New PM-932 seems too low to me.

38Bill said:
Thanks for the info, I'm 5'-9" and the table is only 35" off the floor. A couple of timers I have sat down while working but that puts my face in the firing line if anything goes bad.
Click to expand...
Maybe a shop stool would put your face at a better height?
 
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY PM-727M .

I SOLVED IT BY REPLACING THE STAND WITH A 5 DRAWER VIDMAR CABINET
THAT IS 5 INCHES TALLER THAN THE STAND .

WAKES A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE AND STORES ALL MY MILL STUFF .
DSC_0547.JPG


THE PM STAND IS NOW DOING A FINE JOB AS A BASE FOR MY ARBOR PRESS .

DSC_0810.JPG
 
The new PM932's come with the cast base not the cabinet style. So far I'm thinking I'll do something like Cobra made,. It looks simple yet strong and would let me make it as high as I wanted.
 
Cobra said:
I had the same concern with the Grizzly G0755 mill.
These are the risers that I used.
They are 7.25" overall height. Made up from 5X5X1/2" Square tube and 6X1/2" Flat bar.
I then use the hockey puck and steel centre plate for leveling and shock absorption.
Much more comfortable to work at now.

View attachment 225107 View attachment 225108 View attachment 225109
Click to expand...

I made some thing similar to put under my lathe, but it appears my garage floor is not flat as it rocks a little, so I'm going to have to add some feet with jacking screws to stop the rocking and to re-level it.
 
Bob Korves said:
Using shims to cure the rocking is a much easier path to the same end.
Click to expand...

I thought about using shims, but decided against it as my lathe is backed up against a wall and in the corner, so I cant get behind it to place the shims, As I'm going to need to pull it out from the wall from time to time, I'm in the process of making a set of 4 machine skates that I can use to wheel it away from the wall, when needed. Once it's out from the wall I'll weld some outrigger legs onto the subframe, and fit jacking screws to them. Then when all the bits are made and ready to go I'll get the lathe up onto the skates pull it out from the wall, weld the outrigger legs with jacking screws on, then push the whole lot back into place, and adjust the jacking screws.
 
Hi all from over the pond..........
simalar problems myself, machines to low (2 lathes +2mill's) crap floor (moving, so it'll get better in the new shop) plus I sometimes have to move the machines around for a big'ish job......never enough room, as always........
made/welded heavy duty 4x2 metal frames with adjustable feet for all the machines, no quite perfect hight on everything but close enough.........bonus points are that I can shift em around on a pallet truck.......I have a fettling bench (go on ask what that is) hahaha, lets see if anyone reads my thread..... that weigh's in close to 1/2 ton (must learn how to post photo's)......as it needs to be moved a yard or 3 foot to use the metal cropper........

happy day's........Clogs, cos I wear'em.............hahaha..........
 
Clogs said:
Hi all from over the pond..........
simalar problems myself, machines to low (2 lathes +2mill's) crap floor (moving, so it'll get better in the new shop) plus I sometimes have to move the machines around for a big'ish job......never enough room, as always........
made/welded heavy duty 4x2 metal frames with adjustable feet for all the machines, no quite perfect hight on everything but close enough.........bonus points are that I can shift em around on a pallet truck.......I have a fettling bench (go on ask what that is) hahaha, lets see if anyone reads my thread..... that weigh's in close to 1/2 ton (must learn how to post photo's)......as it needs to be moved a yard or 3 foot to use the metal cropper........

happy day's........Clogs, cos I wear'em.............hahaha..........
Click to expand...

I had an earlier hobby silver and gold smithing. All my fettling was done with very small tools at a little bench in the basement!
 
bobshobby said:
I thought about using shims, but decided against it as my lathe is backed up against a wall and in the corner, so I cant get behind it to place the shims, As I'm going to need to pull it out from the wall from time to time, I'm in the process of making a set of 4 machine skates that I can use to wheel it away from the wall, when needed. Once it's out from the wall I'll weld some outrigger legs onto the subframe, and fit jacking screws to them. Then when all the bits are made and ready to go I'll get the lathe up onto the skates pull it out from the wall, weld the outrigger legs with jacking screws on, then push the whole lot back into place, and adjust the jacking screws.
Click to expand...


Bob
I don't know how your lathe is but when I got the G0750G, I was concerned with the stability. The base didn't seem wide enough for my liking.
I ran extensions on either side to give a bigger footprint. They were from 3X3 angle with 5/8" fine thread jacks for leveling. The jacks are just 5/8" threaded rod with hex milled on top and a 60 degree point on the bottom. The points of the jacks engage the steel disk shown which then sits on hockey pucks. The angle iron is attached by a couple of bolts and a row of 3/16" SS pop rivets. Makes leveling very easy and eliminates another source of vibration.

Support 1.JPG Support 2.JPG Support 3.JPG Support 4.JPG Support 5.JPG
 
Cobra said:
Bob
I don't know how your lathe is but when I got the G0750G, I was concerned with the stability. The base didn't seem wide enough for my liking.
I ran extensions on either side to give a bigger footprint. They were from 3X3 angle with 5/8" fine thread jacks for leveling. The jacks are just 5/8" threaded rod with hex milled on top and a 60 degree point on the bottom. The points of the jacks engage the steel disk shown which then sits on hockey pucks. The angle iron is attached by a couple of bolts and a row of 3/16" SS pop rivets. Makes leveling very easy and eliminates another source of vibration.

View attachment 225676 View attachment 225677 View attachment 225678 View attachment 225679 View attachment 225680
Click to expand...

Thanks Jim, Likewise I was concerned about stability and also wanted to insulate the lateh from the floor to reduce vibration. Prior to my lathe being delivered I made up a steel frame from 75mm x 3mm. square tube, into a rectangular frame all welded, for the lathe to be bolted onto and then adjusted with jacking screws. Unfortunately the concrete floor where my lathe is, appears to be not quite level, so I get a bit of rocking.

My plan is a bit complicated but it solves a couple of other problems. I realise that I will at some time have to be able to pull the lathe out from against the wall where it is to get access behind, for cleaning, access to the motor and switch box, etc. So I have decided to make a set of 4 machine skates, they are about half made (will post some pics when finished). also some lifting plates on each end so that I can get my trolley jack under and lift it onto the skates , one end at a time. then pull the lathe straight out.

When in that position I will weld some Jacking points onto the front and back of the frame near each end, so that when the lathe is pushed back into place and the skates removed I can then adjust the jacking screws as required. i will post some pics of the whole process when its in action.

Here in Australia hockey is not widely played so I have no idea where to get hockey pucks, but I have used some special rubber pads that are designed for mounting and insulating machines from vibration.

I also plan to make a pad to mount a small jib crane into the base at the headstock end as I can't lift the 4 jaw chuck, (bad back and age), even the 3 jaw is a struggle. I used to be able to lift and carry 224lb, at 19 years old and in the army.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top