Enco 110-1340 Lathe Contactor wiring

On the Enco PDF

No label = Top right where wires R and S are going into the Main switch
No label = about center in picture is transformer with variable inputs and outputs 110, 220, 240 volts inputs etc
CS = the switch on the apron for forward/reverse
MS = mag switch shown poorly above the MS1 and MS2 mag contactors
MS1 and MS2 = mag contactors
Reset switch is the E stop
The indicator lights GL, and RL

Next the other Jet schematic
Pierre
 
Jet lathe with E stop switch

Main switch is not shown.
TC - transformer with variable inputs and outputs 110, 220, 240 volts inputs etc
SA1 - the switch on the apron for forward/reverse
KM1 and KM2 - mag contactors
KA1 - another mag contact switch that is ALWAYS on if the missing main switch is on
SB2 - JOG button
At the top where you see a 1 in circle beside the TC is the E stop switch.

Here is also the picture shown in the manual for the above schematic. All the wires in the box on the Jets are numbered and the ones to the apron switch are colored coded as well on my lathe.

I hope this is a help for somebody with Chinese lathes.
Pierre

Jet-lathe-with-estop.jpg Jet-lathe-with-estop-guts.jpg
 
What they, the builder of these lathes, need is an electrical engineer that can make a drawing that we can understand. Last year I had to service the Jet at the shop, I had a time trying to figure out what was where and how they were interlinked. I found out that the mag contactor ( KA1) that is after the main switch had burned out on one side, but getting to understand why took awhile.

If I was allowed to spend a bit more I would of put in a VFD and new motor and only kept the main switch, E stop and apron switch. Would of been cheaper after paying my time on the repair.

Sometimes throwing good money after bad is not smart. Like owning a boat!
Pierre
 
What they, the builder of these lathes, need is an electrical engineer that can make a drawing that we can understand. Last year I had to service the Jet at the shop, I had a time trying to figure out what was where and how they were interlinked. I found out that the mag contactor ( KA1) that is after the main switch had burned out on one side, but getting to understand why took awhile.

If I was allowed to spend a bit more I would of put in a VFD and new motor and only kept the main switch, E stop and apron switch. Would of been cheaper after paying my time on the repair.

Sometimes throwing good money after bad is not smart. Like owning a boat!
Pierre

did you ever get what you needed
 
Update
Based upon lots of pictures etc via emails back and forth, I removed the wiring diagram to prevent others following it due to it being not as factory. The original one is in the earlier postings. Last I heard he was up and running. See the later post for more info.
Pierre
 
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That is not correct. I have one of these lathes and had to rewire it after a fire burnt part of the wiring. The third relay in the box is a start up safety switch. It operates as a latching relay and prevents startup if the apron lever is engaged when power is applied. The safety relay is engaged by a set of contacts on the apron switch which are closed in the off postion, once closed the power is fed back to the coil and it stays latched until power is cycled off. The second item that is not on the drawing is the wires that are going to A2 go thru the 31-32 contacts of the opposite relay. These are normally closed contacts. The idea is that if one relay is activated it is impossible to activate the other. Case in point, if the reverse relay is engaged and someone should hit the Jog button the forward relay cannot close and short out the mains. It took along time and redraws of the original schematic to account for all the connections.

Jim
 
Yes I know it not as wired by the manufacture. There appears to be more issues than what was originally mentioned.
Chris found the switch that the apron lever or one of the wires was defective. I do not know what he has done since then. I had originally sent him a copy of the wiring diagram that was the same layout as his but did not work.
I had suggested early in the thread to replace everything with a VFD, likely cheaper than paying an electrician the hrs in figuring out what goes where etc. Also I suggested finding someone in his area to help if he could. He might have by now.
Pierre
 
I have a couple of questions about the Enco 1340.

There is a 12 lead, 3 phase, 3hp motor that has connections for 220v Starting (Wye)/Running (Delta) and 440v Starting (Wye)/Running (Delta) listed on the Motor Terminal Cover plate. None of the terminals were "landed" when we opened it. I do not know what diagram to follow when wiring this motor. (I thought that the switching between Wye and Delta was done in the control cabinet and that was how this machine came wired, but now I'm all confused.) Currently we have supplied a 480v Wye to the plug we intend to run the Enco from (under the assumption of my foreman that this machine CAN run on 480v).

Can the Enco 1340 Lathe be connected to 480?
It looks like there is a terminal for 440 going into the transformer in the control cabinet which we have switched the lead to from the 220v.

I will post lots of pictures tomorrow.

We're probably going to need a replacement motor because I'm fairly certain this current motor is fried.
(One fuse in the cabinet is blown, and 2 coils I think 2-5, and 7-10 do not have continuity.)
 
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