How to Size a Rotary/Horizontal Table

[RandyM]

I am in the market for a rotary/horizontal table. How do I size it properly? I was originally thinking a 10 inch but now find myself questioning that choice. These suckers are heavy. Would an 8 inch be better? Currently I do not have a designated project for it, but am thinking that I would use one a lot. Sure would like your input.

 

[Frank Ford]

Seems to me the bigger the better, so I got a nice clean Yuasa 10-inch from eBay for my Bridgeport style mill. Then, I made it a 12" fixture plate:


Here's the full deal on that: http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Projects/RotabFixturePlate/rotabfixtureplate.html

Yes, it is heavy, so after a while I bought a Phase II six-incher, which is way easy to handle. I use it for smaller jobs, of course, and eventually I made it an oversize fixture plate, too. I really like fixture plates for rotary use.

Would definitely not want to be without the ten inch one, and if I had it all to do over again, I might actually get a 12 instead of the 10, with the ideal of hoisting it to the mill when I needed more capacity than the 6 could handle.

In practice, I keep the six inch table on the tiny Rusnok mill for quick use there on small jobs.

 

[8ntsane]

Hi Randy

I have a 12 inch H/V rotary table, and thing is heavy. I would say if you have a crane of some sort, to lift it on and off the table , the big ones are fine. A hydraulic lift cart works too, if you have the room for it.

My 12 is close to 200 lbs, then add a chuck to that, and heavy gets heavyer. I would probably go with what you can handle as far as moving it on & off the table. The smaller 8 inch would be fine with say a 12inch plate dropped on top. Aleast you could get it on the mill in two pieces. I have been thinking of getting a 8 inch and putting a 12 inch plate on that. I have the 12 inch, and have mounted my 14 inch face plate to it when needed.

You might want to concider how your moving your R/T from bench to mill before you commit to any one given size. With my 12 inch R/T , I avoided using it alot in the beginning, just the thought of moving such a heavy piece of metal deterred me many times. My work area is so tight, that even the lift cart goes outside in the driveway most of the time.

Now I lift it with a sky hook crane. Yes bigger is better, but if I had to do it all over again, I would choose a size that is liftable, and bolt on a sub plate of any size desired. I would use a 14-15 plate. In two pieces, that I could manage without lift carts, or cranes. If is a pain in the a$$ to move, you wont want to move it,or use it much.

Just my 02 cents worth.

Paul

 

[RandyM]

Thanks Guys,

Frank, thank you for sharing your project, greatly appreciated, very well done.

Paul, thank you as well, you bring up some great points to consider.

I do have an engine crane for moving the heavy stuff and room to use it. Just was wondering why bigger is better? Is it table size or mechanically more robust. I really like the idea of an adapter plate to increse size, that is a great idea. Now you got me thinking I need the 10 inch and add a plate. Will I regret the 8 inch after purchase and wish bigger? Just trying to make an informed decision. Really like your input, keep it coming.

 

[8ntsane]

Hi Randy

There is somthing to be said about bigger is better. Depending on what type of work your doing, getting things clamped down on the table can be a challenge. Those hold down kits that allmost every guy has for clamping things on the mill are commonly used. Small tables will be restrictive in that sense. Some times Ive used the 14 inch face plate on top of the R/T just to get a few more inches of table top, and If I need to drill and tap some holes on the face plate, I dont mind.

Adding a plate has some advantages. When your fitting a plate to your new R/T, you can allso use the dividing plates to put a series of holes in the plate, much like the dividing plate itself. Now you choose what sizes to tap them, and you have muliple spots for fasteners to hold your work down.

When looking for a new R/T, you will notice that depending on brand, and size, the table has 4 or 6 slots for T-nuts. This to me is a major concideration. AFAIK the 6-slot table makes life much easyer when mount work to your table. If in the event the table of the size you choose had only 4-slots, I would be mounting a plate to the table without a second thought. Even with a 6-sloted table, Ive had times when Im trying to mount a work piece down, and said to myself, damn, if there was only a drilled and tapped hole, right there! These are times when your going to wish you had the plate, lol.

You probably will want a table with a M/T centre. You will be suprized how many little adapters for things you will make. The extra T-slots also come in handy when mounting large objects with over hang. At first, you will be wondering just what to do with this new toy, but after some thinking outside the box, you will be constantly making up accesories to do jobs with your R/T. These are a very versatile tool, and it will test your imagination as to work holding abilitys. Ive had days when Im running out of ways to clamp things down, other days its just take one of my many vices and drop it on and go.

Will you regret getting the 8-inch? Well thats somthing that will really depend on your type of work. You will allways have the option of adding a plate to the excisting table. I like em big, but will admit,big can be a real pain at times. Personally, the 8-with a plate would do for most jobs.
I think the larger R/T are more robust.,thats why I got the 12-inch.
Size matters, some days!

Just my thoughts
Paul

 

[RandyM]

WOW Paul, this is great information, just exactly what I am looking for. This is going to help a lot in making my decision. Leaning toward the 10 inch more. Why so you suppose they just don't make them with bigger tables and the same size gearbox? Thank you very much.

Hey Pop, Good tip I will check into it. Is aluminum the material of choice on these things? Seems they may ding easy. I know weight savings and ease of maching are probably the concerns.

 

[Grandtools]

Well,, I have a few, so choosing a size isn't a problem for me, but really it all depends on the class of work you plan on doing. If I had to pick, I would say a 10 -12" is best for a B-Port,,,, but I've often used my 18" for a few jobs. If you plan on doing small work and light cutting, don't forget that feel might be an issue. A big table is a lot stiffer to rotate than an 8".

 

[8ntsane]

Randy
All good infro & tips for you.
I did forget to mention. regards to 4 and 6 slot tables and chucks.
If you have a 4 slot table, 4 jaw chucks have 4 bolts going through the front to mount them. If your doing work that requires a 4 jaw on a 6-slot table, you would need to make a adapter plate for the chuck. Needless to say the 3 jaw chucks are usually 3 bolt pattern, they just bolt up fine on the 6-slot tables.

One note on the 3 jaw chucks that the bolts go in from the rear side. All the off shore 3 jaw chucks I have run into, Ive just flipped them over , and drilled the chuck through, and use through bolts. If you go to projects, I have a post on chuck adapters, if you look, you will see a 3 jaw bolted to my R/T. That one is drilled through. Ive done that with a few chucks over the yrs with no ill effects.

I would say aluminum would be fine to make a plate. My lathe could care less what Im cutting, but a smaller machine might.

Paul 8)

 

[RandyM]

Update - Gang

Well, thanks again to everyone for their input on this. I ended up with an 8 inch Phase II indexer. Then proceded to go out and get a plain back 8 inch chuck. Well this required me to make an aluminum adapter. The adapter pilots both pieces together. I think it worked out fairly well, if I do say so myself.

 

[Rbeckett]

Thats is a sweet looking adapter plate. How much room does it eat up? Do you have a plan for maybe using a large plate and bigger chuck? Looks like it would fit with room to spare.
Bob