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Metal Tags For Threading On Lathe

Martin W

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#1
The metal tag on my Martin DLZ502 is basically unreadable. They couldn't have put it in a worse spot. 60 years of grime and tools laying on it.
Is the a way to kind of restore it so it's at least able to be read? I've tried cleaning it with degreaser. It helps a bit when you wipe oil or something wet.
Any ideas? Or does someone have the same lathe that you could take a photo and send to me?
Thanks
Martin


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Martin W

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#4
Yes I was going to order the manual. Groundhog you do outstanding work and your website is great.
Thanks
Martin
 

Martin W

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#6
Hi Bill
Would your manual have a page with the threading chart?
Thanks
Martin


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wildo

Active Member
Active Member
#7
Is the tag etched brass? I'm in the process of restoring the threading nameplate for my SB 9A. I don't plan on posting pictures until probably next weekend, but I can give you a rundown of the process I'm using:

  • Clean the part in industrial degreaser (ok for brass, not ok for aluminum parts)
  • Wire brush with brass brush
  • Use liquid mask found in art supply stores to mask off areas I don't want painted
  • Spray your color coat
  • Remove liquid mask, mask fresh painted areas, spray another color if desired (multi color plate, obviously)
  • At this point I plan on baking the part in a low temp oven for a while to make the enamel ultra hard
  • Use fine grit sandpaper on granite plate and sand surface of part to expose raised brass letters.

This is not the brand of liquid mask that I'm using, but it's the same basic stuff. I did find that some require mask removal with a pencil eraser while others can be removed with only your finger. I opted for the finger removable stuff.
http://www.michaels.com/winsor-newton-water-colour-medium-art-masking-fluid/D004134S.html


_____
On the odd chance you don't see the point in the above process, this is the end result I'm going for:
img108.jpg
 

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Martin W

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#8
Nice job Wildo, on your lathe, look better than new.
Thanks for your help
Martin


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Groundhog

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#10
Martin,
I followed the link to the pictures of your project. You are doing an amazing job. The before and after shots really show how much work you are putting into that lathe.

Keep the reports and pictures coming!
 

USNFC

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#11
If it is just black on aluminum, you could get them laser etched by a local print shop. That is what I had to do with my standard modern spindle rpm plate. I picked up a small sheet of aluminum at my local tractor supply.
 

wildo

Active Member
Active Member
#12
Ok- I changed my mind. Here's a sneak peak. I'm posting because after working on this tonight, I have some lessons learned to share.

1) I was wrong about sanding on a hard flat surface like the granite block. For one, the nameplate is probably not flat, unless it's new. And for two, you can't tell how aggressive you're getting and might sand too far. I did this in a couple areas. I think I'll be able to fix it, but it certainly won't look as good as it could have.
2) The liquid mask works exceptionally well.
3) 1000 grit might be a bit too course, actually. Next time I'll try 1500 grit.
4) Use a small strip of paper on your finger rather than pushing the nameplate against a flat surface. I found I had far more control this way.
5) Don't be afraid to use an exacto blade on stubborn areas- going to town with the sandpaper will inevitably take off paint that you didn't want off.

That's it for now... I have some touchup to do, and then onto the black areas...

IMG_6656_zpsbvzbqdfy.jpg
 

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astjp2

Active User
Active Member
#17
Is that label embossed from the back? or was the panel acid etched? Tim

Ok- I changed my mind. Here's a sneak peak. I'm posting because after working on this tonight, I have some lessons learned to share.

1) I was wrong about sanding on a hard flat surface like the granite block. For one, the nameplate is probably not flat, unless it's new. And for two, you can't tell how aggressive you're getting and might sand too far. I did this in a couple areas. I think I'll be able to fix it, but it certainly won't look as good as it could have.
2) The liquid mask works exceptionally well.
3) 1000 grit might be a bit too course, actually. Next time I'll try 1500 grit.
4) Use a small strip of paper on your finger rather than pushing the nameplate against a flat surface. I found I had far more control this way.
5) Don't be afraid to use an exacto blade on stubborn areas- going to town with the sandpaper will inevitably take off paint that you didn't want off.

That's it for now... I have some touchup to do, and then onto the black areas...

IMG_6656_zpsbvzbqdfy.jpg
 

Attachments

wildo

Active Member
Active Member
#18
Is that label embossed from the back? or was the panel acid etched? Tim
I'm not sure what process was used to create it. The back of the label is smooth. The letters/lines on the front are raised off of the background. I guess that would be acid etched?
 

Martin W

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#19
Martin,
unfortunately the manual does not have any clear pics. here is the manual I have.
I never saw that you posted the manual until today. Thank you very very much. My son speaks and reads French so understanding will not be a problem.
Martin W