New (to me) Logan 200

Are you sure your not talking about engaging the back gear with the bull gear still locked to the cone pulley?

also sounds like your rod is installed wrong. Should pull out to engage,

No, maybe you did say pull out?
 
Last edited:
yes you both are right--I pull the knob out to lock it and is this the correct method for me to use? I've never had a problem doing it this way for the 30 yrs I've used it and I have never had to bang hard on my chuck to release it. thanks for your info. Dave --note **My lathe was missing the back gear in my lathe since I bought it--I did buy a back gear last year for it with some broken teeth, but I need to fix them before installing it on my shaft.
 
Last edited:
Dave Smith:

From this and your previous post, it appears that you locked the spindle by using the back gear and engaging the pin in the bull gear. I didn't quite understand how that would fully lock the spindle if your lathe didn't have the back gear installed, but maybe I misunderstood. I'm guessing that with the drive belt engaged, there would be resistance to spindle motion.

To clarify what I did to loosen the chuck from my spindle, please realize that my lathe was (still is) in pieces, so no belt was attached. I was concerned about damaging the bull gear, so I started with the back gear engaged, but the bull gear disengaged. I spun the cone (and the back gear) by hand, and then snapped the chuck backwards. I was guessing that the load on the bull gear from the inertia of spinning the cone was less than the load the gear teeth would see if I locked everything up and twisted hard on the chuck. In hindsight, I certainly over-analyzed the situation.


yes you both are right--I pull the knob out to lock it and is this the correct method for me to use? I've never had a problem doing it this way for the 30 yrs I've used it and I have never had to bang hard on my chuck to release it. thanks for your info. Dave --note **My lathe was missing the back gear in my lathe since I bought it--I did buy a back gear last year for it with some broken teeth, but I need to fix them before installing it on my shaft.
 
Chuck removal only. Anything wrong with chucking up a nut, using an impact wrench with a gloved hand on the pulleys for some resistance? No risk to the back gear/bull gear- some to the chuck itself.
 
Very sorry for the late reply.

burnrider: It sounds like your idea of holding the cone and using an impact wrench would be best for minimizing the potential for gear damage. It makes sense to me to start at the lowest potential for damage, and work your way up, if needed.

robert1352: Thanks for the encouragement, but sometimes I feel like I'm taking two steps backward for each step forward.

When I pulled the headstock apart, I snapped off an easy out trying to remove the setscrew from the cone oiler port. Last week I visited a few machine shops in the area, but no one in town has a EDM machine to burn it out. At least I was given a contact for a place with an EDM that isn't too far away.

I'm still trying to get the capture nut off the spindle. I gripped the spindle via the sides of the bull gear, used a little heat on the nut, and still no luck. I was gripping it hard (no soft jaws) and I still couldn't hold it (gear popping out of the vise). I have to order some brass or something with a little give, and try the air hammer as suggested by mrbreezee1.

The good news is that I'm taking a road trip to see stonehands next week. With a little luck, the parts he hunted around for will match what I have. Many thanks stonehands, you've been a huge help.

If I can just get done with the yard work and finish the car maintenance, I can get back to breaking Logan parts.
 
Mini Update on the sloooow Logan effort:

I found a local shop to burn the broken "easy out" from my flat belt cone. They did a beautiful job at a very reasonable price. They "upsized" to a 5/16 thread, and salvaged the part.

Per mrbreezeet1's idea, I used an air chisel to break loose the capture nut on the spindle bearing. Three or four hits and it was off. Thanks mrbreezeet1, for the help. Holding the bull gear tight in a vise was part of the problem. I ended up using 0.093 inch, 6x6 lead sheet from an industrial supplier to make a decent set of soft jaw covers. The 0.093 inch material cut easy with a chisel and was easy to shape, in case anyone else has to do this.

Also, I got lucky on a Craigslist deal. I was still hunting for an inexpensive spindle that I could use, and needed to replace some carriage parts. A fellow up in Trenton NJ had a partial model 210 headstock and a carriage for sale. The headstock looked a little rough, but the spindle came out easy and looks usable. The carriage was not from the same machine, and appears to be in excellent condition - almost no play, not even any dirty grease. It's so nice, I think I'll swap most of the parts onto my nasty old saddle, and save the good saddle in case I ever get the bed cleaned up. It's just too nice to bugger up. It was a 4 hour drive, but it worked out well.

Can anyone please provide guidance on bearing repacking? The main spindle bearing is sealed on one side, and I didn't know if the cover can be removed and replaced? If not, can a bearing be properly hand packed from one side? I was trying to get the bearing off the spindle, but I'll need to have some sort of tool made up to push against the inner edge of the bearing. There isn't much exposed past the shoulder on the spindle nose, so I'm concerned about damaging the bearing. Since the spindle is out, I was thinking of just soaking the whole end of the spindle and repacking the bearing by hand with the bearing in place (?). Any thoughts/guidance?

Thanks in advance, TomKro

Retainer Removal Tool.jpgNew Spindle 002 small.jpgNew Spindle 003 small.jpg

Retainer Removal Tool.jpg New Spindle 002 small.jpg New Spindle 003 small.jpg
 
Hi Tom,

Glad to see you're making some progress! If the bearing is in good shape there is no reason to remove it from the spindle. Yes, you can hand pack it with grease while on the spindle - not a problem at all. You only need to only pack between 1/4 and 1/3 full - don't fill with grease. Use a good bearing grease. If I remember correctly I opted for the high dollar Kluber to be on the safe side.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Steve
 
Steve -

Thanks for the bearing packing guidance. I have some cleanup work to do on the spindle, so I'll work that before soaking/repacking the bearing. I know I have some decent bearing grease laying around somewhere. It might be 5 or 6 years old, but it has to be better than the 20?, 30? year old grease that's in there now.

Now that I have usable spindle parts, I'm getting fired up to make some progress. I still have my fingers crossed, because who knows what might happen when throwing together headstock parts from a few different machines.

The weather was really nice yesterday on the 4th, so I stripped paint from the bed and the bed risers. Headstock and tailstock are next. I can't wait to get it painted and start putting things together.

Thanks, TomKro

Bed Depaint small.jpg
 
Back
Top