Grinder Wheels

Don't forget to check the nut. You might have to turn an external thread to a close fit with the nut and then use it to face the nut. I can't emphasize enough the importance of a square faced nut.
 
If the ID of the bushings is a close fit on the shaft then it will be very difficult for anything to push it out of square. With the smaller OD slightly undersized as I said up top, the ID of the grinding wheels becomes irrelevant. The wider the flanges section the less impact an inaccurate nut can have. Square there is certainly ideal, but this design largely eliminates the need to worry about that. The ID size is key, and making both sides at once as I described makes it easier to make sure they match.

One more thing that occurred to me is that you probably don't want your soft aluminum to bear againt that hard snap ring. Yes, it is an odd design without a hard shoulder to bear against. Put a steel washer in first (again, a close fit to the shaft would be ideal) to prevent the snap ring from damaging the flange-bushing thing.

Oh, and I didn't say it and it's probably obvious, but the combined depth of the two bushing sections must be less than the width of the wheel so that they don't meet in the middle.
 
I didn't say it shouldn't be. I said that the fit of the bushings minimizes the impact of the nut not being square. I specifically said that square is ideal. But it might not actually be necessary to go to the work to face it off if the flange and bushing are made right. If the nut is particularly far off of square then that's another matter. In the configuration I described and showed (which is a different design than the diagram you showed) it will have the least impact of any of the components. Not none, just least, again assuming it's close to square.
 
Depends on your standards I guess. For a one time job, that will bear up forever after, to me it is well worth the trouble to make it good in every way. The nut is the source of pressure to the whole system.
 
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I finished up one side. I used the stock nut and washer on the outside but used my bushing and flange on the inside. Those parts run true enough that I was able to determine that the crazy run out is actually in the wheels. I just put it all back together and honed the wheels as true as I could get them to a useable (non walking across the bench) state... I took a lot of meat off but they run okay. this will do for now.

On a side note, I have been considering a silicone carbide wheel for the few carbide tools I have been using. The aluminum oxide wheels obviously don't touch them, but the dressing wet stone I have does do a bit, but not very much. I have one tool I can't use cause it has a chip. Would be nice to grind back to a point.
Anyone with any experience want to chime in and tell me if it's worth buying?
 
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Discussions involving differing opinions are decidedly not the same as arguing. I'm sorry if it came across any other way, but at least for me it's just straightforward discussion.
 
I finished up one side. I used the stock nut and washer on the outside but used my bushing and flange on the inside. Those parts run true enough that I was able to determine that the crazy run out is actually in the wheels. I just put it all back together and honed the wheels as true as I could get them to a useable (non walking across the bench) state... I took a lot of meat off but they run okay. this will do for now.

On a side note, I have been considering a silicone carbide wheel for the few carbide tools I have been using. The aluminum oxide wheels obviously don't touch them, but the dressing wet stone I have does do a bit, but not very much. I have one tool I can't use cause it has a chip. Would be nice to grind back to a point.
Anyone with any experience want to chime in and tell me if it's worth buying?

I have a green silicon carbide wheel on one side of my 8" bench grinder. The other side has a blue AO wheel. Both are Camel brand. The silicon carbide is superior to an AO wheel for grinding carbide. They do wear down fast but that is normal. I got mine on Ebay for somewhere in the US $20.00 range. I made 3" 6061 integrated washers/bushings for them very similar to Tozguy's link above. I then use a T shape diamond wheel dresser to get them true. On my grinder (Porter Cable) I use the washer with integrated bushing on the outside and the single washer on the inside against the shaft step. The shaft threads start inside the adapter and have a taper so that just a washer would be loose and sloppy on the nut side of the shaft. This throws the whole assembly out of balance because of the off center washer. My way uses the length of the bushing to keep the wheel 90° to the shaft and centered. Please excuse the poor drawing.
grinding wheel adapter sketch 2.jpg
 
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This is a good educational thread. Lets just keep it civil please
 
You can make a dead centre easily enough. Just set up to cut a MT3 to suit your spindle out of really any old stock at hand. Then just insert it and turn a point. You will have a dead nuts square centre for the job. If you damage it or find it is out slightly after reinstalling it you can bring it back to true again simply by touching it up.
I ..... but for the spindle I have a convoluted mt2 dead center in an mt3 sleeve. Both are old and very worn and ****ty... the piece turned with a wobble... so that doesn't help either. Gonna need a new better mt3 dead center and just throw away the sleeve as its old and worn and no good now....
Dont throw it away! You WILL find a use for it one day.

Cheers Phil
 
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