New Clausing 6913 - Gear box engagement lever fixed!!!!

You have a very powerful machine. The OEM came with a 3HP motor. Please be careful. It can easily wind you up like a ball of cotton candy if you get too close to the spindle and or exposed drive. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!
 
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So you have a AC Tech - SM230S VFD, which is a 3 Hp single phase input model.You will need to have it connected to something like a 30a 240VAC dual pole breaker with 10AWG wire going to the machine. The machine has an input line reactor installed, which is wired prior to the the VFD, this provides some reserve/smoothing for the the input current and can help tame transient spikes. Your incoming power would connect to this and not the VFD. Uncommon on this size machine, but looks like a very clean install. Once powered up you will need to figure out the controls, it appears that he is using a remote VFD panel to run the VFD. I would want to see some form of E-Stop if not equipped, and you will need to see how the machine operates. Most likely the motor is likely a stock (or non-inverter rated) unit, so the maximum speed (Hz is probably set for 60-80Hz, wouldn't want to go above that unless you have an inverter motor, and one needs to be cognizant of the maximum lathe speed so you may want to get a tach at some point). Lower end of the speed range is probably around 20Hz.

Attached you will find the VFD users manual and the remote keypad instructions. I would have the electrician power up everything and then go over the VFD operations with you. Most likely the previous owner had everything programmed, so should be ready to run.

Very nice score, I am sure it will be a very nice lathe that you got at an unbelievable price.
 

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I will reply later. Electrician is here now. He set it up and it runs but having some issues with feed screw. There seems to be an issue with the cradle lock assy. The cover fell off when I pulled out of the original owners yard but I saw it fall and grabbed it. Thanks again all. Will have to look at it more another day. Too tired to figure it out now.

I will be care full with it. I knew it is a lot more power full than I know.
 
wa5cab said:
DH,

On the manual, that is the same as the one here and in Downloads. Except that I spotted the extra out of place page and deleted it. That does tell me where my copy originally came from, though.
Click to expand...
 
mksj said:
So you have a AC Tech - SM230S VFD, which is a 3 Hp single phase input model.You will need to have it connected to something like a 30a 240VAC dual pole breaker with 10AWG wire going to the machine. The machine has an input line reactor installed, which is wired prior to the the VFD, this provides some reserve/smoothing for the the input current and can help tame transient spikes. Your incoming power would connect to this and not the VFD. Uncommon on this size machine, but looks like a very clean install. Once powered up you will need to figure out the controls, it appears that he is using a remote VFD panel to run the VFD. I would want to see some form of E-Stop if not equipped, and you will need to see how the machine operates. Most likely the motor is likely a stock (or non-inverter rated) unit, so the maximum speed (Hz is probably set for 60-80Hz, wouldn't want to go above that unless you have an inverter motor, and one needs to be cognizant of the maximum lathe speed so you may want to get a tach at some point). Lower end of the speed range is probably around 20Hz.

Attached you will find the VFD users manual and the remote keypad instructions. I would have the electrician power up everything and then go over the VFD operations with you. Most likely the previous owner had everything programmed, so should be ready to run.

Very nice score, I am sure it will be a very nice lathe that you got at an unbelievable price.
Click to expand...

We got the machine running. And by we I mean the electrician got It going. He had to change some of the wiring on the motor as it must not have been connected correctly. He programmed the controller according to the book. Currently the low end is set at 10hz, and the high end is set at 60hz. He was having trouble with the reverse/forward button though. He had to go into the menu(mode??) to change the direction of rotation. We thought it should be able to just stop the motor and switch direction with one push of the button but it doesn't work that way. Were going to look into that later some more.

The cover on the cradle lock assembly or gearbox engaging lever(as the book states it called) fell off when I left his yard but I saw it and grabbed it. The lever with the coil spring in it. It doesn't seem to be engaging correctly. We are having some issues with it. It doesn't seem to engage correctly. Will look at all this later and see what we can figure out. It sounds pretty good while its running.
 
Dhector said:
Is there a limit in this forum of posting too much????? :)
Click to expand...

No. I have seen old posts that exceed 20 pages. However, in most cases if you read the first two or three posts and then go and read the last few, you usually find that something commonly called "thread hijacking" has occurred. Meaning that for example if the thread started off talking about one machine, at the end it is talking about a different one. In those cases, it would have been better had the person with the different machine started a new thread. But that hasn't happened here. So carry on to your heart's content. :tranquility:
 
The easiest way to change the 3 phase motor direction is to switch any two wires at the motor terminals OR VFD motor output terminals. The direction should be such that when you activate the Jog the machine will turn forward.

Remote VFD panels are OK for continuous run setups, but not for frequent start/stops and direction changes. I would recommend that you look into a simple 3 wire connection setup which would use larger momentary buttons for the run and stop functions, and a separate forward/reverse toggle or rotary switch. A speed pot would also be needed. Everything can be mounted in a small enclosure, probably $75-100 in parts. This VFD is limited as far as programmability and inputs, so it would be more difficult to do anything more elaborate. If the lathe had a functional spindle switched, it could be used but you would need a more elaborate control board with relays and a separate power supply. Normal 2 wire VFD control directly connected to the VFD inputs is very dangerous because the machine will startup when power is applied if the spindle lever was in the forward/reverse position.

There are a few programming parameters they may require some adjustments, so both acceleration and electronic braking/method should be checked so the machines stops withing about 3 seconds.
 
mksj said:
Attached you will find the VFD users manual and the remote keypad instructions..
Click to expand...

I uploaded the two files to DOWNLOADS. To find, search for AC Tech. (NOTE: The Search button sometimes brings up the entry screen for searching posts. The screen that you want near the bottom has a line already checked that says "Search Downloads Only". For some unknown glitchy reason, the screen with "Search this category only" insists on coming up more often than not).
 
Dhector said:
View attachment 232287 Not sure on what these are? Do they belong to this machine? Missing parts?
Click to expand...

#7 is a spare hydraulic hose that goes from the speed control on top of the lathe to the spindle where the two pulley sheaves slide closer and farther apart to change the speed of the spindle.

#5 Spanner looks small for the spanner you need to remove the chuck from the L00 spindle but it might be. The spindle nose is tapered and the chucks are held onto the spindle with a large round nut of about 6" diameter that has a series of holes in it. You put a spanner on that nut and turn it to release or tighten it.

#3 goes on the outboard side of the spindle. It makes it easy to turn the spindle by hand whan you want to turn it a little.

#1,8,6 look like they all are part of the collet close system.

#4 is a two jaw chuck

The item to the left of the 2 jaw chuck looks like a quick change toolpost laid on its side

The item between #3 and the handle of the collet closer looks like a micrometer stop. It clamps to the bed of the lathe and keeps you from moving the carriage too far when you're turning to a shoulder.
 
Is there a special application for a 2 jaw chuck?
Recommendation on tooling bits? HSS, inserts??
Too many for me to understand. I don't want a 500.00 dollar set, but I also don't want a 5.00 set. The best bang for the buck maybe?
Brand and where to purchase. I have used travers in the past, are they a good source or is there a better one?
 
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