Need Milling Machine Advise

[JR49]

So, right now, with the health issues I'm facing, the last thing I thought I would be doing is looking at a milling machine. But, you know how that goes, that's when a good deal shows up. The thing is, I could be talked out of it easily because of one issue. I have convinced myself, based on what members have posted, that I want a Square collum mill. A knee mill would be perfect but I don't have the room. Anyway, this is one of the larger Enco mill/drill units, with a ROUND collum (don't know model # yet) HOWEVER, it comes with a cabinet FULL of tooling, a vise, and X axis power feed, a good price, and the add says He has owned it since new, and used it very little. So, to help me decide if I should even consider this, (which will drive the wife nuts, considering I'm starting 45 days of radiation therapy in a few days) , just how hard is it to Re-align whatever needs to be re-aligned after the head is raised or lowered. As you can tell, I've never run, or even been up close to a mill. So all advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks, JR49

 

[rock_breaker]

JR49,

I have an Enco mill similar to what you have described. When you raise or lower the head (all the milling parts) the reference points may change simply due to being mounted on the round column. When I was forced into altering the vertical position of the head I lost both the X and Y alignment, which is not difficult to regain by resetting your "(0)" points on the scales. A case in point is when you have to move the head to change tooling the tool may not come down in the same spot on your work piece. It is difficult to describe but it can be related to taking a work piece out of a three jaw lathe chuck-- it hardly ever comes back to the same alignment. Fortunately on the mill you can plan around this when you first set up or make a way you can adjust the table after moving the head.

There is a post somewhere that a machinist overcame this by rigging a flexing bar system similar to that used on the front wheels on automobiles that kept the mill head in line while being moved up or down.

Hope you get through your radiation therapy satisfactorily and you can enjoy your mill.

I have found that figuring out how to hold a work piece is more of a challenge that doing the actual work.

Have a good day.

Ray

 

[rdean]

I own an RF30 also in fact two of them one manual and the other servo CNC. I use one or the other almost daily but seldom do I have to move the head after the job is started.
Planing is the key so you don't have to move the head. I had a RF45 CNC that I sold recently because I didn't need three mills.
Ray

 

[davidh]

exactly as stated above. . . planning is the key. and good luck with your treatment. i had a similar 45 day treatment plan about 5 years ago. . . ya get pretty tired of / from it as it burns away the bad stuff. . .

 

[den-den]

"it comes with a cabinet FULL of tooling, a vise, and X axis power feed, a good price" That would be enough to get my attention and most likely my money.

 

[brino]

I don't have much to say about the choice of mill; it does sound like a under-used machine with lots of tooling.
Since the tooling can cost a significant amount, it sounds like a good deal.

However, there is a bigger picture..........
If it gives you another reason to look past/get thru the short-term pain for long-term gain it is worth every cent!
In the short term you may not feel up to "shop time", but you can tune in here for some comfort and start planning your first few mill projects.

The mill will add new capabilities to your shop, things that were difficult before can become possible.

All the best!
-brino

 

[chevydyl]

you say you dont have room for a knee mill, but what about a mini knee mill? like the clausing, or the burke i think, theres a few companys who have em, grizzly still makes new ones
ive never run a mini mill like the RF types, but i bought my Bport clone for 950, and i would never get anything smaller than that

 

[Vegemitesandwich]

I have an old Jet-16 round column from the 70s' battered and beaten, it's mine, it was free, it is a pain in the butt. Yes you have to plan, will the longest tool come out, will the shortest tool reach. If the old girl weren't challenging enough, the hand-wheel indexes don't zero. They are pinned to the lead-screws you just have to remember what number your zero fell on. So I was wondering what you old timers did way back when your mill was powered by waterwheel.

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

I had a Burke mill before my bridgeport excellent mill, a case 2nd, would not have even bought a Bridgeport but I got such a good deal on one $500

I fed the part online and it only came up with the company: tolomatic hamel part # 02360460

I'm wondering what it does. It looks like it's an internal gear box. I bought it for $150. Owner said it was $300.

He has 3 more to sell me but before I buy I want to know more about it. I'm building some 2-ft gauge locomotives and needed to gear down the motor to produce more torque to pull some kiln cars. I was going to mount one on each of the two axles so I was thinking to buy one more. Hoping that they sync together well.

Thanks

you say you dont have room for a knee mill, but what about a mini knee mill? like the clausing, or the burke i think, theres a few companys who have em, grizzly still makes new ones
ive never run a mini mill like the RF types, but i bought my Bport clone for 950, and i would never get anything smaller than that

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[kwoodhands]

I wouldn't be concerned about the round column. The worst that could happen after raising or lowering the head is you have to re-center the X Y tables. I made points for each size end mill holder that I install to center a part. I remove the cutter ,replace with a point and the center the table. Takes a minute or so.
mike