Bi-metal Bandsaw Vs. Carbon Steel Blades

Franko

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It's time to get some more band saw blades for my horizontal band saw.

I see claims that metal cutting bi-metal blades can have 5-10 times the life of hardened carbon steel blades.
They seem to be recommended for production shops,
but are they worth the extra expense for the home shop machinist?

Are they sharper?
 
Yes thay cut better and last alot longer. That is all I use.
 
They will help the little 4X6 bandsaw's cut straighter, or at least as straight as they can cut. I tend to get mine from McMaster-Carr, Starrett brand. The last one's I've bought were from Enco, Lennox brand which I don't think are as good, but were priced great using a 20% off code.

It also help's if you get the right tooth count for the material you are cutting. Missing teeth are usually the reason I end up replacing a blade, I hate seeing the saw bumping over the bad spot.
 
Franko, don’t know how many toys you have that need blades? But maybe getting another toy…a blade welder? I have a blade welder and some rolls of blade stock from the flea market. Could not be happier. Have wondered if I could weld that bi-metal stuff? I read mixed results? But for now the blade stock I have will last a very long time. The welder also comes in handy when the blade just breaks. If it’s still sharp, I just weld it back together…Dave
 
They will help the little 4X6 bandsaw's cut straighter, or at least as straight as they can cut. I tend to get mine from McMaster-Carr, Starrett brand. The last one's I've bought were from Enco, Lennox brand which I don't think are as good, but were priced great using a 20% off code.

It also help's if you get the right tooth count for the material you are cutting. Missing teeth are usually the reason I end up replacing a blade, I hate seeing the saw bumping over the bad spot.

That is a factor in my questioning if bi-metal are worth it.
Are you better off having 2 or 3 blades of varying pitch or just one bi-metal?

After a year of moderate use, I'm still using the same non bi-metal blade that my Northern 7 x 12 horizontal band saw came with. It is still sharp, but I had a piece break free from the clamp, jam up and bend a wrinkle in the blade. A bi-metal blade is not immune to that sort of foul-up.

The saw has been getting a lot of use in the last couple months and I have noticed that while it still cuts just fine, that the finish of the cuts have gotten less smooth. I always run cutting fluid when cutting with it.

Franko, don’t know how many toys you have that need blades? But maybe getting another toy…a blade welder? I have a blade welder and some rolls of blade stock from the flea market. Could not be happier. Have wondered if I could weld that bi-metal stuff? I read mixed results? But for now the blade stock I have will last a very long time. The welder also comes in handy when the blade just breaks. If it’s still sharp, I just weld it back together…Dave

I've shopped around for a blade welder but it doesn't seem cost efficient for my use. I could get more than a lifetime supply of blades for the cost of a welder, stretching the expense out over the next ten years. I've watched a few uTube videos of guys that have made brazing jigs for grinding the bevel and clamping for brazing that look useful.
 
Franko, don’t know how many toys you have that need blades? But maybe getting another toy…a blade welder? I have a blade welder and some rolls of blade stock from the flea market. Could not be happier. Have wondered if I could weld that bi-metal stuff? I read mixed results? But for now the blade stock I have will last a very long time. The welder also comes in handy when the blade just breaks. If it’s still sharp, I just weld it back together…Dave
Bimetal blades weld and braze just like carbon steel ones.
 
Its my feeling that the little saws, 4 x 6 or 7 from HF, Enco, Grizzly , Jet etc are prone to breaking blades because one they are thin, two they are narrow, 1/2", and most importantly they are short and have to turn a tight circle around those tiny wheels. I still think these saws are a bargain for the the home shop, but they eat blades. Enco use to sell Kennemetal Agrressor blades that were awesome, I don't think they do any more. I use what ever is on sale either from Enco or the local blade shop. None of them compare to the Kennemetal but the Starrett blades even though carbon steel, are nice and cheap on sale. One way to make the blades last a lot longer is to hold the saw up with your hand a little while it starts the cut, letting it start straight before having all the weight pressing the blade any which way.

michael
 
OP, I recently upgraded to a Jet 7x12 and it came with a bimetal blade, I think a 7-10 pitch or coarser. I added a 12-14 pitch blade as I often cut thin walled tubing (.100 to .120) but I put the coarse blade on for cutting solid stock as it cuts so much faster.
 
Its my feeling that the little saws, 4 x 6 or 7 from HF, Enco, Grizzly , Jet etc are prone to breaking blades because one they are thin, two they are narrow, 1/2", and most importantly they are short and have to turn a tight circle around those tiny wheels. I still think these saws are a bargain for the the home shop, but they eat blades. Enco use to sell Kennemetal Agrressor blades that were awesome, I don't think they do any more. I use what ever is on sale either from Enco or the local blade shop. None of them compare to the Kennemetal but the Starrett blades even though carbon steel, are nice and cheap on sale. One way to make the blades last a lot longer is to hold the saw up with your hand a little while it starts the cut, letting it start straight before having all the weight pressing the blade any which way.

michael
My starrett blades were bimetal. These were on a jet 4x6 saw so my experience on the larger 7x11 saw is limited. Everything you said about the smaller 4x6 saw is true. I got many years of service with mine but I wished I'd changed it a long time ago.
 
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