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Potd - Project Of The Day- What Did You Do In Your Shop Today?

Uglydog

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I'm taking my first Machine Tools class.
It's entry level.
My goal is to tighten up my accuracy.

My first project after an intro to metrology is draw filing a 4x4x.5 inch plate to .001+/-.
Spent about 14 hours now she is .006 under 4x4.
But, she's square and a .001 feeler gage will not fit in any direction between the plate and my straight edges.

Daryl
MN
 

clevinski

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I'm taking my first Machine Tools class.
It's entry level.
My goal is to tighten up my accuracy.

My first project after an intro to metrology is draw filing a 4x4x.5 inch plate to .001+/-.
Spent about 14 hours now she is .006 under 4x4.
But, she's square and a .001 feeler gage will not fit in any direction between the plate and my straight edges.

Daryl
MN
14 hours!?!?! "jawdrop:

God bless you, man... I had to do a project involving filing a 3/4 inch square hole for a tight fit a few months ago, and spent almost 3 hours getting it to fit right. I cannot imagine 14 hours... now that's a dedicated machinist!
:man:
 

ScottA

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This is a knee riser I made for my field target air rifle. It's almost finished. It's three parts. The top part has a pocket you can't see where an aluminum block rides, it slides into the accessory rail on the rifle. The middle part is aluminum bar, and the bottom is black Delrin that has a rough concave surface machined in the bottom to rest on my knee. Used a Taig mill and my South Bend 10k to make it.


View attachment 60646
 

GK1918

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The only bad thing about old machinery is that it is hard to mount a DRO of any kind on them. I needed one for my spindle for a project I'm going to start some time next week. So this is what I came up with this is the only place to mount one.
View attachment 60642
Not pretty but it works ok.
View attachment 60643

Paauull
The solution:: Epoxie ! Just no way to drill & tap, the feed motor is in the way so I epoxied it used a bolt again'st the X gear box as a C clamp
left over nite. I'll tell ya cant beat the price and its right on with my dials. Next will be the X on the back side.
 

bollie7

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14 hours!?!?! "jawdrop:

God bless you, man... I had to do a project involving filing a 3/4 inch square hole for a tight fit a few months ago, and spent almost 3 hours getting it to fit right. I cannot imagine 14 hours... now that's a dedicated machinist!
:man:
When I started my apprenticeship way back in Dec 1974 we spent 6 weeks (40 hour weeks) learning to file, mark out and hacksaw. We got to be pretty good at filing.
Now I'd be going to file a flat surface if my life depended on it.

bollie7
 

w6br

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Hi All,

I have a HF 16" Heavy Duty Drill Press that needed attention, sounded rather raspy. I picked this Drill Press about 2 years ago used at a very good price, $75.00, so I figured it had been well used since it came with a coolant reservoir (hint, hint). I tore it apart, and sure enough all the grease was hardened and the bearings were sloppy, especially the spindle bearing. No wonder I couldn't keep a concentric center point!!

went to my local Bearing House, purchased all of the replacement Bearings, and to my surprise they had them all - good so far!! Well after tearing everything apart, and thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly cleaning everything, whew, that old grease was something else, but with judicial usage of Acetone, everything came out spotless, Then re-assembly went smooth as can be and the Drill Press sounds just like new. OBTW - I also replaced the pulley V-belts, boy were they hard.

I thought why not, and ordered a new 5/8th no-key Drill Chuck to top it off, and so far I am as happy as a bug in the rug!! :)

Just my two cents worth - BTW - on my avatar, a couple of the Boys asked me what that represented - well, I was a F-105G Wild Weasel Driver in Nam, and that is the plane that I flew. That was an experience I'll never forget!!

Ron

BTW - I am proud and honored to be a member of this group. You are all just great and helpful!! :) :))
 

DAN_IN_MN

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Corrected a buying error that happened over 50 years ago.

My dad did furniture upholstery. When he bought his sewing machine, he ordered the largest/fastest motor he could get which is around 3500+ RPMs. The machine was way too fast and my dad did fit a larger driven pulley years ago. Original pulley on the left.
Two pullies.jpg


I still find it too fast as the clutch still has to be feathered, so this is my solution. Found this very ugly but usable pulley in my stuff. Had to modify the hub. A bolt lost it's identity in the process. I'll clean it up and paint it if I like how this turns out. Not seen are two 1/4-20 set screws drilled in the hex head to hold it on the shaft.

large pulley hub mod_2.jpg
With this view, you can see the amount the hub had to be changed to fit the machines shaft. The original hub had small splines and I just pressed the bushing in.
Large pulley hib mod_1.jpg

Belt redirect roller added. Those used timing belt tensioners do come in handy. The belt would rub on the slot in the table without this added roller as you can see in the second pic. The mounting bracket for it was from a lawn mower muffler mount. Cut, drill, and tap and it was done.
IMG_20130918_151604.jpg

Now to find the correct belt length and get a new one.

*****EDIT*****

I went to an online belt calculator and it looks like I'll be needed a 47" belt. Along with finding the belt length, I found an RPM calculator.

Here are the difference in RPMs with the pulley changes.

Driver pulley 1.5" with

OEM pulley of 3" = 1456 rpm

Pulley dad put on 5" = 875 rpm

Pulley I added 7.25" = 602 rpm

I might be able to control this beast now.

IMG_20130918_151604.jpg large pulley hub mod_2.jpg Large pulley hib mod_1.jpg Two pullies.jpg
 
Last edited:

Goat Driver

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Corrected a buying error that happened over 50 years ago.

My dad did furniture upholstery. When he bought his sewing machine, he ordered the largest/fastest motor he could get which is around 3500+ RPMs. The machine has been way too fast and my dad did fit a larger driven pulley years ago. Original pulley on the left.

I still find it too fast as the clutch still has to be feathered, so this is my solution. Found this very ugly but usable pulley in my stuff. Had to modify the hub. A bolt lost it's identity in the process. I'll clean it up and paint it if I like how this turns out. Not seen are two 1/4-20 set screws drilled in the hex head to hold it on the shaft.

With this view, you can see the amount the hub had to be changed to fit the machines shaft. The original hub had small splines and I just pressed the bushing in.

Belt redirect roller added. Those used timing belt tensioners do come in handy. The belt would rub on the slot in the table without this added roller as you can see in the second pic. The mounting bracket for it was from a lawn mower muffler mount. Cut, drill, and tap and it was done.

Now to find the correct belt length and get a new one.


Nice work! Good to see folks "making do" with what they have in this "throw away" generation. :goodjob:
 

markknx

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Made a spinner for a 3/8 drive ratchet out of a old gear. I will put some pics up soon.
 

Bill Gruby

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Just finished this Circle Cutter for a modeling friend. Range is 1.5" - !2".

"Billy G"
 

pipehack

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This thread is awesome. Thanks guys. I can only hope to come half as close to the skill that you guys have.
 

markknx

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This thread is awesome. Thanks guys. I can only hope to come half as close to the skill that you guys have.
pipehack,

stick with it trial and error have a lot to do with my learning.:thinking: But this group has saved me a lot of errors.
 

GK1918

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NOTHING, I watched ebay all day and I got it. A 1923 Ford touring yahoo !!!!!!!!!!! trailers already hooked up
 

Philco

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Had to have a ( special tool) you know!!! The special tool that the shop owner has to buy that drives the cost up to fix your car. This car was a 2008 Ford fusion. The tool is for removing the lower ball joint. The tool can be bought for about $220.00. & would be a couple of days to ship. I made this one in a couple hours. I bought the .750x16 grade 8 threaded bolt at fastenal.
Phil

image.jpg image.jpg
 

CNC Dude

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Had to have a ( special tool) you know!!! The special tool that the shop owner has to buy that drives the cost up to fix your car. This car was a 2008 Ford fusion. The tool is for removing the lower ball joint. The tool can be bought for about $220.00. & would be a couple of days to ship. I made this one in a couple hours. I bought the .750x16 grade 8 threaded bolt at fastenal.
Phil
That tool looks nice indeed! But what prompted me to reply was your tale as it reminded me how many times my family and friends have pointed out how ironic it is that I would spend say $10,000 on machinery to make something that perhaps is worth $50. What most people fail to see, however, is that making that special part makes us feel $9,950 better, so with the $50 part made with my own hands, my $10,000 investment has been paid in for.

In your case, however, you did save almost $220 and days worth of wait. Extra icing on the cake! Good job!
 

Maxx

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Nothing fancy just didn't want to spend $45 for a new one.
A bad spring caused the hole to wallow out so I chucked it in the lathe and cleaned up the damage.
Cut down a washer to fit and backed it with a larger washer, chucked it back up in the lathe and made hole the proper size.
Cost in materials about $2 with welding supplies.
Anything with JD Green is not cheap.......
I painted it but no pics.

Spring Retainer 1.JPG Spring Retainer 2.JPG
 

schor

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POTD - Project of Day - Sometimes it's the little things.

My daughter came to me with her broken mini armour. In this case I did have enough clamps.

IMG_00000088.jpg IMG_00000087.jpg IMG_00000085.jpg IMG_00000084.jpg

IMG_00000088.jpg IMG_00000087.jpg IMG_00000085.jpg IMG_00000084.jpg
 

schor

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Along with fixing my daughters toy armour, I did get started on a drill press depth stop.

IMG_00000035.jpg IMG_00000041.jpg IMG_00000047.jpg IMG_00000051.jpg IMG_00000056.jpg IMG_00000058.jpg IMG_00000059.jpg IMG_00000063.jpg IMG_00000062.jpg IMG_00000064.jpg IMG_00000065.jpg IMG_00000066.jpg IMG_00000069.jpg IMG_00000072.jpg IMG_00000073.jpg IMG_00000076.jpg IMG_00000077.jpg IMG_00000078.jpg IMG_00000083.jpg IMG_00000093.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Along with fixing my daughters toy armour, I did get started on a drill press depth stop.
btw, this is what it should look like in the end.

buffalo_18_v2_6.jpg

IMG_00000035.jpg IMG_00000041.jpg IMG_00000047.jpg IMG_00000051.jpg IMG_00000056.jpg IMG_00000058.jpg IMG_00000059.jpg IMG_00000063.jpg IMG_00000062.jpg IMG_00000082.jpg IMG_00000083.jpg IMG_00000064.jpg IMG_00000065.jpg IMG_00000066.jpg IMG_00000069.jpg IMG_00000072.jpg IMG_00000073.jpg IMG_00000076.jpg IMG_00000077.jpg IMG_00000078.jpg IMG_00000093.jpg buffalo_18_v2_6.jpg
 

markknx

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Well I said I would post some pic so here they are. I made this because I could not find any of the ones that came with the socket sets I bought over the years . I had a ton of 3/8 U bolts to tighten at work. I knew I could make one but it would take more time than I had to kurl mill the square hole and do all the lath work. I was giving up when I spotted the damper gear assembly( like the one in the photo.)and it hit me all I had to do to it was face a pocket on the front and part it off. Not real pretty be cause I was in a hurry and it is a cheap cast pot metal.But it works like a charm

Mark 001.JPG 002.JPG
OTE=markknx;146467]Made a spinner for a 3/8 drive ratchet out of a old gear. I will put some pics up soon.[/QUOTE]

001.JPG 002.JPG
 

DaveInPA

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I've been having problems with the tailstock on my Big Dog Metal Works (Real Bull) mini lathe slipping when I try to drill with it. So, today I took the tailstock off and machined the clamping plate so that it's more even and hopefully applies more pressure to the underside of the ways. Didn't get a chance to test it yet.

clamp-plate-before.jpg clamp-plate-after.jpg


I also made this little non-marring mallet. The head is made from 3" x 3/4" acetal rod.

delrin-mallet.jpg
 

kizmit99

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I made a couple of machinist jacks sized to support stuff hanging over the edge of my mill vise. They adjust from 2.25 to 4.125 inches...
55fc5aebe4bd81717cc18e125bc63e8f_zps690e26dd.jpg
 

Maxx

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I made a couple of machinist jacks sized to support stuff hanging over the edge of my mill vise. They adjust from 2.25 to 4.125 inches...
55fc5aebe4bd81717cc18e125bc63e8f_zps690e26dd.jpg
Nice!
But me I am simple and have plenty of things to make so when I need a jack I use an old 1-2-3 block and thread a flat topped bolt into it.
I like having the wider base.
 

kizmit99

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Nice!
But me I am simple and have plenty of things to make so when I need a jack I use an old 1-2-3 block and thread a flat topped bolt into it.
I like having the wider base.
Thanks. I'm still at the stage of looking for simple things to make and being fascinated that I can make a bolt ;)