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5c collet set

woodrowm

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#1
Good morning - Hey does anyone have or have used the 5c Collet set that is sold by Quality Machine Tool, if so what is your opinion on the set?

Thanks,
Woodrow
 

4ssss

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#2
The threads on most Chinese collets are not sized very well, and require a bit of effort to draw them in. I don't usually recommend Ebay, but a used set of US branded collets would do you better in my opinion. Unless the collets were used in a production machine, they don't wear out, unless someone ran a cutter into them.
 

wrmiller

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#4
If Matt sends you a set that doesn't work, or are otherwise defective, he will replace them.

If you still have questions about them, why not write an email to Matt?
 

mmcmdl

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#5
Good tools aren't cheap and cheap tools aren't good . Take it for what it's worth .
 

peder.wennberg

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#6
I have them. They are my first 5c collets so I have nothing to compare them to but I have used several of them and am satisfied.
No problems with the threads on mine.
Same here. My suggestion is to buy a set and for those sizes you use the most, invest in higher quality collets. Spend your money on higher quality tooling you actually use.
 

wrmiller

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#7
Just curious, but if a collet has decent threads such that it compresses and releases properly, and meets my needs for tolerances, just what am I investing in "higher quality collets" for exactly? Tool life?
 

Alan H

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#8
I have found that the cheaper collets move in and out more freely than the expensive ones. I have both and I use the Chinese ones most of the time.

I have found that the clamping range on 5C's are quite narrow and it's almost imperative to have the whole set.

While I don't have Matt's, I wouldn't hesitate to buy them from him. I think he sells his with a stand/holder doesn't he? That is a necessity to store them all.

BTW, the vast majority of 5C's are now Asian. I did a pretty in depth look see a few months back and discovered that some branded as made in USA are really not. As an example, I think I remember that Ajax sells some that are provided by an American supplier and advertised as made in the USA. But when you dig deeper, they get them from China via Canada! Maritool gets theirs from Asia and will tell you upfront that they sell them just to have them for the few customers that ask for them.
 

BGHansen

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#9
I have a few Hardinge 5C's, and have a 1/64" stepped set from CDCO on my Grizzly and a 1/32" stepped set on my Clausing. I haven't used all of the collets so can't speak to all of them, but have not had any issues with the Chinese ones. The threads inside and out have been fine. The few I checked for accuracy were at 0.0002" which may have partially been my 5MT to 5C adapter.

I'm pretty much self-taught and might be missing something, but haven't noticed any difference in use between the Hardinge and the CDCO collets. I'm not a production shop so maybe the Hardinge can take more use and abuse, but I don't abuse my stuff. If I break it, I have to fix it.

I haven't used any collets from Matt, but if they're priced in the ball park of the Chinese ones from CDCO or Shars, he's probably getting them from an Asian importer also. He has a great rep for standing by his products, so you will end up with a good set if there are some issues with a few of them.

Bruce
 

Alan H

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#10
Here's a side by side of two 3/4" 5C's - a cheap CDCO and a relatively expensive Lyndex. CDCO are Chinese and Lyndex/Nikken are Japanese.

I have the full set by 1/64's from CDCO. They are usable and they do get a lot of use. But the threading on them is rough as a cob and the etched markings on the collets are disappearing with use. I know some folks who had good luck of the draw with CDCO but I didn't. If I had it to do over again I would buy from Matt instead.

The Lyndex are top shelf and the markings are engraved. The threading is very nice and overall they are well made. I have a set of Lyndex by 1/16's. My goal is to have a set by 1/32's at least. Downside is the Lyndex are much harder to pull into the 5C chuck. I assume they are made to the "spec" and therefore quite tight.

BTW, if you buy a 5C collet from McMaster you will likely receive a Lyndex/Nikken.

CDCO on left and Lyndex on the right:
5c compare.jpg

5c compare1 .jpg
 

zmotorsports

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#11
I have the 5C set from Matt/Precision Mathews and have been quite pleased with the overall quality of them.

That being said, I purchased the set by 1/16's and after a couple years of using collets now I really should have purchased the 1/32 set. Now I need to go in and fill in my set because I have not been able to find an add-on set that would fill in the 1/32's that I am missing.

Mike
 

wrmiller

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#12
I've been thinking about the collet closer that Matt sells for the 1340GT, so naturally I started thinking about collets as well. :)

I noticed that the 'slits' in the Chinese collet are deeper than the Japanese ones, which might explain the difference in tension required to pull the collet into the chuck. But it's just a guess. And as I've recently found myself on a much smaller fixed income than I am used to, I can spend a few hours cleaning up some threads as opposed to spending hundreds of dollars extra for collets that don't require any cleanup.

I sympathize Mike, and really don't want to end up in the same boat with you (no offense), which is why if I do this I will be looking for a full set. :D
 

Alan H

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#13
Bill, I have noticed the slits but from my experience with them it has to be the difference in the threads.

Regarding chucks, you might want to talk to Matt about the TMX set-tru 5C collet chuck. He is a dealer and will get you one. It is now made again by Bison and is a nice chuck. I am very, very pleased with the one Matt sold me.
 

chips&more

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#14
On my watchmaker size lathes I use collets/wire chucks for almost everything. But on my bigger lathe I use a Buck 3jaw ajust-tru for almost everything. And maybe a collet once every 10-15 years. Same story with a 4jaw, once every 10-15 years…Dave
 

wrmiller

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#16
On my watchmaker size lathes I use collets/wire chucks for almost everything. But on my bigger lathe I use a Buck 3jaw ajust-tru for almost everything. And maybe a collet once every 10-15 years. Same story with a 4jaw, once every 10-15 years…Dave
I have a 8" Pratt Burnerd set-tru on my 1340GT and it works great. Except for when I'm working on very small pieces, right up close to the chuck. :eek:

Using files or emery cloth that close to a chuck that big spinning at 1600-2000 rpm can skin a knuckle faster than I can blink. And I haven't even mounted the four-jaw for my lathe since getting it. Maybe someday.
 

zmotorsports

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#18
I've been thinking about the collet closer that Matt sells for the 1340GT, so naturally I started thinking about collets as well. :)

I noticed that the 'slits' in the Chinese collet are deeper than the Japanese ones, which might explain the difference in tension required to pull the collet into the chuck. But it's just a guess. And as I've recently found myself on a much smaller fixed income than I am used to, I can spend a few hours cleaning up some threads as opposed to spending hundreds of dollars extra for collets that don't require any cleanup.

I sympathize Mike, and really don't want to end up in the same boat with you (no offense), which is why if I do this I will be looking for a full set. :D
Bill, I too thought about the 5C collet closer but when I purchased my lathe Matt told me it wasn't available due to some issues. I didn't think much about it at the time because I didn't think it was a necessity but then as I started using the lathe more I really wanted to start using collets for precision and speed. Someone on here, sorry I can't remember who, recommended a fairly inexpensive collet chuck offered via ebay and I purchased one and have really liked it and use it quite a bit. I believe it was Lathemaster brand but a set tru style and works very well.

Just FYI and something to look into if you're waffling on a collet closer.

Mike
 

wrmiller

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#19
Matt's site says he has the closers in stock. My concern (other than funds) is how much more work it would be to install/uninstall a collet closers vs. a collet chuck.

I don't do much 'through the headstock work', yet, so if not required I am under the impression that I could leave the collet closer installed and simply install my 3-jaw when the need arises. But if I need to run a barrel or long workpiece through the spindle, the closer would have to come off.

Sound about right?
 

Dan_S

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#20
Maritool gets theirs from Asia and will tell you upfront that they sell them just to have them for the few customers that ask for them.
I have a 32nds set from them, and they work pretty well. The threading isn't the best I've ever seen, but they aren't that bad either.

labeled.jpg
 

zmotorsports

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#21
I have a 32nds set from them, and they work pretty well. The threading isn't the best I've ever seen, but they aren't that bad either.

View attachment 247006
So Dan, just for clarification, is the Maritool set is a fill in between the 1/16's set or a full set of 1/32" collets? If it's a fill in set I will definitely have to check this out. I should have stepped up and bought the full 1/32" set to begin with and I wouldn't be in this situation.

Thanks.

Mike.
 

Dan_S

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#22
So Dan, just for clarification, is the Maritool set is a fill in between the 1/16's set or a full set of 1/32" collets? If it's a fill in set I will definitely have to check this out. I should have stepped up and bought the full 1/32" set to begin with and I
It's a full set that goes from 1/32" to 1-5/32", 37 collets in total.
https://www.maritool.com/Collets-5C...th-37pcs-in-32nd-Increments/product_info.html

You can but collets individually buy the 64th but they are $19 each.


Something I've read and something my dad (started off life as a tool maker) mentioned to me, was to just by a 1-1/4" x 20 adjustable die to throw in the collet drawer. The point was even if the threads are pristine when you buy them, they won't stay that way forever. A die would let you chase them, and thus extend their lifespan.
 

Dan_S

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#23
I should add the collets didn't come in containers with labels like that, I purchased them after the fact and made the labels at home.
 

zmotorsports

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#24
It's a full set that goes from 1/32" to 1-5/32", 37 collets in total.
https://www.maritool.com/Collets-5C...th-37pcs-in-32nd-Increments/product_info.html

You can but collets individually buy the 64th but they are $19 each.


Something I've read and something my dad (started off life as a tool maker) mentioned to me, was to just by a 1-1/4" x 20 adjustable die to throw in the collet drawer. The point was even if the threads are pristine when you buy them, they won't stay that way forever. A die would let you chase them, and thus extend their lifespan.
Thanks for the response.

The die is a good idea to have, although I really haven't had any issues with the threads on mine, YET.

Mike
 

Dan_S

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#25
The die is a good idea to have, although I really haven't had any issues with the threads on mine, YET.
Neither have I, because when i looked dies like that aren't cheap. They start at like $50 for a no-name import from a questionable retailer and go as high as $250 for a top brand from a known retailer.

My dad said he had to do it regularly, but he was also working in a shop where collets got used all day every day.
 

Alan H

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#26
If you are buying import 5C collets as a set, I would suggest you consider buying a 1/64ths set and buy it with storage racks.

The clamping range on 5c's is very narrow so a 64ths set gets you the effective clamping.

It is also mighty handy to walk up to the rack and start poking a work piece at them until you find the right one. I keep my expensive ones in boxes and they are a pain to get to.

Here's about half a 64ths set. In the next drawer down are the rest. A friend of mine stores his racks in the vertical on the end of his 1340 lathe cabinet.

collets.jpg
 

RandyM

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#28
If you are buying import 5C collets as a set, I would suggest you consider buying a 1/64ths set and buy it with storage racks.

The clamping range on 5c's is very narrow so a 64ths set gets you the effective clamping.

It is also mighty handy to walk up to the rack and start poking a work piece at them until you find the right one. I keep my expensive ones in boxes and they are a pain to get to.

Here's about half a 64ths set. In the next drawer down are the rest. A friend of mine stores his racks in the vertical on the end of his 1340 lathe cabinet.
Sorry Alan, but I find this kinda amusing. You keep your good tools tucked away and not use them.

On the other hand, I do like how you think on storage. Now mind you, I don't have your selection yet.

KRL722 Drwr 07.JPG
 

zmotorsports

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#29
Sorry Alan, but I find this kinda amusing. You keep your good tools tucked away and not use them.

On the other hand, I do like how you think on storage. Now mind you, I don't have your selection yet.

View attachment 247011
That looks identical to mine, even stored in the bottom drawer. I had them on the wall in my last shop and I put them in the drawer just until I make up my mind for certain if I want to hang them on the wall or not. They were definitely more convenient on the wall. I have about the same amount of open spaces too.lol

Mike
 

RandyM

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#30
That looks identical to mine, even stored in the bottom drawer. I had them on the wall in my last shop and I put them in the drawer just until I make up my mind for certain if I want to hang them on the wall or not. They were definitely more convenient on the wall. I have about the same amount of open spaces too.lol

Mike
I like them in a drawer so they don't get dirt and chips all over them. Plus I have other things already on the wall. AND, at this time, I really don't use them a lot. I need to get my lath restored. Sounds like you are about to fill those open spaces.
 
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