PM 1340GT Lathe (Next-Step) VFD Control System with Proximity Stop Update

mksj

Active User
H-M Lifetime Diamond Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
4,805
My previous designs for VFD control systems have been posted, and I have been building pretty much the same design for about a year. I have made iterative design changes based on the requests of other hobbyists, so each system is tweaked a bit for each individual's preferences. The latest changes included a 3 way coolant selector so one can either choose continuous or intermittent (only with spindle rotation) coolant, variations on using a coolant relay/contactor/voltage source, different braking pattern selections, use of plug and socket connects for the front control panel and proximity sensor cable, Jog Joystick, and a few other changes. The only lathe control box terminal connections are for the spindle cable and 12/24VDC power for tach, lights, etc.

The proximity stop system which use to be bolted onto the micrometer stop is now integrated into the micrometer stop. This makes it more compact, yet the mechanism can be removed by loosening an Allan screw. This simplifies the mechanism, but requires me to machine the micrometer stop to install the mechanism. The proximity stop uses an induction sensor which has been reliable and quite accurate, but there is an additional mechanical limit switch as a back-up. The proximity sensor cable requires modifications to incorporate this limit switch and both are integrated into the lathe control system.

20171027_103715.jpg
20171027_103905.jpg


I have been mostly recommending using the Hitachi WJ200 VFD for use with the control systems I have designed, although the new system design can be adapted to some other VFDs with a few modifications. The WJ200 VFD has proven to be reliable and works well, but I have been considering use of Yaskawa or ABB VFDs at some point in the future. VFD programming seems to be the biggest hurdle for most individuals, and different VFDs have their quirks. Since most of my control systems use 5-7 VFD inputs to control different functions, and require more programming controls, many basic VFDs do not have these features and cannot be used.

The latest PM 1340GT lathes have undergone some changes in their design/wiring, which has prompted me to make further revisions in my control system designs to make it inclusive of the PM 1340GT changes and also more universal/adaptable to other lathes. These include the ability to wire in safety interlocks for the belt cover, and in some models a chuck shield interlock. Other lathes with manual foot brakes can also be use the new control system, but require a different brake switch and the use of an addition VFD input to issue the freewheel command. Factory lathes with VFDs that have foot brakes often do not have a mechanical foot brake, it just acts as an E-Stop and the VFD brakes the lathe. But after having done a few lathe system installs my recommendation if your lathe does have a mechanical foot brake, I would suggest keeping it intact and have the VFD braking disabled when the mechanical foot brake is engaged.

So I have reworked my system design (I call it the Next-Step Control System) to add an extra stop relay (adds an additional safety layer), which overrides the forward/reverse relays commands when the spindle switch is in the stop position. This is in addition to the power relay which controls both low voltage power and VFD input connections, and lockouts the VFD run commands at power up. There are a number of other interlock safety systems incorporated into the design. The lathe control box is now too crowded for the power supply, it is now moved to the VFD cabinet which allows the use of a coolant contactor +/- overload relay if one is using a 240VAC coolant pump. This also allows for a full sized DIN rail power supply which is easier to source. Wiring connections have been simplified to reduce the terminals used for the internal control system connections, a 5A schottky diode has been added at the input power terminals to prevent relay voltage spikes and also prevent damage to the control system should the power supply polarity be connected incorrectly. There have been a few other changes, the switch gear has mostly remained the same. I have thought of going to a single PID controller instead of individual relays, this could be programmed for other features, but the relay control systems are reliable and relatively simple. PID controllers have much greater depth of sensor inputs and programming features, so one thought I might look into is using it to drive a cross slide stepper motor to cut tapers. I am actually a bit surprised is that manufactures have not chucked the lathe gearboxes and replaced them with an encoder feedback drive for the lead screw/power feed. Probably cost less and have more flexibility, but not sure on the long term reliability (some Hardinge HLV-H lathes have this feature). Probably easier to just do a full CNC conversion.
http://www.autoartisans.com/ELS/
http://www.babinmachine.com/index.php?HLVELECLEAD

With my last control system build I was asked to design a new 5 hole replacement control panel for the PM 1340GT control switches. I used Front Panel Express to fabricate these panels out of 2.5mm clear anodized aluminum. It would be nice to do this in house, but it is not practical for the few control systems I make. If someone is interested in the panel design file I will send it to so they can order the panel directly from Front Panel Express. They do nice work if you need custom panel work. The Next-Step Control System and panel is in the following pictures.

20171024_212926.jpg
20171027_104013.jpg

20171027_103647.jpg

20171027_103452.jpg
 
Outstanding design and work Mark. Continually improving a product is what it all about never compromising safety features.
Great write up too, even I can understand:).
 
Outstanding Mark - I am very glad I have a Jacobs Control System on my PM1340GT! It will soon have one of those fancy cover plates as well thanks to you.
 
I have Mark's latest version, except for moving the 24V power supply, and it is beautiful. The design is great and the workmanship is top notch. I have been distracted by some other work and have not gotten my new PM1340GT completely put together yet but I have installed and tested the VFD and controls and everything works perfectly. Thanks Mark for the great system and all of the other advice you have given me.

Paul
 
Hey Mark, any chance that new panel will work for this rig you did for me? :)
 
I love the operating system Mark made for my 1340. I guess I’m spoiled and can’t imagine operating without it.

Mark, I have the same question as Wrmiller. Will the custom face plate work on my version? It looks like it would although the proximity override button is a little smaller than that shown above. I am very content with what I have now, the custom plate would just take the finish detail up a notch.

Thanks for all the great ideas and innovations!
 
The new panel will fit the PM 1340GT with these control systems, but the P sensor switch would be replaced with a standard 22mm NO push button from AD, color of your choice. A full size button is easier to use, you can get unguarded or guarded switch depending on your preferences. Basically snip the wires to the mini switch and you would directly connect the wires to the switch block or use spades. I will email you the panel designs specific to your build (Bill you have a different pot so the hole will be different), you would need to download the free CAD software from Front Panel Express to view it, just check the layout is what you want and click on the order tab and it will process it directly. I have setup all the holes to fit, but have not installed the panel. I did check it against the mounting holes on my machine. I also put a standard flat washer between the screw head and the control panel plate to prevent marring or the control panel moving when tightening the mounting screws. The panels run around $76, so reasonable for the quality and the finished look. One can make any changes to the CAD files, but lots of colors add to the cost.
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/downloads/front_panel_designer/?no_cache=1#downloadForm
Guarded
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...inated_Pushbuttons_Flush_-a-_Extended/GCX1100
Unguarded
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...inated_Pushbuttons_Flush_-a-_Extended/GCX1110

This is another panel I recently did for my Mill control pod.
Mill Control Panel.jpg
 
Last edited:
Got my 1340GT basically in place now and power to it. As Mark knows I spent a stupid amount of $ getting a "CSA" approved box to hold the breakers and VFD so I'm trying to finish up the connection to power without (at least at this point) spending another $1500 Canadian to purchase Marks obviously fabulous system just yet. I've been trying to source proper VFD cable such as is recomended and without buying 100 or more feet seem unable to source it. I currently have power run from the VFD with simple 12-3 cables in a BX housing which I know is NOT a good idea. Not sure if in reality a 6 foot run will be an issue but I'd rather not find out if I can source the correct cable.
I've done the basic rewire of the system in the lathe as per Mark's description but the leads to the 220 side of the 240/24V output transformer are broken (presumably by me although I don't know how) so I've ordered a new 24 volt power supply to replace the transformer (I know I could have run 110V power into the transformer as that lead is intact)
IMG_0438.JPG
IMG_0439.JPG
.
I've attached a pic of the box I had built - it is pretty but roughly triple the cost of buying parts and building my own. The consolation being if it explodes my insurance carrier can't say I did not play by the rules. The addition of stop and start switches by the installer was apparently his idea - no questions asked take it or leave it and he had my VFD and braking resister. I'll disconnect the on-off switches as they really are useless.
 
Back
Top