2016 POTD Thread Archive

Had some smaller versions of that insert I used in the boring bar. Made a 3/4 inch bar for the boring head. It worked amazingly well for its length, needed about 7 inches to reach into the gearbox Im building.
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Greg

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Since I got my mill, the dial on the X-axis didn't work. It was completely worn out and would, at times, turn freely around the inner bush, all by itself. In an attempt to get some degree of friction, one of the previous owners opted to use a punch and as a result, stuffed things up even more. This dial annoyed me long enough and on Wednesday, I decided to fix it. I removed it, took it apart and decided to machine a new inner for it. The end result is a perfectly functioning dial, with the friction, as it should be. All that is left to do is to drill the holes for the locking pin:

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Yesterday, we serviced my old truck and discovered that the sump plug had basically been destroyed. Needless to say, no one knew who removed it during the previous service, so I decided to make a new one, using a piece from a 42mm scrap pump axle. I also got to use my recently purchased indexing head for the first time:

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Working on a project last week I found that I couldn't trust my reading of the DRO on the quill of my PM25, the light falling on it was such that I couldn't read it accurately. I make a pocket .050 too deep. I needed a positive stop on the quill. I got to thinking about it, the top of the quill descends into a sleeve, which is vertically stationary, both turn with the tool
Here's what I came up with, a sleeve that will attach to the quill but travel into the sleeve, with an adjustable stop mounted on my sleeve.
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The stop, on the left, is secured with the set screw, there's an aluminum plug under th set screw. The three set screws are all flattened on the end and they seat on a flat machined on the draw bar retainer. This unit can be installed upside down, too. I don't know what the maximum stroke will be for the stop, the quill only moves 1 3/4 inches, anyway.

Below is the top of the mill without and with the stop installed. It's meant to be left off except when needed.

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In use, the blued portion of the quill descends into the spindle, the stop will encounter the top of the sleeve that the pulley is mounted on.

My plan is to bring the tool down to touch the work, then put a stack of jo blocks under the stop and run the screw down to it and lock it there, the tool will then go down exactly what is needed. This is planned, it may not be that easy. All this assembly will be spinning all the time.
 
Tom,
Your stop looks good but I suggest you make an effort to balance it. At higher RPMs, imbalance might cause a resonance that will show up in surface finish.
 
Your stop looks good but I suggest you make an effort to balance it. At higher RPMs, imbalance might cause a resonance that will show up in surface finish

I thought of that, but my greatest need is consistent depth of drilled holes. I've gotta drill .040 holes through 1/4" aluminum, break through, but not encounter the steel fixture not quite in touch with the aluminum. The 10/24 screw is the only non-concentric piece, I might be able to put a longer 1/4 28 set screw and a nut on the other side. Time will tell. Thanks for the reminder.
 
I just tried it, couldn't notice any vibration up to max RPM. That's not to say there is no vibration, but it's really small.
 
I thought of that, but my greatest need is consistent depth of drilled holes. I've gotta drill .040 holes through 1/4" aluminum, break through, but not encounter the steel fixture not quite in touch with the aluminum. The 10/24 screw is the only non-concentric piece, I might be able to put a longer 1/4 28 set screw and a nut on the other side. Time will tell. Thanks for the reminder.

I didn't know the scale of the issue. I thought the stop rod might be 3/8-16. Your idea of a longer set screw/nut (or SHCS) is easy enough. Good job.
 
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