Mill drill stand pics post up what ya got please

Sorry for the delay I just found out about the bell at the top of the forum. The levelling feet are those:
LPST-1.88-1/2X13-4.00-C1 (8T4LIT)
From JWWinco.
Thanks those are the same ones I ordered starting the stand build today :) :) :)
 
Sorry about the bad pics.
Stand is made from 1.5" medium wall square tubing. Right side is a NEMA box to house electronics (with thermostat controlled fans that I don't think have ever come on in 5 years). At the front center, on the floor is a barely visible pancake hydraulic cylinder (red). There is another cylinder under each rear corner. On the left rear (mid-height) are 3 ball valves that control & lock the oil flow to each cylinder individually. Oil pressure is supplied from a port-o-power type hand pump which is detachable after mill leveling is done. (Works good to tilt the pan towards the coolant outlet hole for fast emptying.) High grade casters make for very easy moving.
Enclosure is made from commercially available extruded aluminum attached to a home built aluminum pan. Side panels are PVC sheet. I've had a lot of trouble keeping coolant from dripping on to the floor. The PVC and aluminum framework need sealed better. I've tried all sorts of sealants (as evident with the yellowed joints, but the coolant always seems to win. I recently tried a new type of silicone that seems encouraging. Will see how that works with time.
Spindle is not installed in the mill in these pictures. It is getting new class 7 bearings.

mill stand 1.jpg

mill stand 2.jpg
 
I purchased this mill-drill used and the original stand came all warped and busted so I built this one. The original was 18wx26dx24h, this one is 28wx31dx29h. Used 1-1/4 steel tube 1/4 wall all around and made drawers (24x30x4) to hold all the stuff. This stand weighs about 350 pounds (plus about 350 pounds of tooling ), it dampens vibrations a lot compared to the factory one.

I actually regret not making two columns of drawers. There would have been enough room underneath the chip tray, you can never have too much storage!!

I really appreciate the adjustable feet, it allows me to put the mill level on my slanted garage floor.

I made the chiptray almost twice as wide as the factory one and it could be wider, I still get many chips on the ground.

I used enamel paint, some cutting fluids have bubbled it so if I was to repaint it, I would look for tougher paint...

View attachment 247635View attachment 247636
What gauge sheet metal did you use for your drawers ???
 
I’m not too familiar with the gauge notation but they are 0.100” when I measure them. I ended up reinforcing the bottom with a middle splitter because of the width as there was sag. I learned afterwards that I could have had two break lines crosswise in the bottom to prevent the sag.

I used full extension drawer slides with auto close rated for 150# per drawer. I see now that they are not going to last as long as they would in a kitchen because I tend to work around with drawers open and grit gets in them. I’ll need to learn to close them!

The autoclose feature is nice because that way you can’t catch your knee on a drawer that isn’t completely closed and the drawers won’t open because of the machine vibrations.
 
Sorry about the bad pics.
Stand is made from 1.5" medium wall square tubing. Right side is a NEMA box to house electronics (with thermostat controlled fans that I don't think have ever come on in 5 years). At the front center, on the floor is a barely visible pancake hydraulic cylinder (red). There is another cylinder under each rear corner. On the left rear (mid-height) are 3 ball valves that control & lock the oil flow to each cylinder individually. Oil pressure is supplied from a port-o-power type hand pump which is detachable after mill leveling is done. (Works good to tilt the pan towards the coolant outlet hole for fast emptying.) High grade casters make for very easy moving.
Enclosure is made from commercially available extruded aluminum attached to a home built aluminum pan. Side panels are PVC sheet. I've had a lot of trouble keeping coolant from dripping on to the floor. The PVC and aluminum framework need sealed better. I've tried all sorts of sealants (as evident with the yellowed joints, but the coolant always seems to win. I recently tried a new type of silicone that seems encouraging. Will see how that works with time.
Spindle is not installed in the mill in these pictures. It is getting new class 7 bearings.

View attachment 249244

View attachment 249245

Go to your local auto parts store and get some "Right Stuff" sealant. I used it on my enclosure and have zero leaks.
 
Go to your local auto parts store and get some "Right Stuff" sealant. I used it on my enclosure and have zero leaks.
I've used that on engines and the like but never thought to try it on the enclosure. I might even have some sitting on the shelf. I'll give it a try.
 
Came across pics of the table I built for my HF RF30 clone.

It's just based around 4x4 verticals with 2x6 or 2x8 "straddling" the 4x4's, and 35in x 24in 3/4in ply at the top and the bottom shelf. Top view and underside pics below.

Nothing fancy but it held up beautifully for 15 years until I got my Bridgeport (as did the HF RF30).

Tabletop_Mill2.JPG

Bench_Mill_35x24_Milling_Bench_detail.jpg
 
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I finished the mill table and posted pics in the Project of the Day thread but thought I would post them here too, as this is the more appropriate thread.
1515369001832.png

1515369052379.png
 
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