the corresponding terminals on the driver board. If you are not sure which is which, you can test the pairs with an ohmmeter. Then if you hook it up and it doesn't run, then swap the connection on one of the pairs.


Then all you have to do is add the power supply, normally 24V for small steppers, and a Stepper Speed control


http://www.dx.com/p/tb6560-3a-singl...ver-board-green-black-red-217142#.VpqR0rbyvmg
sku_217142_1.jpg


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stepper-mot...030663?hash=item4875256687:g:JooAAOSw0vBUgQ0v

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sku_370044_1.jpg

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sku_217142_1.jpg

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sku_370044_1.jpg

08YWiring(400x374).png

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Jim,

Thanks for that insight. I never would have found that motor controller. If I understand correctly, the board will run any 4 wire stepper motor with up to 2 amps per phase, and the stepper motor pulse generator sends a variable frequency pulse to the controller to regulate speed.

On the Pulse generator, I see 15-160v and 5-12v power terminals, what is the difference? Would I need access to the two red buttons in my application?

John
 
You are welcome. Just Google ''Stepper Motor Speed Controller'' and hundreds come up.

I suspect you could connect power from the PS to the 15-160 terminals, the other terminals would take a lower voltage, like from a wall wart. I think the red buttons might be forward and reverse. I didn't read the specs on that board, I just grabbed the picture and the link. There are a bunch of those available on Ebay, some even with wireless remote control, and others with a built in display of some kind, others in a box with external controls. Most under $20 I have a couple of those on the shelf, not that particular one, but I use them for testing systems.
 
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