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[4]

Mill drill stand pics post up what ya got please

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umahunter

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#1
Well I pulled the trigger and ordered a precision matthews pm932m . which will hopefully be here end of next week :) I'm debating on putting it on my old stand and when I sell my jet mill drill they'll probably want that stand so I'll need to build a new one. I'm thinking of something with drawers underneath but I'm interested in what others have done and liked .open to any and all opinions pics would be great to show off what ya got thanks :D I'm so stoked to get and new toy :)
 

HBilly1022

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#2
Congratulations on the new machine!!!

I bought a mill drill (rong fu clone) about a year ago and bought the stand too but didn't like the stand and took it back. The stand had a door on the side and only one shelf in it. To access it, I would have to get on my knees under the table and knew that I would whack my head when I got back up. So I built a temp one (still using it) out of wood, with plans to build a steel one with full extension drawers that opened to the front. I finally started on the new stand but have only cut the steel framing pieces so far. I built something similar for my little lathe and the mill stand will be the same concept, with 75lb full extension drawers. Here's a pic of the little lathe stand.

1511395011214.png

Good luck with your build and make sure to post some pics of it.
 

slamadeleine

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#3
I purchased this mill-drill used and the original stand came all warped and busted so I built this one. The original was 18wx26dx24h, this one is 28wx31dx29h. Used 1-1/4 steel tube 1/4 wall all around and made drawers (24x30x4) to hold all the stuff. This stand weighs about 350 pounds (plus about 350 pounds of tooling ), it dampens vibrations a lot compared to the factory one.

I actually regret not making two columns of drawers. There would have been enough room underneath the chip tray, you can never have too much storage!!

I really appreciate the adjustable feet, it allows me to put the mill level on my slanted garage floor.

I made the chiptray almost twice as wide as the factory one and it could be wider, I still get many chips on the ground.

I used enamel paint, some cutting fluids have bubbled it so if I was to repaint it, I would look for tougher paint...

1511396028126673343625.jpg 1511396091897328885823.jpg
 

RJSakowski

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#4
The stand for my mill/drill is made of 2-1/2" and 2" x 1/8" wall square tubing. 1/4" plywood was used for a cover for the top and shelves. Feet are 1/4" plate. Total weight is around 200 lbs. It has been in service for more than 35 years with no problems.
Mill-Drill Stand.JPG
 

Superburban

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#5
I don't have a pic handy. I had an old government grey steel desk. Took the top off, then cut it down, so it is just a bit wider then the two columns of drawers. Just picture the center drawer removed, the two columns of drawers moved together, and it all bolted together, and the top cut down to fit.

With how tight my space is, I am thinking along the line of what R J did above, but have lockable wheels.
 

Silverbullet

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#6
I've thought of buying the new roll box that HF is selling its black and looks better then there red models. They have bearing slides will hold a large amount of weight and tooling. Or you can build your own . Even watch for auctions near you , I got a rolling workbench with two doors and shelves for $25.00 total, bid was $20.00 . It's very heavy came from a machine shop near me. It may get my mill drill from HF on it.
 

HBilly1022

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Dec 22, 2015
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#7
I purchased this mill-drill used and the original stand came all warped and busted so I built this one. The original was 18wx26dx24h, this one is 28wx31dx29h. Used 1-1/4 steel tube 1/4 wall all around and made drawers (24x30x4) to hold all the stuff. This stand weighs about 350 pounds (plus about 350 pounds of tooling ), it dampens vibrations a lot compared to the factory one.

I actually regret not making two columns of drawers. There would have been enough room underneath the chip tray, you can never have too much storage!!

I really appreciate the adjustable feet, it allows me to put the mill level on my slanted garage floor.

I made the chiptray almost twice as wide as the factory one and it could be wider, I still get many chips on the ground.

I used enamel paint, some cutting fluids have bubbled it so if I was to repaint it, I would look for tougher paint...

View attachment 247635 View attachment 247636
WOW! I love your stand. Very nice work. Wish I had the skills and equipment to make metal drawers. The wooden ones take up more room and aren't as durable. I really like the chip tray too. I'm constantly putting tools on the table (which I don't like) or anything else I can find nearby that has a flat surface. I may have to alter my plans for the mill stand after seeing yours.
 

C-Bag

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#8
At first I didn't much like the table that came with my RF-30. It seemed too big, but after just a couple of projects I came to love the extra table space for tools and equipment like my rotary table. I added castors to be able to move it if necessary which has come in very handy when working on the mill or doing big projects. I got a bucket full of medical equipment castors for $20 at a yard sale and because of the square shaft made them so I could accurately level the machine once moved.
 

Attachments

umahunter

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Jan 21, 2014
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#9
I purchased this mill-drill used and the original stand came all warped and busted so I built this one. The original was 18wx26dx24h, this one is 28wx31dx29h. Used 1-1/4 steel tube 1/4 wall all around and made drawers (24x30x4) to hold all the stuff. This stand weighs about 350 pounds (plus about 350 pounds of tooling ), it dampens vibrations a lot compared to the factory one.

I actually regret not making two columns of drawers. There would have been enough room underneath the chip tray, you can never have too much storage!!

I really appreciate the adjustable feet, it allows me to put the mill level on my slanted garage floor.

I made the chiptray almost twice as wide as the factory one and it could be wider, I still get many chips on the ground.

I used enamel paint, some cutting fluids have bubbled it so if I was to repaint it, I would look for tougher paint...

View attachment 247635 View attachment 247636
What size leveling feet did you use
 

Railin93

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Aug 19, 2017
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#10
Did mine for less than $30...all 2x6 and almost perfectly level on its own...gonna put 6 leveling feet on it but i love it as is... 20171124_204856.jpg
 

umahunter

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Jan 21, 2014
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#12
Sorry for the delay I just found out about the bell at the top of the forum. The levelling feet are those:
LPST-1.88-1/2X13-4.00-C1 (8T4LIT)
From JWWinco.
Thanks those are the same ones I ordered starting the stand build today :) :) :)
 

Groundhog

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Jan 20, 2016
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#14
Sorry about the bad pics.
Stand is made from 1.5" medium wall square tubing. Right side is a NEMA box to house electronics (with thermostat controlled fans that I don't think have ever come on in 5 years). At the front center, on the floor is a barely visible pancake hydraulic cylinder (red). There is another cylinder under each rear corner. On the left rear (mid-height) are 3 ball valves that control & lock the oil flow to each cylinder individually. Oil pressure is supplied from a port-o-power type hand pump which is detachable after mill leveling is done. (Works good to tilt the pan towards the coolant outlet hole for fast emptying.) High grade casters make for very easy moving.
Enclosure is made from commercially available extruded aluminum attached to a home built aluminum pan. Side panels are PVC sheet. I've had a lot of trouble keeping coolant from dripping on to the floor. The PVC and aluminum framework need sealed better. I've tried all sorts of sealants (as evident with the yellowed joints, but the coolant always seems to win. I recently tried a new type of silicone that seems encouraging. Will see how that works with time.
Spindle is not installed in the mill in these pictures. It is getting new class 7 bearings.

mill stand 1.jpg

mill stand 2.jpg
 
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