Scraping my Shars 4" Milling Vise

Remeasured the vise last night, this time using a gage block to bridge the highpoints. This made a huge difference in the ease and repeatability of measurements

Parallelism in Transverse Direction: 0.00030" over 4"
Parallelism in Longitudinal Direction: 0.00035" over 8"
TIR Parallelism: 0.00050"

Noticed my indicator base is not all that flat. It too will need to be scraped if I'm going to have ease in measuring my work.
 
Took a moment to take better readings over the whole vise surface.

I used a tenths indicator on a stand in a fixed position. Once the indicator was zeroed, I did not touch it for the entirety of the measurement. To measure, I slid the vise under the indicator stylus and then took a clean gage block and slipped it between. I took a minimum of 3 measurements or as many as were required to get the measurements to settle. All readings were interpolated between the graduations to the nearest 1/5th tenth (0.00002"). Between 3 successive readings, I went back to the zero location (top left of vise, center of way) and made sure the indicator repeated to zero. Care was taken to not measure over the sharpie numbers as these would influence the measurements by 1/2 tenth or more. A total of 48 measurement locations were sampled.

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To better visualize the data, I drew a to-proportion grid in excel and plotted the values (in 0.0001") then heat mapped the whole surface. The origin measurement is marked as a bold 0.0.

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Here is the same chart using single color gradient.

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This is all overkill for a vise but kind of fun. The overall taper from top left to bottom right corner will be corrected by scraping the bottom of the vise. The convexity in the middle might be convexity remaining from scraping the top surface, errors in my measurements, or non flatness of my surface plate. I'd like to finish roughing and high pointing the bottom, then repeat this chart hoping for deviations <0.0002" all over.
 
While it sounds like a lot of work, there are a lot of lessons in metrology and old school ways to achieve spectacular accuracy. You should have started with a good vise ;-). Seriously, thank you for taking the time to bring us along.
 
While it sounds like a lot of work, there are a lot of lessons in metrology and old school ways to achieve spectacular accuracy. You should have started with a good vise ;-). Seriously, thank you for taking the time to bring us along.
While it is a lot of work, it is rather relaxing and I can get into a flow. I’ve been listening to Liftoff (audiobook on the early history of SpaceX) and 3 hours can fly by without me noticing. The hardest part is actually understanding the geometry of the part. Detecting bow or twist in the surface is moderately tricky to measure when the error is only a tenth or two. My first job was in a metrology lab so I have some patience for taking my time while measuring a part.

I will take this as a lesson. The vise was one of my earliest machining purchases (along with my G0704 mill). Got them when I was maybe 19? Back then “accuracy” was probably a good +/-0.025”. Given that, the vise served me well. Now I want to work in the tenths range and find myself wanting more accurate tools than I have.

Think I’m going to call the vise done. Will post an update when I get some free time.
 
Vise is done! Here was the day or two leading up to finishing it.

Continued work on the bottom, scraping for flatness, bearing, and parallelism to the bed.
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Measurements of the bed surface indicated about 2 tenths of convexity in the surface. More careful hinging also seemed to indicate this, although difficult to tell once it is this flat.
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More scraping on the bottom to remove the wedge from side to side - about 2 tenths. Using red canode as contrast.
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Light scraping for increasing bearing. This surface is less critical to me for fineness of surface.
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Here is how my bench looks while scraping (a bit more cleaned up since I have the extra pieces of the vise pulled out in this photo). The surface plate takes up about 1/3 of the bench, some 2x4's provide good blocking to hold the vise in position while scraping. The diamond lapping wheels on the left are used for hand sharpening.

The vise nut (black slide at the very bottom of the photo) has rough milled slides, which seem of sufficient quality for the job they do. Unfortunately both slides has dings which were the only bearing points as shown by the wear pattern. I stoned these slides with a sharpening stone and got better contact. They are too small to bother scraping, nor is the inside edge of the vise of ground or scraped quality.

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Starting to fit the vise back together. I took a full hour to deburr and edge break all the components as well as give it a deep clean.
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There is the half ball to reduce jaw lift. Mine seems to be better than a lot of the import vises I see people talking about in this regard, however the cast socket that mates to the ball is rough cast and not super smooth.
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Here is the vise assembled.
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And back on the mill.
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I would have to guess I put about 40 hours into this vise, although I wouldn't call all of that time super productive.

The surfaces are flat and parallel within 0.0002 all over, but most areas are within 1/2 tenth. The jaw lift adjustment screw can be tightened MUCH tighter than before without binding which is a testament to the improvement of the bedways and moving jaw slides.

The screw was cleaned as was the thrust bearing (lots of chips in there). The Chinese must have invented the class 4B thread for the screw retaining jam nut (visible on the left side of the vise in the image above) as a special for this vise. The nut was loose enough that it slid over the major diameter of the threads on the screw for about 1/2 of the length, and just barely threaded for the rest. It is retained with 2 setscrews which crush the threads underneath and probably contribute 95% of the strength of that fastener - what garbage.

Here are a couple more things I learned:

-My Interapid DTI (0.0001") is not very repeatable in the sub-tenth range of measurements. I think any influence (dust, heat expansion, stickiness in the indicator movement, etc.) contributes to measurement error at this range.

-Determining convexity, concavity, twist, etc in the 1-2 tenth range is difficult, at least with my surface plate and measuring tools.

-My indicator base needs to be scraped, it is not flat enough to be reliable in single tenths measurements.

-Changing the inclination of the scraper reduces the cut width and is useful for more accurate high pointing.

-As a righty, scraping 45 degrees to my left is easier than 45 degrees to my right. My body gets between my hands and the work and makes the posture more difficult. Don't know the solution.

-I purchased a 30mm optical flat ($20) to bridge high spots rather than the gage block. I might break it but I think the larger contact area will be preferable to the gage block.

-I still want to pick up the AQUA WASH version of the Charbonnel. I don't find the high spot blue to be *that* messy though.

-My surface plate has a 2" x 1" divot along the back edge, roughly 0.0008" deep. Was never lapped flat - ugh. I have to avoid this. Otherwise my poor man's repeat-o-meter readings using a DTI on a base gave deviations no greater than +/- 0.00015. This is probably sufficient for my needs at this point.

-Part of my inaccuracy when mounting the vise on the mill comes from bending of my 5/8" thick aluminum tooling plate (last photo) as the clamps holding the vise are tightened. Now that I know the vise is true, I can contribute all the error to my machine and workholding setups.


All in all I am very happy with the outcome. I took a cheap vise, all I could afford at the time, and turned it into a much higher precision tool which should last me a long time. The 40 hours spent on it also taught me some scraping fundamentals which I will carry forward with me to my next scraping projects (a CI parallel, a CI surface plate, and hopefully a dovetail straightedge and eventually my G0704 mill).

I want to thank everyone who contributed and has answered my questions.

-Mike
 
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You would have done better with the original sandvik blade, and starting with a triangular file and ground straight edge, in this case 6 to 8 points is good enough with
even distribution, the vice doesn't move
 
Wanted to make one additional comment. Jumping into scraping doesn't need to be too intimidating. Just going for a flat plane is simple enough and the effort is not extraordinary. Just scraped my indicator holder this afternoon in 45 minutes - granted it was much flatter than the vise to start. Entry costs are also moderately low:
  • Grade B plate - sized for your work: $50-100
  • Scraper (Sandvik): $90
  • Diamond lapping discs (800, 1500 grit): $10 each
  • Hi Spot Blue: $15
  • Indicator + stand (cheap one to start): $50
You can even skip the scraper and lapping discs and use a file and a bench grinder. Your work will be rough and it dulls fast, but it does work.
 
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