drill doctor

Doubleeboy said:
Beats the tinkle out of me, maybe because a fresh reamer gives a better surface finish.
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On the occasions when I use a reamer, I am looking for a straight hole with a decent finish. A sharp reamer will produce a really nice finish but it won't produce a consistent size or finish if the hole is not straight first. When it matters, like with a boring bar holder, I will drill to rough, bore to size and straighten and then ream to finish. Works for me.
 
I had the basic 350 model used it lots and worked great but it was only for 118 deg bits. Just finished building metal building and while building it was going dulling my good metal bits fairly rapidly (prob drilled over 1000 starter holes). Bought the better model that sharpen 135 degree bits and convex and split point bits and it worked great. Sharpened to like new. I do a lot of metal work and drilling, so well worth it to me.
 
Wreck™Wreck said:
Have never seen this in practice though in some instances it may be. Having to reverse the tool out of the hole often leaves visible artifacts on the surface.
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I was taught to never reverse the direction of rotation of a reamer. In my experience, the fastest way to screw up a nicely bored hole is to use a dull or dinged up reamer or to make the mistake of reversing spindle when removing.
 
Doubleeboy said:
I was taught to never reverse the direction of rotation of a reamer. In my experience, the fastest way to screw up a nicely bored hole is to use a dull or dinged up reamer or to make the mistake of reversing spindle when removing.
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Reversing the tool feed direction not rotational direction.
It is possible in certain applications to pass a reduced shank reamer through a hole in the cutting direction only thus eliminating the need to pull it back through in the opposite direction, this is much like using a nut tap.
 
Got a DD750 at an estate sale years ago. Brand new in the packaging. It worked okay on light resharpening duties. Too light for any major regrinds. There is a lot of flex in the plastic parts. Having used a Black Diamond and Darex sharpeners in a working shop sure spoils you. Then I found a deal on a mint condition SRD for home. That thing is worth every penny of the $400 I paid for it. I was going to toss the DD750 until I remember it was supposed to split points. Tried it out after sharpening on the SRD first. It did better than I could by hand on the sub 3/4 drills. So the DD 750 currently resides next to the SRD just to split points.
 
Yep, Ken is correct. They have been in business a long time. Still make new ones. But if you find one in good shape at a reasonable price grab it. Mine was in new condition with extra wheels. Bought it from a retiring machinist who bought one for his home shop. He barely used it. Company is still in business and parts are available if you find a fixer upper. Strongly suggest you test in person versus buying from e-bay unless the seller accepts returns.
 
I have a Drill Doctor 500 that I bought for $40 on Craigslist. It works great. If I'm sharpening 10 or more drill bits, I use the Drill Doctor. Fewer than 10 and I just do it by hand because it's quicker than setting up the machine. The DD 500 will only sharpen bits up to 1/2", so anything larger I do by hand as well. One of the car club guys has a shop, and every drill bit he owned was shot. I sharpened 75 drill bits for him on the DD.

GG
 
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