Operating Lever On Colchester Roundhead

[Kroll]

Good afternoon guys,well I am putting together the levers but have question about the Operating lever.Behind the lever it looks like there is a small 1/8 hole in the head and on the handle that goes up against the head is a bevel hole.I think that there should be a spring and maybe a steel ball that kinda snaps the handle into stop position.But the manual does not show it,so I was wondering if anyone would know for sure and maybe know the parts and information on those parts?

 

[Kiwi]

Ok I haven't had mine apart so don't know for sure when I lift the lever it comes out towards you and when reaches the run position it drops back so I would say yes you are right so does the forward and reverse lever that's on it but what is strange is there is not two indentations in the back of lever in your photo or a track (did you re machine the faces) which creates doubt

 

[Kroll]

Thanks for respondingKiwi,I haven't done anything to it but I don't know about the previous owner.In the manual is shows a dowel that is 3/16X 1/2 long but does not show a spring.So maybe the dowel sticks out all the time,like you are thinking that in the off position the lever is flush against the head.But in the ON position the lever sticks out the length of the dowel pin which I guess is maybe 1/8 or so.When I took the lathe apart nothing was there and where the linkage connects to the drum switch was different than what the manual shows.I don't know if the dowel is spring loaded or not.I have to investage that.
Guys if someone has pics of the linkage could you post them I don't think that mine is setup correctly

 

[Kiwi]

I doubt that if was just a pin/dowel the lever won't rotate I'll investigate mine further tonight or tommorow morning

 

[Kroll]

Here's what I found out which may be wrong,I installe the pin and it keeps the operating lever from moving.Then I pull out the handle just enough to clear the pin and it rotates.But when I connect the drum switch and the linkage there is not enough slack for the lever to give so that I can rotate the lever.Here's some pics,maybe I have it hook up wrong

 

[Brain Coral]

Hello Kroll,

There is no ball and spring that goes into that detent at the back of the handle. There is a spring ( part #5932 ) on the lever shaft, however, that allows the lever to be pulled out to go by the locking pin...

It's hard to tell from your pics, whether you have it installed correctly. I'm on my way out for the day, but I will have a good look at mine for comparison.

Brian

 

[Kroll]

Good deal Brian,thank you.Talking with Gilles he thinks that the 3/16 dowel goes into the hole and bottoms out leaving about 1/8 sticking out that fits into that detent.But I guess I have my linkage hook up wrong going to the drum switch,just seems like the both levers are not long enough.There is not any play,I can't pull the lever out to clear the dowel.Its hard to tell in the pics but where the spring is up against the head and against the brake lever there is no clearance,not even a 1/16.When I move the operating lever the brake lever rubs the head and paint,I have to go back look at the manual and my pictures.
Kiwi said he will take a look at his also to see where I mess up
Guys took it back apart then check it again and it just not enough space between the brake lever and the spindle head.The lever shaft that is for the drum switch has a allen screw that goes through it for the piece that connects to the drum switch,there is no adjustment for it but in the manual there should be a spring on it that fits up against the brake lever on the switch side.Its like the brake lever is to thick,but this is how it came to me.I don't know if it ever work before I got it.

 

[Kiwi]

Ok this is picture heavy but should be self explanatory
] off position
on position you maybe able to see the pin/dowel it is chamfered on the bottom to allow lever to ride up over it
the switch is at the back of head stock the lever is in the off pos
off the threaded rod actuates the brake
the switch plunger off
sorry out of place just overall view
on
there is also a limit switch that is activated on removal of the end gear train cover hope this helps

 

[Kroll]

Kiwi,thank you so much for all the pics.I see that my brake lever has been modified which someone has welded on so wings I guess or just to extend the slot that the linkage to brake goes through.I now understand how it goes together which it looks like I am doing it right.On mine where the brake lever connects the operating lever,it fits but there is not enough room between it and the spindle head which its right up against it.Not even enough rm for the operating lever to go around that pin that sticks out 1/8.The spring that between the head and the lever is compress totally.What it looks like to me is that the brake lever is just to thick,if it was 1/2 thick then it would work.All I need is about 1/2 or less.Guys again thanks for taking the time to post pics and respond to my questions.I don't know if this machine the way the lever were connected if it ever work or not.I have look at it so many times that there is just not another way to hook it up.The manual that I have kinda shows how all fits together but it also leaves alittle to the person imagination.I have look at the pics here several times,that it looks like the lathe that I have is a little different.I was told today that its a Harrison lathe which I don't know what it means.So I may have to come up with another way to make this work---kroll

 

[Kiwi]

You are most welcome Kroll if you want any thing ie dimensions etc no problem it is definitely a Colchester not a Harrison I don't know if Clausing imported them made up or assembled them in the USA with the different voltages the electrical side may well have been done in the USA which may explain the difference