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Potd - Project Of The Day- What Did You Do In Your Shop Today?

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davidh

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i feel its a shame to grind or hide a good looking weld,
steel or aluminum. it shows real talent.
remember the old saying" putty and paint makes a carpenter what he ain't"
 

Billh50

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Been spending the last couple days to finish up some project machining I need my lathe for. I want to extend my HF 7 x 12 so it will be down for a bit. Should be done with things I need the lathe for in a couple days ( I hope ). Then I can clean it and start taking it apart for the extension project. I will probably end up doing some other mods to it before I am done.
 

tomw

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Bondo would smooth out any trouble areas
Bondo is evil. I speak as a restorer of old cars.

If what you mean is bondo as a generic term for filler, than OK. But really, don't use the product named Bondo*. There are other choices that will serve you far better. I recommend All Metal**. In thin coats it has proven to be a great material for us.

Not that I am bitter for my clients that have Bondo filled cars...

Ugh.

*I have no financial interest in the company producing this product.
**I have no financial interest in the company producing this product. I am also not affiliated with Amazon or receive renumeration from Amazon.
 

sanddan

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That's funny!. When I first did any bodywork bondo brand was the only product out there. Tells you how old I am. LOL

I am using Rage Gold, some left over from a car project.
 

TommyD

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I'm learning myself bodywork with a mig and patch panels, I don't plan on using any plastic filler.
 

RJSakowski

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Bondo is evil because it absorbs moisture. If a hole is patched with fiberglass screen and Bondo and exposed to moisture from the backside, it will eventually fail. The backside of the repair should be totally sealed from moisture and, of course, the front side is sealed with a proper paint job. Body filler works in that instance. The same is true for polyester resin and fiberglass cloth used for boat repair. The repair must be sealed with a gel coat. Epoxy fillers do not have this problem.

The OP is looking at filling imperfections in a steel weldment which will not be exposed to excess moisture and should be sealed on the back side with weld and the front side with paint. I van see no issue with using Bondo in that instance, IMHO.
 

TommyD

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TommyD , Lead works for filler, old school style.
Don't know of anything that works better ,long life and non plastic.
I'm gona be needing some lead Soon
I'd love to learn how to use lead, I have seen them rip it out on some resto shows. I almost bought some lead body irons at my favorite flea market just because they were cool.

I'm on another site where a guy has a monster thread on his builds using patches and mig welding them into place. He describes the method to spot weld them in, planishing the weld to counteract shrinkage, and grinding them flat and start over. It looks easy but..... I practicing on some light gage steel the thickness of my fenders to get the right heat and wire feed. So far I have a bunch of burned through holes with globs of weld and parent material at the edges.:confused 3:
 

Sharky

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I'd love to learn how to use lead, I have seen them rip it out on some resto shows. I almost bought some lead body irons at my favorite flea market just because they were cool.

I'm on another site where a guy has a monster thread on his builds using patches and mig welding them into place. He describes the method to spot weld them in, planishing the weld to counteract shrinkage, and grinding them flat and start over. It looks easy but..... I practicing on some light gage steel the thickness of my fenders to get the right heat and wire feed. So far I have a bunch of burned through holes with globs of weld and parent material at the edges.:confused 3:
Try a piece of copper as a backer for your weld, absorbs heat and mig wont stick to it. You can buy copper spoons from HF cheap or better ones from Eastwood or other body shop suppliers.

Sent from my SM-T217S using Tapatalk
 

TommyD

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I learned about copper in that thread I mentioned. I'm still in practice mode with the welding, right now I have most of the rear end out of my truck, finding 60 year old gaskets, packings, etc. is gobbling up my time.

And mig WILL stick to copper, ya just gotta get it dirty enough. :rolleyes:
 

firestopper

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Got the enclosure back plate and standoffs for the control system Mark (mksj) is designing and building. The enclosure will have a clear door/face and the aluminum I had on hand was rough in terms of finish, so I decided to spend a little time to make it nicer. The 2" standoffs where made using the newly acquired 5C chuck. I really enjoyed the close work without the threat of a large rotating chuck. Parting was also uneventful as was power tapping 10-32. The enclosure will be mounted to the wall behind the lathe while the more complicated control system will be hidden inside the machines cabinet. Mark has been very generous with his knowledge and time.
IMG_1275.JPG
Hear you can see the condition of the aluminum finish prior to "engine turning". IMG_1277.JPG IMG_1295.JPG
Facing,drilling,tapping and parting using the 5C chuck. IMG_1297.JPG
The finished product. IMG_1299.JPG IMG_1301.JPG
New button panel for the front of the lathe. Punched the holes in less than 60 sec. on iron worker. IMG_1279.JPG
Thats it for now.
 

zmotorsports

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Got the enclosure back plate and standoffs for the control system Mark (mksj) is designing and building. The enclosure will have a clear door/face and the aluminum I had on hand was rough in terms of finish, so I decided to spend a little time to make it nicer. The 2" standoffs where made using the newly acquired 5C chuck. I really enjoyed the close work without the threat of a large rotating chuck. Parting was also uneventful as was power tapping 10-32. The enclosure will be mounted to the wall behind the lathe while the more complicated control system will be hidden inside the machines cabinet. Mark has been very generous with his knowledge and time.
View attachment 122612
Hear you can see the condition of the aluminum finish prior to "engine turning". View attachment 122613 View attachment 122614
Facing,drilling,tapping and parting using the 5C chuck. View attachment 122615
The finished product. View attachment 122616 View attachment 122617
New button panel for the front of the lathe. Punched the holes in less than 60 sec. on iron worker. View attachment 122618
Thats it for now.
Looks amazing Paco, but I'm a pushover for engine turned items. I've been trying to save up for a 5C chuck for my 13x40 lathe as well. Unfortunately it keeps getting pushed down the list.

Mike.
 

savarin

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Trying to sand out all the scratches from my bits of ally I made a sanding roller from a bit of pool noodle, wooden dowel and different grades of wet and dry. (400, 800, 1200)
It works very well on slowest speed. I run in reverse as it feels better to me. notice the paper is rolled up so the end doesnt get caught on an edge.
I use white spirit/oil mix as lube so the cloth is to catch all the drips.
sanding-roll.jpg
I wish I had seen paco's work first, I will be doing some of that on some of my bits.
 

firestopper

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not sure i would put holes where chips can get in
If your referring to the button panel on the lathe, I was test fitting the new panel for the photo. Its has the original panel with 4 buttons when in use.

The scotch brite pads would have taken too long with the nasty condition of the original surface with too many deep gouges. The 180 grit made short work of it.

Looks amazing Paco, but I'm a pushover for engine turned items. I've been trying to save up for a 5C chuck for my 13x40 lathe as well. Unfortunately it keeps getting pushed down the list.

Mike.
Thanks Mike, I have never used a 5C system before, and can't believe it took me this long, but then again, I'm alway learning new things. It made thing quicker and safer IMO.
 

TommyD

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Moved my rear axle from my '56 Chebbie 3/4 pick-m-up from the 30° gay-raj upto the gar-age and, my ultimate wish, into the cellar. The cold in my gay-raj laughs at the feeble attempts of my little woodstove to let me be able to work in something less than a parka. No matter how warm air in there gets my tools are still bone chilling cold. I hate having cold hands. It's mid 50's here and in the 3 hours of having all the windows and a door open, it finally got to 40.

I'm heading out to the packy to pick up some IPA's to contemplate how to get it in the cellar. Anybody wanna stop over for a beer or 3?
 

TommyD

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Here's the view, outta the gay-raj (freestanding building) into the gar-raj ( under the house) using my John Deere compact tractor. Brought engine hoist up small incline ( pant pant) and monkeyed it around the gay-raj with it and Jack stands and muscled it all into the cellar where I am now sweating and on my third IPA:p . All that is left is move into my work area 1455916624205-1053775460.jpg
 
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