Chock Full Of Starretts

Steve Shannon

Rocketgeek
H-M Supporter Gold Member
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I mentioned to a friend of mine that I bought some micrometers last weekend and he said, "Here, I got something for you." He's the same guy that gave me a Unimat a month ago.
Today I really went through the box. Most of these items are Starretts, but there are a few marked Athol Machine Co, which look identical to the Starretts. Starretts also come from Athol, so I was wondering if that's an earlier name for the company.
Also, if I use a green Scotchbrite to scrub the rust off some of these will I damage them, or their value? I'm not a collector; I just want to be able to use them.
Thanks!

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Look how the hinge is built on this one:
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There were also three Slocomb and one Starrett outside micrometers in the box.

Steve Shannon

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If you're not a collector, then their value to you is that of usable tools. Do what you need to do to maintain them as such. Besides, just think of how many years they spent rattling around in other peoples tool drawers. Is a little judicious rubbing with a pad really going to hurt them that much?

Having said that, I might start with a white or a grey pad first before going to a more aggressive green. Lots of times what looks like rust at the outset is mainly grime and comes off pretty easy. A word of caution -- go slow. Sometimes what we really like about the looks of those old tools is the fact that they look old! When we polish 'em all up again, well, sometimes we wish we'd left well enough alone.

-frank
 
If you read the Starrett booklet The Starrett Story, It's free in paper or PDF dodwnload.


http://www.starrett.com/docs/educational/starrett-story---bulletin-1216.pdf


Starrett started outsourcing to a machine shop, then purchased it.
Althol could be the name of the shop before he owned it.

http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1179




Athol Machine Co. existed until 1905 when it was acquired by Laroy Starrett. He had worked for them prior to that time and bought them out after he won a patent-infringement lawsuit he had filed against them.


Athol Machine Co. was better known for their machinists' hand tools, such as squares and calipers. Since this web site's focus does not include hand tools, we cannot provide any information on most of Athol's products. They are listed here because they made a grinder.
 
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"IF" you want to remove the rust and patina, use Evaporust. Consider that for a while before you do it. I decided to clean my old, rusty calipers up. It was not really patina, it was just rust from storage, and I intend to use them, not put them in a glass box. Yes, Athol Machine Co. was the predecessor to Starrett. Great score! I have a very few Athol Machine tools myself...
 
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"IF" you want to remove the rust and patina, use Evaporust. Consider that for a while before you do it. I decided to clean my old, rusty calipers up. It was not really patina, it was just rust from storage, and I intend to use them, not put them in a glass box. Yes, Athol Machine Tool was the predecessor to Starrett. Great score! I have a very few Athol Machine tools myself...
If you're not a collector, then their value to you is that of usable tools. Do what you need to do to maintain them as such. Besides, just think of how many years they spent rattling around in other peoples tool drawers. Is a little judicious rubbing with a pad really going to hurt them that much?

Having said that, I might start with a white or a grey pad first before going to a more aggressive green. Lots of times what looks like rust at the outset is mainly grime and comes off pretty easy. A word of caution -- go slow. Sometimes what we really like about the looks of those old tools is the fact that they look old! When we polish 'em all up again, well, sometimes we wish we'd left well enough alone.

-frank
I'll see if I can find white or gray at Ace. I've been rubbing them first with a paper towel, wetted with WD-40. That seems to work well for the grime. In my photo above showing the Athol Company name the Athol name is where I rubbed with the paper towel.
I agree about the patina. I don't want to end up with a satin finish that doesn't reflect the miles measured, but I do want them usable. The pad I'm using is actually a supermarket brand copy of a scotchbrite, but even though it's green, it doesn't seem very abrasive.
I do intend to soak them in evaporust first, after wiping with WD-40, but before Scotchbrite.
Thanks!
 
Don't put them in the evaporust covered with WD-40. Soap and water, then rinse thoroughly and to the evaporust. Also, anything with a satin chrome finish (didn't notice anything in the pics) will no ever be the same if you use an abrasive pad to rub it down. Patience and evaporust.
 
You aren't supposed to remove the patina from very old tools. That "Stubbs" divider is an early tool,for example. Not sure off hand how far back they go. Probably at least early 19th. C. . They were a major tool maker in England.
 
You aren't supposed to remove the patina from very old tools. That "Stubbs" divider is an early tool,for example. Not sure off hand how far back they go. Probably at least early 19th. C. . They were a major tool maker in England.
What's the downside of removing the patina? Obviously there are no patina police who will come for me. If it just a faux pas, scorned by purists, or does it negatively affect the functionality of the tools? I notice that none of the tool companies apply a patina before selling their products.
Thank you for telling me about the Stubbs divider.
I don't have an agenda to remove the patina, but if doing so makes something more useful I would not hesitate.
 
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