Atlas vs the others

[Dranreb]

I just started on this forum and I do not want to rub anyone wrong but I worked in a Machine shop for 25Yrs all of are machines are manual no CNC. I built my first metal turning lathe but came across an 10 inch Atlas for a song and could not turn it down. There are some design flaws but nothing that any of us could not repair or design better. I just recently rebuilt the cross feed and updated it with bearings, a direct read dial and a cross feed nut that is twice as long as the stock one with wear adjustments. I also installed a 2 1/2 horse variable speed treadmill motor to it and other small modifications. I have used the counterparts of this lathe and found no huge differance, I dont tend to blame a machine because I could not make do what I wanted instead I try and figure out how to make it work better and that is part of the fun of it.

As for the the Zamack (pot metal) parts if and when they fail you can buy almost exact replacement change gears from Browning and yes you can weld the atlas pot metal with Aladin 3 in 1 rod with a Tig welder I have welded mountains of this stuff and it welds quit well.. I for one see no problem with the Atlas Lathe it may in its day been inexpensive but is far from being a cheap lathe.. Ray

Hi Ray, I'm sure there will be a lot of interest in your crossfeed modifications, would you like to start a new thread detailing what you have done with pictures? I only ask because I have to make a new nut soon, and any help with this would be great.

Bernard

 

[iron man]

Hi Ray, I'm sure there will be a lot of interest in your crossfeed modifications, would you like to start a new thread detailing what you have done with pictures? I only ask because I have to make a new nut soon, and any help with this would be great.

Bernard

I am not sure how many post I have to make before I can post some pictures. I made the acme tap and threaded a brass block twice as long as the stock one I now have zero back lash I have never had that before. I also made the new crossfeed screw the original bearing surface had the gear against the end with no thrust bearing the other end used the dial as a thrust surface which worked ok until you did an internal bore then I could not turn the dial. I made a complete new piece with a bearing at each end and an 1 1/2" dial the dial floats free and is no longer part of the thrust on the crossfeed screw. I kept all the stock parts but will never go back to them the nut on its own made a huge differance in the machine. Ray

 

[Dranreb]

I am not sure how many post I have to make before I can post some pictures. I made the acme tap and threaded a brass block twice as long as the stock one I now have zero back lash I have never had that before. I also made the new crossfeed screw the original bearing surface had the gear against the end with no thrust bearing the other end used the dial as a thrust surface which worked ok until you did an internal bore then I could not turn the dial. I made a complete new piece with a bearing at each end and an 1 1/2" dial the dial floats free and is no longer part of the thrust on the crossfeed screw. I kept all the stock parts but will never go back to them the nut on its own made a huge differance in the machine. Ray

Sound just what is needed, I had terrible trouble trying to mill a T nut for my new QC tool post due to slack in the screw/nut, sort of got there in the end but it was a bit scary! Click to enlarge pic, then click again on the + to get closeup.



Keep on posting useful info like that and I'm sure you will soon be able to post pics, ( mods can this be fast tracked? ) thanks for the input.

Bernard

 

[wa5cab]

The only two restrictions I'm aware of are that the first post has to be made (and be approved) in the New Members area and the 20 post requirement to get access to Downloads. But I'll check. In the meantime, Iron Man, go ahead and try to attach a photo.

Robert D.

Keep on posting useful info like that and I'm sure you will soon be able to post pics, ( mods can this be fast tracked? ) thanks for the input.

Bernard

 

[iron man]

The only two restrictions I'm aware of are that the first post has to be made (and be approved) in the New Members area and the 20 post requirement to get access to Downloads. But I'll check. In the meantime, Iron Man, go ahead and try to attach a photo.

Robert D.

I will try and do that tonight the acme tap is quite easy to make in the passed I have fill the old stock nuts with foss copper a High temp silver brazing alloy and have redrilled and retapped but on this I thought that more surface area would give better support and last longer. I am making the part to make up for wear in the future which will attach to the back of the nut but for now the extra length seems to do the trick and is a lot cheaper than buying one off ebay. I also want to make some brass half nut's as well if you do not want to machine the acme thread you can buy it in 3 foot length pretty cheap. I also made the nut with a shouldered bolt so I can just remove it to free the nut because my next project is a taper attachment. Ray

 

[iron man]

Hear is the picture of the finished dial I will have to tear it apart to show the details maybe start another post for that. I did not machine the nut at the back of the mount instead I drill a couple holes in the front and use a spanner wrench to tighten it up the nut on the front sets the bearing preload.

 

[iron man]

And here is the tap I made crude but it works well.

 

[iron man]

And this is not Atlas but it is the power feed I made for my Grizzly GO727 mill I had an Atlas but I like this one so much I sold it. The motor inside is a tiny gearhead motor out of an ICBM missile that is for controlling the directional fins it has a lot of power and is very slow when you need it.

 

[wa5cab]

Ray,

I see that you figured out the attachments bit.

Robert D.

 

[Dranreb]

Clever work you've done there Iron man, looking forward to more detail when you have the time to share it, thanks..:thumbzup: