Atlas Th48 or Logan 200

Looking at these two lathes. Both are in similar condition and priced relatively the same at around 600-700. Just wondering what others think on them, their pros and cons, etc. I am new to lathes so keep that in mind. I plan on turning spacers, bushings motorcycle steering stems, drilling out camshafts (18" long), and maybe new projects in the future. Thanks for all the help.

I'm not familiar with the Logan, but have a similar Atlas. The Atlas has a 3/4" bore through the spindle, which will limit the size of workpiece that you can put through the headstock. This will be somewhat restrictive, especially for the project you mentioned with boring a camshaft. It has a total bed length of 48 inches. This equates to 30 inches between centers. That will likely be right at the limit for drilling a part 18 inches long (assuming that you will flip it and drill from each end). These are not the most rigid machines, but they are far from useless. Much great quality work has been done and continues to be done with them. One just needs to understand the physical limitations of the machine and work within those limits. Being a TH machine, it will use change gears for threading and for feeding longitudinally. Make sure you get a complete set of those with the machine, as a set can cost around $200 used. My Atlas uses the change gears as well. It takes more time to setup if you need to change feed rate or thread pitch, but it also gives you an chance to inspect the gear train and clean/lube it. If the $6-700 price includes accessories and tooling, that would be a good deal for a machine in good shape.
Good luck!
-Randall

This is a question I've posted before on the spindle side. Why can I just put one end of the cam or bar stock in the chuck and have a tool rest to help?

Logan is dirty and needs to be cleaned up, been sitting. Comes with extra gears (not sure if full set), rest, point thing (cone) for the tail stock, and some other stuff. waiting on more info on what acc are included.

Atlas seems to have been regularly used before sitting for a few years, but no pics. Includes 3-jaw chuck 1 1/2 " x 8 TPI Spindle, drill chuck, and only the gears on it. May have other tooling but they guy is out of state having someone else sell for him and it may include more acc. He said he used it for gunsmithing.

I would be looking for at least: 3-jaw chuck, 4-jaw chuck, steady rest, follower rest, tailstock drill chuck, tailstock centers (dead and live), toolpost and tool holders, some cutting tools. Quick change tool post and holders for it would be very helpful because the lantern-style post and holders are more difficult to deal with for the majority of operations. As I stated before, a used set of change gears for the Atlas will likely be close to $200 or more. They are available periodically but are not cheap.
Regarding your question about machining the camshaft: What is the diameter of the shaft? If it is more than 3/4" you will be limited to holding one end in a chuck (preferably a 4-jaw so it can be dialed accurately). The other end would need to be held in a steady rest to be supported well enough to drill it. You could drill half-way through, then dismount, flip end-for-end, remount and redial it at both ends (chuck and steady rest), then drill to the already-drilled hole. The other problem becomes length. You effectively have 30" of bed length available between centers. You have a workpiece that is 18" long, then a drill chuck that uses about 2-3", then a drill bit that needs to be 9.5-10" sticking out from the drill chuck. That totals 30-31" and uses all of the available bed length in a best-case scenario. More likely, the chuck on the spindle will take more space than a center would, so that uses up another couple of inches that you don't have. Also, the tailstock ram on these machines only has about 2.5" of travel. That means that you cannot drill the whole length from one position. Another option would be to use a drill that would be mounted on the carriage. This would eliminate needing the tailstock for this project and it could be removed from the lathe. It would leave more room to work and would eliminate having to clamp, release, move, reposition, re-clamp the tailstock for drilling many times for one operation. There are some options, and it could be accomplished, but might not be ideal. I completely understand, however, the need and desire to obtain useable machine(s) on a tight budget.
The direct answer to the question

borjawil said:

Why can I just put one end of the cam or bar stock in the chuck and have a tool rest to help?

Click to expand...

is that without real support on the right end, it would be quite unsafe that far out from the chuck. That is the reason for needing a steady rest. If you were not drilling the end, the tailstock and center would support it, but you need to work the end so it requires a steady rest for support.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope it helps you some.

By the way, why do you want to drill through the length of a camshaft? Just curious.

Thanks for the detailed answer! My background is motorcycle building - frames, repair, custom fabrication, etc. However I'm getting into making custom "home decor" type pieces. One of them being camshaft lamps. Camshafts come hollowed, but if I can drill solid ones out then it'll lower costs and expand the shafts I can work with.

Check spindle bearings.

Atlas is likely Babbet or something else and Logan could be roller.

Logans usually superior to atlas...usually.

Post photos of both if you can.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

How would one check the bearings on a spindle? other than running and feeling them for heat/listening for weird noises. Only have pics of the logan which I'm leaning towards due to what it comes with and the atlas not having the other gears, plus its about $150 cheaper at 600, though I think I could get it for $500

That Logan may have roller bearings as there are no oil cups.

You should get a dial indicator with a magnetic base and some wood blocks like 1 ft lengths of scrap 2 X 4 as well as a 4 ft length.

Place dial indicator where it can measure up and down movement of chuck and with wood blocks place one across bed front to back to then use long one resting on it to pry a bit upward on the chuck...not much force but just a bit and see if the indicator moves much.

Atlas with worn out bearings will move a bunch and if Logan is roller very little.

Another note regarding the Logan is the lever that engages the back gear can slip out of position and it can cause busted gear if past user banged it in while running or if someone use it to remove chuck.

Check operation to be sure it stays as well as inspect back gears for all teeth.

Ours was missing some and we missed it...need to fix but easier to use different lathe.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

How much movement is too much? I have a magnetic dial indicator and understand your method of moving it. good idea.