Liquid Sandpaper

Franko

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Has anyone ever used liquid sandpaper, deglosser, or other solvent for preparing a painted surface for a new coat of paint?

Does it work ok?
If so, what brand?

The toolbox I'm painting is probably baked enamel. Lacquer thinner doesn't strip it nor does acetone. I was cleaning the goo from a sticker and my rag turned red from the paint with acetone.

I don't plan to strip the box. I figured I'd just sand it good. It has a crinkle finish.

I plan to paint it with hammer-finish Rustoleum enamel. I wasn't planning on painting the insides of the drawers, unless there is a spray-on solution to replace sanding.
 
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Never heard of liquid sandpaper. I have used solvents to try and increase bonds between layers of epoxy. It can cause problems when drying if the old layer absorbs too much. Solvent. That was before the epoxy had fully cured though. If you use a solvent compatible with the paint your going to use and it dosnt cause any problems with the old paint I think it should work.
 
I guess I'd call that rubbing compound. There are also products for blending new paint to old. I use one called Scuff & Clean made by SEM. It says "fast cleaning and sanding action when refinishing or blending". Get it at an auto parts store in the paint and refinishing section.
 
I used it once on latex paint on stairway spindles and it worked OK. I think you have to paint while the surface is still tacky.
 
I have used liquid sandpaper in the home for pre enamel painting. I seems to take the gloss off the enamel paint and allows the new paint to stick better. For your project I believe this is not going to work. I think a light sanding scuffing to help it stick.
 
Well, that what I feared.
Hoping against hope that liquid sandpaper wasn't another of the big lies, equal to easy paint stripper.
 
Well, that what I feared.
Hoping against hope that liquid sandpaper wasn't another of the big lies, equal to easy paint stripper.
I would avoid solvents if you just want to put some bite in the surface; they could soften the underlying paint and prevent a good bond. I use them only when I intend to completely strip the old paint.
Have you thought about using a wire wheel?
 
RJ, I don't want to strip off the old paint. It is still sound and will provide a good base for the new paint.

Too much flat surface for using a wire wheel. The plan is to use a palm sander with 180 grit sandpaper. If I think it will improve it, I'll make a pass with 220 grit.

I'll just paint the faces of the drawers. There is too many ball-bearing slides to take off and reinstall. And, If I paint the insides of the drawers it will just chip and scratch, since paint takes months to cure hard enough to resist abrasion.
 
Hand sand 220 only , most folks will sand thru at edges with a palm sander or DA. Blow dust off, wipe down with a fast dry solvent, naphtha works well. Proceed with chosen finish.
 
EKHEAD, thanks for the comment.
The old finish on the toolbox is a crinkle finish. I think 180 is best for this application. I don't necessarily want to sand the finish completely smooth but to knock down the high spots so I get more tooth for the new paint to bind to. It doesn't matter if I sand through at the edges. I have a very good quarter-sheet palm sander and I have a light touch with it.

I'm repainting the cabinet with a hammered finish spray paint, so I'm not looking for a perfectly smooth reflective surface.

After I hit it with 180 grit, I'll have a look at it. If it has swirls that I think will detract, I'll give it a another buzz with 220.

Someone suggested I use etching primer. I've used it on aluminum, but never on an old finish. Directions on the can says it's for bare metal and fiberglass.
 
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