Whole Shop And Machine-specific Help For Dunce

Okay, time for an update. So I managed to find some NOS GFI breakers for my single phase panel. That's good news. I also managed to pull off the switch panel from the front of the lathe. Turns out, the panel bolts on from the front with a pair of socket head screws, one at each end. Once you pull it out, the wire bundle is all that supports it. It has a box that covers all of the switches and wiring. Here are a couple of pictures. The switches seem to be 30mm through the holes on the face of the panel. (Well, the holes are probably 30mm, the threads seemed to be around 29.7xy mm): Here are the pics(the item on the far left is the power indicator socket, near as I can tell):
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As I was looking at the motor, and how I'll go about mounting the new one, I noticed something I hadn't before. The clutch linkage runs via a shaft from the front, through a pillow block, and then to a linkage rod to the middle of the gear case. As it is currently configured, it would interfere with the Stearns brake on the motor. Question: Can I manufacture a new rod, assuming sufficient rigidity, that would allow me to move the pivot on the end of the shaft inward(closer to the machine) on the 25mm shaft, so that I could essentially avoid interference with the Stearns Brake? The linkage rod is 14mm with 2mm pitch, about 17" long, center to center of the rod ends. It's perfectly straight of course, but I'd basically make a new rod with two right angles to avoid the interference. Here are some pictures of the problem:

As you can see looking at this first picture, that would interfere with the Stearns Brake.
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As you may be able to see here, there's about 2-1/2 or 3" inches of shaft between the pillow-block and the lever, which is simply roll-pinned to the shaft:
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Here's a slightly better look at the shaft.
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So what I propose is to shorten the shaft, moving the roll-pin hole and the control arm back close to the pillow-block. Theoretically, I could even flip it over on the shaft, placing the rod in the same vertical plane with the pillow-block, and that would basically clear the plane of the inside edge of the motor entirely. Thoughts?

As it is, the Hoffman enclosure that originally came with the lathe(and was missing) is set out about 3 inches to clear that linkage, and hinged on the left edge(as viewed from behind the lathe) allowing it to swing out for adjustment/lube of the upper control arm. I figure to essentially remake that same set-up, although the enclosure I purchased is about 6 inches taller, so will extend up about 6 inches above the level of the gear case. Thinking about this, could I place additional indicator lights and or switches directly through the back of the Hoffman enclosure, so I could see them from the front?

BTW, Jim, that one picture I had posted a while back that showed some sort of contactor or something, I finally retook that picture so here that is:
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Lastly, I'm having heck with the pulley. First of all, I'm unfamiliar with this sort of fixture. In these pictures, I've removed the bolt in the end of the shaft for better clarity:

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There are no set-screws of any sort I can find. There's a woodruff key, of course

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As you can see by the last picture, looking at the back of the pulley, there's nothing there either.
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I've managed to better measure the dimensions of the pulley itself. It's very near 9-3/4" outside diameter. It is almost precisely 2" wide, front rim face to back rim face. The belt grooves appear to be very near to 12mm at the top(outside edge), and the grooves are .577" or 14.67mm deep. The central hub doesn't appear to have an offset. I've got to figure out an equivalent, using a taper-bushing type, since of course, the new motor's shaft isn't threaded.
 
BTW, Jim, that one picture I had posted a while back that showed some sort of contactor or something, I finally retook that picture so here that is:

I don't know what that is. Never seen anything quite like it.

I'm guessing that pulley is a tight press fit. That's common in German machines. It's just pulled into place with the bolt.
 
I don't know what that is. Never seen anything quite like it.

I'm guessing that pulley is a tight press fit. That's common in German machines. It's just pulled into place with the bolt.

Jim, as for that electrical device, looking at the remnants of such wiring as I am able, I believe this is the first place electricity touched the machine. Not certain of it. I believe RST are the 3 phase legs, and N maybe neutral?? Of course, you can see the ground lug there at upper right. All I know for sure is it goes under a small cast cover on the back of the headstock pedestal. There's a notch in that cover for wiring to enter, and then the wiring at the top of this device departs through the wall of the pedestal.
 
BTW, Jim, that one picture I had posted a while back that showed some sort of contactor or something, I finally retook that picture so here that is:
Looks like a set of contacts on a DIN rail. Can you get a picture from another angle so that we can see whether there is any sort of mechanism in it?
 
Mark,

Rather than rasel with getting that sheave off the motor shaft, how about buying a new sheave, guessing either 3V or A section groove with a taper lock bushing to fit the new motor shaft. As the existing sheave will be metric bore which will not fit the new motor shaft. And would be a bigger headache trying to use it than buying something more easier to fit up to the new motor.

Ken
 
Maybe just a terminal block then.
Jim,

You and John are exactly right. It's a series of terminal bars mounted on a din type rail. It looked like a single fixture until I dismounted it, and then the insulating cases are brittle and began to fall apart. Here's a picture from the end:

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As for the accessory/brake shaft on the head-stock, here is a picture. Notice the green leads dangling. Apparently, the brake mounted to the circle of socket-head screws, and the rotor rode the shaft. At least that's what I'd guess:

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Lastly, from the headstock end of the gearbox, after removing the old motor just so I can begin cleaning all of it, I found 37 years worth of chips built up under the gear-case:

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The other thing this last photo made plain to me is the construction of this series of lathes. Apparently, the bed runs end to end. The gear case is common as is the bed. What changes, near as I can tell, is the plate shown in this last photo on which the gear case rests. If you look closely, the gear-case has its own ways, and to the right of this last photo, you can see the clamp-bar that holds it down to the ways at this end. You can actually see one of the 90 degree ways at the top of the curved rail there. So my speculation is that if you had a 50x series, you got this gear case. If you had a 60x, or 70x series, you got gear cases 10 and 20 cm taller(with respect to spindle centerline.) Of course, the tail stock and steady rests would change accordingly too, and I think it would necessitate a change on the change gears for the sake of making the lead screw and etc run. Typical German modularity, best I can tell. Fun fun. Now that I have the old motor out of the way, it's soaking with a degreaser. I just want to get some of the dirt and grease and grime off of it so I can brush up against it without turning my clothing to greasy rags. And the work continues...LOL
 
All that build up of chips is from using a air gun to clean the machine off for 37 years!
 
So I've been looking around for switches... Obviously, I want round face push-buttons that fit snuggly in a 30mm hole. Illuminated switches would be nice. What switching mechanism is appropriate here? I wouldn't want to use momentary switches for these, right?
 
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