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New (to me) Logan 200
- Thread starter TomKro
- Start date
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- Joined
- Jul 27, 2013
- Messages
- 295
Hey;
I know the territory you are treading. I own #15235 (slightly older than yours). I have it completely down right now. It had tremendous damage to 4 of the gears. They had been broken, brazed, and broken again to the point that the lathe would not run. The back gear rack was also missing. I used the block of wood and sledge hammer method to remove my spindle. It only took one moderate biff. A used spindle that I bought for the cone gear had a super stuck spindle bearing lock ring. I heated and wrenched and heated and wrenched and it would not budge. One day I tried it and it just spun off. It had its time to come off and that was that! I've been held up for a couple of months now, but have been doing some very little things to move it forward. Mostly just looking at it. I milled the mounting surfaces on the bed supports the other day. Took quite a bit of cutting to true them up, and that should allow things to square up and level a little better. I have stripped almost everything to bare iron, and have some items painted in the proper dark blue/grey hue that Logan used. Benjamin Moore Baby Seal Grey #2119-30 if you are interested. Alkyd enamel. Dead ringer for the original. You can find almost anything for these on ebay, and Logan Actuator (lathe.com) still has almost every part you need brand new for these if you can afford that route or can't find it otherwise. The Logan Yahoo group is also pretty keen.
Keep the reports coming. Might get me off my arse and back to the rebuild!
I know the territory you are treading. I own #15235 (slightly older than yours). I have it completely down right now. It had tremendous damage to 4 of the gears. They had been broken, brazed, and broken again to the point that the lathe would not run. The back gear rack was also missing. I used the block of wood and sledge hammer method to remove my spindle. It only took one moderate biff. A used spindle that I bought for the cone gear had a super stuck spindle bearing lock ring. I heated and wrenched and heated and wrenched and it would not budge. One day I tried it and it just spun off. It had its time to come off and that was that! I've been held up for a couple of months now, but have been doing some very little things to move it forward. Mostly just looking at it. I milled the mounting surfaces on the bed supports the other day. Took quite a bit of cutting to true them up, and that should allow things to square up and level a little better. I have stripped almost everything to bare iron, and have some items painted in the proper dark blue/grey hue that Logan used. Benjamin Moore Baby Seal Grey #2119-30 if you are interested. Alkyd enamel. Dead ringer for the original. You can find almost anything for these on ebay, and Logan Actuator (lathe.com) still has almost every part you need brand new for these if you can afford that route or can't find it otherwise. The Logan Yahoo group is also pretty keen.
Keep the reports coming. Might get me off my arse and back to the rebuild!
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Steve: Thanks for the encouragement. It might be a while before any smoking chips hit the floor, but I am enjoying just getting it together. I think my wife is jealous of all the time I spend with Logan.
Redlineman: I’ve been stripping parts also. I was washing parts with old stale gas, and stripping with something that advertised a “fresh citrus scent”. It was really hot and humid when I did the stripping, and all I could think of was that there’s probably a “fresh citrus scent” somewhere in hell. I switched to a cleaning product called Krud Kutter and it works well and even takes off a good bit of paint. I picked up a can of that Benjamin Moore paint, and it does match really well. I didn’t strip the cast belt sheave, and I had trouble telling new paint from old. The paint store said it can go direct onto clean metal, but I have a lot of grey oil base primer, so I think I’ll still prime the bare metal before the top coat.
Burnrider: I sure wish I had a decent bandsaw. For plastic I just use a hacksaw. For metal, I have a decent abrasive chop saw, but I have to haul it out in the yard to use it.
Can anyone please advise on a few new issues?
a. I may have trashed a decent spindle bearing (the small one). I pried off one of the shields to get to the inside to clean it out, and now I’m wondering if there’s something I can use to substitute for the missing shield on one side?
b. I didn’t plan on pulling off the nameplates for painting, but the edges look pretty nasty - so I’d like to get it off. The holes for the drive rivets are not thru holes, so I guess they have to be drilled out. Any ideas on the right way to do this? I have a dinky benchtop drill press, but nothing special in the way of bits. Does anyone possibly have a source for those old style short drive rivets?
Many thanks for all the assistance.
TomKro
Redlineman: I’ve been stripping parts also. I was washing parts with old stale gas, and stripping with something that advertised a “fresh citrus scent”. It was really hot and humid when I did the stripping, and all I could think of was that there’s probably a “fresh citrus scent” somewhere in hell. I switched to a cleaning product called Krud Kutter and it works well and even takes off a good bit of paint. I picked up a can of that Benjamin Moore paint, and it does match really well. I didn’t strip the cast belt sheave, and I had trouble telling new paint from old. The paint store said it can go direct onto clean metal, but I have a lot of grey oil base primer, so I think I’ll still prime the bare metal before the top coat.
Burnrider: I sure wish I had a decent bandsaw. For plastic I just use a hacksaw. For metal, I have a decent abrasive chop saw, but I have to haul it out in the yard to use it.
Can anyone please advise on a few new issues?
a. I may have trashed a decent spindle bearing (the small one). I pried off one of the shields to get to the inside to clean it out, and now I’m wondering if there’s something I can use to substitute for the missing shield on one side?
b. I didn’t plan on pulling off the nameplates for painting, but the edges look pretty nasty - so I’d like to get it off. The holes for the drive rivets are not thru holes, so I guess they have to be drilled out. Any ideas on the right way to do this? I have a dinky benchtop drill press, but nothing special in the way of bits. Does anyone possibly have a source for those old style short drive rivets?
Many thanks for all the assistance.
TomKro
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2011
- Messages
- 3,472
Tom, Be very careful drilling out drive screws. They are very hard and I know, I found out the hard way and a couple of drills later. My advise is to try and pull or pry them out. If you can not do that, break them off and just re-locate new holes with new drive screws. You can cover the broken ones with some JB Weld sanded down and paint to make it look good as new. The drive screws are available at McMaster Carr here.
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After doing much of what was discussed here, though it may be too late, I figured I'd give my two cents, just for the electronic record (which has helped me out quite a bit in the past). As for chuck and capture nut removal this is what I did: I took the chuck off first. What I did was put a screwdriver in the hole for the oil setscrew in the pulley and rested this against the headstock casting, then just spun the chuck off with a punch. This way any damage would occur to the screwdriver (and less likely the pulley) rather than the more fragile gear teeth. I did the capture nut similarly, with the screwdriver in the setscrew hole but for a punch I used a little flatblade screwdriver to spin it off. This helped dig in a little, after I tried with a pin punch that just kept slipping out.
As for your current issues this is just what came to my mind:
a) The bearing shield: A thin piece of sheet, a compass, a sabre saw, a half round file, and a little bit of patience.
b) The plates: I would just grind the heads off the rivets with a rotary tool. As for replacing them I would just epoxy them back on after putting a little bead of solder where the rivet holes used to be.
As for your current issues this is just what came to my mind:
a) The bearing shield: A thin piece of sheet, a compass, a sabre saw, a half round file, and a little bit of patience.
b) The plates: I would just grind the heads off the rivets with a rotary tool. As for replacing them I would just epoxy them back on after putting a little bead of solder where the rivet holes used to be.
RandyM: When I searched on-line, I thought those things were called drive rivets, so I didn't find them. Thanks a bunch for the link. Thanks also for the warning about the material hardness. I hope to avoid damaging the nameplate, so I think I'll try to get the heads off with a Dremmel tool per Nayr's suggestion.
Nayr: I have some thin sheet, but not so sure about the patience. I'll have to give it a try and see if I can get it to come out reasonably clean. Thanks for the ideas.
TomKro
Nayr: I have some thin sheet, but not so sure about the patience. I'll have to give it a try and see if I can get it to come out reasonably clean. Thanks for the ideas.
TomKro
John:
That's a whole new level of "careful" for me. I'm guessing I'd have to find one of those mini locking plier tools to try to grab the flats(?). I'm really wondering what my chances are of getting out four in a row that way. If I can get them out that way, I'll definitely post some pics. Thanks for the idea.
Presently, I have some painted parts drying in the garage. Can't make much progress this weekend, as I promised my wife a little road trip.
TomKro
That's a whole new level of "careful" for me. I'm guessing I'd have to find one of those mini locking plier tools to try to grab the flats(?). I'm really wondering what my chances are of getting out four in a row that way. If I can get them out that way, I'll definitely post some pics. Thanks for the idea.
Presently, I have some painted parts drying in the garage. Can't make much progress this weekend, as I promised my wife a little road trip.
TomKro
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2013
- Messages
- 736
l take it you can not get to the back side of the drive screws?
Can you put tape down to protect the badge, and get them to turn with a chisel?
if you decide to grind them,support your die grinder firmly on a surface,grind the 2 bottom
ones,then place stock on to of the surface, and do the top of the drive pin.
hope this is understandable?
Can you put tape down to protect the badge, and get them to turn with a chisel?
if you decide to grind them,support your die grinder firmly on a surface,grind the 2 bottom
ones,then place stock on to of the surface, and do the top of the drive pin.
hope this is understandable?