Keep on posting useful info like that and I'm sure you will soon be able to post pics, ( mods can this be fast tracked? ) thanks for the input.
Hear is the picture of the finished dial I will have to tear it apart to show the details maybe start another post for that. I did not machine the nut at the back of the mount instead I drill a couple holes in the front and use a spanner wrench to tighten it up the nut on the front sets the bearing preload. 100_0352.JPG
And here is the tap I made crude but it works well.
And this is not Atlas but it is the power feed I made for my Grizzly GO727 mill I had an Atlas but I like this one so much I sold it. The motor inside is a tiny gearhead motor out of an ICBM missile that is for controlling the directional fins it has a lot of power and is very slow when you need it.
I see that you figured out the attachments bit.
Clever work you've done there Iron man, looking forward to more detail when you have the time to share it, thanks..
In case anyone is following the recent part of this thread because they need Atlas parts and don't know, I'll mention that Clausing still has considerable support for the Atlas lathes and to a lesser degree, some of the other type machines that Atlas built. Prices generally reflect current (not 1940's) costs to produce but a pair of half nuts for a 12" last time I checked were under $35. If you'd rather make a part because you can and don't need the machine back up PDQ in order to make something else (which would generally be my case), have at it. Just know that you may not have to.
Also (with the exception of the Model 3950 headstock casting), generally ignore derogatory comments about Zamak parts. For the most part they are just sour grapes.
All I was saying was if he was interested is production, an Atlas might not be the machine for him. Try taking a .200 cut on an Atlas with a V belt drive. The box ways are considered a weak point and are generally regarded as inaccurate. Changing gears is also time consuming. By all means though, delete my comment because I offended someone. BTW, I owned an Atlas and enjoyed using it, but I was always mindfull of it's limitations. When I run bigger work, production, and tight tolerances, I use my Harrison.
Use the right tool for the job.
Last edited by Brandon; 02-10-13 at 09:57 AM.
The name of this site is Hobby-Machinist. With equal emphasis on both words. Several other roughly similar internet lists use the same word in their names, or use "Home". For the most part, even 20 years ago none of the machines commonly discussed here would have been usable for production. Even today most machine shops will still have several manual engine lathes on the floor for prototypes, one-off's and the like. But if they tried to use them for production, labor costs would be prohibitive. And the cost of even those machines is beyond the means (or beyond the willingness to pay) of the majority of the people who turn up here.
I've never particularly needed to take a .200 cut but if trying to do so with a V-belt drive would cause problems, trying to do it with a flat belt drive would be if anything worse. But I consider it a non-issue on this site.
Although very few flat bed lathes are made anymore, it's more because they are generally regarded as inaccurate plus one other issue than because they are inaccurate. A badly worn V bed is just as bad as a badly worn flat bed. The only real difference is that a badly worn V-bed doesn't give itself away by being hard to traverse all the way to the tailstock end of the bed. Unless you have to do work accurate to 0.0001" or less, the only real problem with a properly adjusted flat bed lathe is differential bed wear. Which can be a problem. On the other hand, it's cheaper to regrind a flat bed than a V-bed.
I don't understand your time consuming gear change comment. If time is critical, don't use a Change Gear lathe.
In any case, it wasn't what you said, it was how you said it. Had you told the guy that for a production shop, forget anything more than about 30 years old (and therefore most machines anyone on this site owns other than Chinese built), and to go buy a good used NC machining center, there wouldn't have been any reason to take exception.
I owned a Logan, 3 Atlas lathes, a Sheldon flatbelt, a Jet and now have an 1880's Prentise Bros treadle lathe and a 1440 GoodWay gearhead. All good machines and I made hundreds of parts on them. I was happy with each lathe when I had it, but every now and then each one either wasn't quite large enough or didn't have collets or was too slow for some jobs or something else. They were good 80% of the time but could be agrivating at times also. Life is full of compromises. As I have gotten older and with a lifetime of turning, it's nice to have that I really enjoyed using and has fewer limitations and offers many of the features the others didn't have.
I was sharing my experience dealing with Atlas lathes. I gave an honest assessment You didn't like it, so you deleted what I typed.
Your comment of "Even today most machine shops will still have several manual engine lathes on the floor for prototypes, one-off's and the like. But if they tried to use them for production, labor costs would be prohibitive" Is not accurate at all. Do you see the lathe in my avatar? That lathe is used every day, as well as a collection of manuals that you don't see. I regularly take .200+ deep cuts with my machine in my shop. That is why I make money.
I am a machinist and tool and die maker by trade, and by choice. I set up and run CNC machines and every sort of manual machine that you can think of, as well as most brands. I belonged to the IAM for years. I was sharing my experience with a person that was asking for help. I'm sorry if I insulted your favorite machine by pointing out it's well known problems. I figured that you would welcome different viewpoints as well as an experienced professional machinist to your site.
The short answer to his first question should have been a simple "yes". Mac vs PC is an excellent description. Linux vs MS would have been another good one. Mac and Linux users habitually run down people who use MS. Just as owners of some lathe brands that I won't list habitually run down Atlas and Atlas users. The reverse is seldom true.
I didn't go back and look for his original post and didn't recall what he had said. Now that you've refreshed my memory, I see that what he originally said he was looking for could have been easily handled by any of the five common vintage US makes and had little enough in common with what you've posted since. He certainly never said anything about "production" and I'd bet that a .200 cut would probably part off most of what he wanted to be able to make. As he was logged in as of a few minutes ago, I assume he probably went with one of the other four. I hope he found something that works for him. If you were "just trying to help", you apparently narrowed down his range of choices.
I recently upgraded to a Craftsman/Atlas 618 from the Mighty Unimat DB-200 and I am pretty darn happy with it. Everything I tried to do with the Unimat apart from model work was at the outer limits of it's ability. I live in a city apartment, with a Model T size garage that I share with a car, so needed a machine that was small, could sit on an existing bench and was semi-portable. Believe me, I would rather have a Monarch 10EE, but living in a big city you have to make compromises. I was just about to buy a Microlux 7X16- on sale, the variable speed brushless motor was a big plus, but I saw a relatively well tooled Craftsman 618 on craigslist- this had the milling attachment as well and was a lightly used hobbyist machine since new. And was a bit cheaper than the Microlux. I went for the 618- it is about the biggest lathe I can justify given my space available, I can horse it around by myself and compared to the Unimat it makes chips like a Colchester. Quality seems on par with the better ChiCom 7X lathes or a bit better, but both machines were built to a price point. I also have TWO other Atlas lathes back in the midwest that I bought literally a month before I started a new career 15 years ago, so I have spare parts I can lug back on the train (which has pretty much unlimited baggage- try dragging a machine tool with you on an airplane!). I like the machine- I still may add a variable speed brushless motor to it, but I am having a lot of fun as it is.
I have an Atlas TH54 and a 19 inch LeBlond regal. For most of my work I prefer my Atlas. My Atlas was bought new by a live steamer and well taken care of. I am the 2nd owner of it. The only thing I added was a quick change tool holder. Ebay is a great place to buy parts and accessories. I have a lot of the toys that go with it. The lathe is one of the handiest tools you will ever own. I like my Atlas and wouldn't trade it for anything.
I posted a helpful ,NON DEROGATORY,actual use experience I had with my first lathe,a 12" Sears atlas. It has vanished. I'd like to know why. I stated in the post that it was not meant to be insulting.
If any of my posts are deleted,it would be the polite and professional thing to be informed by PM as to the reason it was deleted. Possibly modifications of the post could be made if needed.
Is it possible that Nelson,working on the forum,caused posts to vanish?
Does any moderator care to reply to this? Thank you.
i'll throw my hat into the ring..
i loved my atlas th42. it is a beautiful machine, but has severe limitations.
i quickly learned of vibration issues as well as having to deal with the slow change geartrain.
the gearing is reminiscent of Fisher-Price childrens' toys, and were designed with minimum cost as the prerequisite.
i would suggest the purchase of a V bed for any serious machining, a new mini lathe has near the same capabilities as an atlas 6", and eclipses the craftsman/atlas in other ways with variable speed and ease of parts availability.
IMO, for a 10 or 12" buy a V bed you'll be much happier with the accuracy.
IMO, stick with heavy duty, not Fisher-Price.
"If it broke once, it WILL break again!"
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