- Joined
- Mar 12, 2012
- Messages
- 262
Having worked in a motor shop 25 yrs ago while I was going to school I will tell you what I learned.
Before doing anything else check how much "up and down" and "in and out" play there is on the shaft. Then pull off the capicitor as mentioned by R.G. A motor shop or some electricians can test this with a meter. If that all is ok then do the following.
1. Next write down how the wires are hooked up now. By color code or on a motor of that age by number on the wires! GE was always a little different than everybody else.
2. Before you pull the four long bolts holding the end bells to the middle(stator) section scrib a line fom the end bell on to the main body. One line on the shaft end bel and main body and two lines on the opposite end(start switch end. These are for reference later to get the end bells back on in the same position. Some of these older motors weren't always machined perfectly and if you get them "out of line" you can mess up the clearance of the rotor to the stator and it's hard to sort out.
3. Take and tap the end bell shaft end loose from the main body and slide the rotor and end bell out of the stator. That way you don't have to fight with/break the start switch and wiring. It's all at the "non shaft" end. There will be a centrifigal switch operator on the end of the rotor. It probably has two springs and a flat plate/washer that you should be able to push in on and it will pop back out on it's own. This operates the start switch.
4. Take a look inside at the motor windings. It's usually fairly obvious if the windings are burned out. Some will be bright or maybe a dark copper color and some will be "BLACK". If the are portions that are black you would probably need a different motor. They can be rewound(i did it ) but it is harder than I can explain here plus you have to find the right size wire.
5. Tap the other end bell loose carefully and watch how the wires are routed to the switch and windings. carefully lay the end bell down interior side up. The start switch will be mounted to the end bell. There are usually one or two contacts on the switch. Do they appear good and clean or dark and burned? Think points on a car(if you are old enough to know what they are:biggrin:.
iF ALL THIS APPEARS GOOD. How much play in and out play was there? Sometimes they wear out fiber washers(on the shaft between the shaft and end bell) and to much play won't let the start switch work properly.
The old motors like this one really are the best ones ever built (LOOK AT HOW OLD IT IS NOW) and if you can get it back up and purring that's how I'd go.
Post a picture or two of the inside if you question how something looks.
Before doing anything else check how much "up and down" and "in and out" play there is on the shaft. Then pull off the capicitor as mentioned by R.G. A motor shop or some electricians can test this with a meter. If that all is ok then do the following.
1. Next write down how the wires are hooked up now. By color code or on a motor of that age by number on the wires! GE was always a little different than everybody else.
2. Before you pull the four long bolts holding the end bells to the middle(stator) section scrib a line fom the end bell on to the main body. One line on the shaft end bel and main body and two lines on the opposite end(start switch end. These are for reference later to get the end bells back on in the same position. Some of these older motors weren't always machined perfectly and if you get them "out of line" you can mess up the clearance of the rotor to the stator and it's hard to sort out.
3. Take and tap the end bell shaft end loose from the main body and slide the rotor and end bell out of the stator. That way you don't have to fight with/break the start switch and wiring. It's all at the "non shaft" end. There will be a centrifigal switch operator on the end of the rotor. It probably has two springs and a flat plate/washer that you should be able to push in on and it will pop back out on it's own. This operates the start switch.
4. Take a look inside at the motor windings. It's usually fairly obvious if the windings are burned out. Some will be bright or maybe a dark copper color and some will be "BLACK". If the are portions that are black you would probably need a different motor. They can be rewound(i did it ) but it is harder than I can explain here plus you have to find the right size wire.
5. Tap the other end bell loose carefully and watch how the wires are routed to the switch and windings. carefully lay the end bell down interior side up. The start switch will be mounted to the end bell. There are usually one or two contacts on the switch. Do they appear good and clean or dark and burned? Think points on a car(if you are old enough to know what they are:biggrin:.
iF ALL THIS APPEARS GOOD. How much play in and out play was there? Sometimes they wear out fiber washers(on the shaft between the shaft and end bell) and to much play won't let the start switch work properly.
The old motors like this one really are the best ones ever built (LOOK AT HOW OLD IT IS NOW) and if you can get it back up and purring that's how I'd go.
Post a picture or two of the inside if you question how something looks.