Quill/Spindle Assembly Removal

Flyrod

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Hi All - to have Index convert the taper on my Index 40 from a BS9 to R8, I need to send them the entire quill/spindle assembly

I have seen a parts diagram, but that does not really provide instructions as to what to do to remove it on a step by step basis

I have searched this forum without success

If anyone knows of a thread I might have overlooked, or something on the internet or youtube that is instructive, I would greatly appreciate a steer

Thanks!
 
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I'm sure there is not much difference between the model 40 and my 645 as to how to get the quill out.
The quill will drop out from the bottom of the head. I'll get back with you in a bit.

I'm back!.

I've attached a cut away of the spindle assy for a model 40. I assume you have this. I took it from another poster, "Middle of the Road" from another thread.

The handwheel feed on front of the quill housing has to come off. Now, when you remove it, the spindle assy may drop down to bottom out in the housing. So you may want to block it up, so it does not drop. Be sure to lower the spindle down about midways. Once the handwheel assy is removed, you will see a shaft with a coarse looking thread on it with a worm gear at the top end of this shaft. This has to come out. Not sure if it's mounting. Looks like some kind of threaded stud in the bottom of the screw that has to be removed first. Looks like this threaded shaft has to be unthreaded from the nut that is mounted to the spindle quill. Once removed, then the nut can be removed. After the nut is removed from the spindle, then the quill can be dropped out to the bottom of the spindle housing. There you have it. May have to use a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer to drive the quill assembly out. Be sure to remove the draw bar and nut on top of the spindle before pushing the quill out.

Ken

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thx Ken

back in shop next week...will have a go at it...
 
so took a swing at it...and missed

did have a chance to talk to WI today

as you mention Ken, the key to the whole operation is removing the brass nut that the lead screw goes through

apparently that nut goes into the quill about 1/8 of an inch and supports it - once removed, the entire quill drops (with the spindle inside it) - the nut is attached to the quill with two allen cap screws

the nut has 2 holes that line up with 2 holes in the lead screw (that goes through the nut from top to bottom)

step one, according to WI is the removal of those 2 screws - the idea is to thread quill to a spot where the 2 screws line up with 2 holes in the lead screw that allow you to unscrew them

i am stuck on this step - no matter how i tweak it, the screws do not line up exactly with the holes and start to bind (WI's instructions if this were to happen is to stop and rejigger position)

any one have a tip or trick as to how to achieve this?

thanks!

pics here: https://goo.gl/photos/hZFXZ9pFQhShive5A
 
Pics here are better,
I for one don't need any more
probs With these DA things
step one, according to WI is the removal of those 2 screws - the idea is to thread quill to a spot where the 2 screws line up with 2 holes in the lead screw that allow you to unscrew them
 
Dlane - exactly

And after an hour of playing around I could not get them ton line up without binding occurring as the screws entered the lead screw

I am looking for a tip or trick I might be missing in order to get those to lineup

For example if there were some way to have the lead screw loose or with some play in it where I could use my fingers to line it up precisely that would work

I don't know if that's possible or if there is some other way to create play in the lead screw

That is the kind of advice I'm looking for

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
I'm posting your pictures here so others that can't access them can see them.

So you're telling us that there are holes going thru the lead screw that give you access to the screws on the other side of the nut???

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Exactly!

according Rick at Wells Index ("WI"), there are versions that have only one hole/screw and versions like mine (c. 1949) that have 2 - the purpose is just as you can imagine... to get the quill out without taking apart the entire head assembly

getting the screws out is supposed to be the easy part...but of course, i am stuck there, right out of the gate

once the screws are out, that brass nut supposedly goes into the quill about an eighth of an inch - i might be stating the obvious, but it is this brass nut being spun on the lead screw that raises and lowers the quill by the nut being attached to the quill

the harder part, once the screws are out, is to move that brass nut forward the 1/8th inch - that is because the lead screw is fixed (on the top...the screw at the bottom does not screw into the lead screw ... the backlash in the lead screw causes it to bottom out in one direction and raise up a revolution and a half (or so) to take it up the other way - that screw can screw into the area at the bottom of the lead screw so there is less play) - so the part i thought i was going to be asking you guys about was how to get 1/8" of play in the lead screw

i think to loosen the lead screw it requires loosening the 4 hex head cap screws that fix that entire assembly to the head...but i am not sure ...so if anyone has advice there...much appreciated

complicating things, my mill has the option for the automatic downfeed of the quill...so i don't know if that gets in the way of loosening the top of the lead screw assembly

of course, if there is an easier / better way to do this, i am all ears

bottom line, i am trying to get the quill assembly out of the mill

thanks!
 
You have a tough one there. Concentrate on one screw at a time in removing them. As much as I hate to say, may have to drill them out. See if the screws are tapped with a small thread in the head of the screw like a 8-32 or 10-32 thread. That would accept a piece of all thread to aid in pulling the screw out. If not, drill and tap a small thread in the head of the screw to aid in pulling the screw out.

Edit, May also drill out the hole in the lead screw a little bigger to give the screw more clearance for getting it out. Try a small magnet too.
 
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