Raising The Head On An Rf30

Ben Nevis

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I have always hated having to raise the head on my RF30, not only because you lose your reference, but mainly because of the physical effort required. I have thought about the various motorized versions, and may eventually do something like that, but in the meantime, adding a second handle to the crank works well.

When raising the head, with the crank at the top, pulling it down isn't too bad, but having to continue back up to the top(clockwise rotation) is much more difficult. It leaves you off balance with your arm stretched out, trying to lift the weight of the head.

So I thought to myself, Self, if there was another arm to the handle, you would be able to pull down on it instead of having to try to raise the other one.

I cut a piece of 1/4"x 1 1/2" steel 7" long, and drilled four 1/4" holes to attach it to the crank with 1/4-20 screws, and drilled a 3/8" hole at the other end. I would have tapped it for a 3/8-16 bolt, but the gremlins took my tap. They still haven't returned it.

I used the handle from the X axis handwheel which has been sitting in a drawer since I added a power feed unit.

I had thought about bending the new arm to match the original, but as it turns out, having it offset works out better. When rotating the crank in the counterclockwise direction to lower the head, the new arm doesn't get in the way, allowing a continuous motion.

It isn't pretty, it was made to be functional and to test the idea. It greatly eases the effort in raising the head, maybe I'll round off the ends, taper it towards the handle, and paint it.

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So I thought to myself, Self, if there was another arm...
This is a win in my book just for phrasing this correctly. :)

Also I like that idea. The only mill I have access to (one hour drive from here at my brother's house) is the HF version of the RF30. I think we'll have to do this to it. Thanks!
 
This idea may happen to an Enco mill in Yellow Jacket also.
Have a good day
Ray
 
I mentioned that adding a motor was considered, and still may do so eventually, but the extra arm works well enough that it has been moved to the bottom of the "to do" list.

Converting to the Tormach tool holders, and getting a set of screw machine drill bits has greatly reduced the need to move the head as frequently as before. They only need about 1 1/2" to remove, as opposed to 4" for the R8 collets.

I'm planning to do most of the "Cuppa Joe" and Rick Sparber mods, just need the time and ambition .

There's a reason they call these machines "Hobby Machines"..... Working on them becomes the hobby.....
 
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