Made a replacement Logan 200 cross feed nut

craze8t8 said:
Do you happen to have the dimensions for the carriage/saddle locknut and bolt?
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I'll have to check and see if I can get that for you. I can always pull them off and try to measure for you and take a couple of pictures.
Give me some time. Really busy over here. (hard to get time to play!)

Paul
 
Silverbullet said:
Woodruff cutters are a really great keyway system , having the right cutter isn't hard to cope with or find.. Once you know the width and depth it's just center it and cut to depth . There easy to center to , a piece of paper held till it pulls it or cuts is one side , then the other side ,, usually top n bottom on Bridgeport style mill. Horizontal is sides. After you know the center just half the width and the cutter half of width figured in. Just lock up the tables and slow feed with cutting oil.
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I cut a flat with the cutter until it is the same width as the cutter, and eyeball the cutter central on the flat; the flat also is the zero point for the depth of the keyway; Machinery's Handbook has a table of depth for all the different numbers/sized of woodruff keys, I Zeroxed the page, glued it to cardboard, and posted it on the wall next to the milling machine.
 
4gsr said:
All man Paul. You take all the fun out of using a tap for cutting 7/16-16 Acme LH nut thread. I single pointed the thread in the nut I have on my 9"SBL. Of course, I was much younger and sharper at cutting the thread then than I am now. Still have the boring bar and chunk of tool steel I sharpen to cut the thread, too.
BTW- Nice job! What class of fit is the tap you used?
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I had an American "High Duty" lathe, built about 1916, all geared; the cross feed not was quite worn out, it was 3/4 - 5 square thread, left hand, of course; I made a new nut of cast iron and about 3" long with acme thread and made a new screw; yes, I still have the boring bar and tool from about 45 years ago; the cast iron nut is very long wearing compared to bronze, and I think holds lubrication better than bronze, and I would never consider using brass, it does not wear well.
 
Hi Paul, tired of changing gears, are you? Look here;

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/d/logan-lathe/6400499500.html

Was asking $1000, now $500, and all of your tooling will interchange with it. Just a thought, I have no relationship to the seller. Just I'm in west sac, and see this frickin ad every time Iook at CL. So, either you buy it (offer him less), or I have to stop looking at CL.
 
eeler1 said:
Hi Paul, tired of changing gears, are you? Look here;

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/d/logan-lathe/6400499500.html

Was asking $1000, now $500, and all of your tooling will interchange with it. Just a thought, I have no relationship to the seller. Just I'm in west sac, and see this frickin ad every time Iook at CL. So, either you buy it (offer him less), or I have to stop looking at CL.
Click to expand...

I missed it! Awww. I didn't get an email from HM showing this reply!

Paul
 
benmychree said:
I had an American "High Duty" lathe, built about 1916, all geared; the cross feed not was quite worn out, it was 3/4 - 5 square thread, left hand, of course; I made a new nut of cast iron and about 3" long with acme thread and made a new screw; yes, I still have the boring bar and tool from about 45 years ago; the cast iron nut is very long wearing compared to bronze, and I think holds lubrication better than bronze, and I would never consider using brass, it does not wear well.
Click to expand...
Ben,

If the cast iron nut is kept lubricated, it will last a long time as you said. That is what Sheldon and many other manufactures used for their cross feed nuts. But the few I've replaced that were cast iron, both the screw and nut were badly worn. Had to replace both. Yeah, the cross feed screw and bronze nut I made for my Sheldon is still like new. Only has about .005" slop for 38 years!
 
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