center punch set

kd4gij

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What is a good center punch set that won't break the bank.
 
I make my own. I also make layout scribes.

Good sources for steel include shanks from old pulley taps and chainsaw files. When using either for a driven punch, be sure to draw the temper from the struck end to prevent shattering.

I save my broken carbide p.c.b. drills, the solid carbide type, and sharpen them for scribes. They have 1/8" shanks and I make a handle out of brass to hold them, drilling an 1/8" socket and securing with super glue.
 
Starrett is a bit over priced. even on eBay for used sets.
 
Look on Ebay, General, B&S, Starret. I have 2, a small and a large. plus a couple of automatics. I prefer the 2 manual over the auto's but still use the autos. Having a whole set, seems like overkill to me.
 
I don't need a large set. Just something that will break up small drills and taps that brake off from time to time. I make inboard boat ss shafts and have to drill a 9/64 and 11/64 hole through the end that has been center drilled. Witch tends to break bits no matter how careful you are. not often but it does happen.
 
Look for new NOS vintage Starrett. The new Starrett punches are too soft for hard steel. I'm looking at Hazet Germany and maybe Snap On.
Hazet only makes 3 center punch sizes but I bet they are very good. Center punching hard steels require good, hard punches.
With a lathe, you can make your own and then harden/temper. I've heard some people using old Allen keys to make punches.
 
Has anyone realize there is a difference between a center punch and a prick punch. And I'm not trying to be funny either.
Absolutely, Ken. I some some of each, and some sharper and blunter than either, along with ones in between center punches and prick punches. They all have specific purposes and fit specific needs. If I think I need a different angle for a job, I grind one, doesn't take more than a couple minutes from defining the need to hitting it with a hammer.
 
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