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Sheldon tail stock
- Thread starter dlane
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2014
- Messages
- 3,123
The way wiper covers "Brass" were kinda beaten up , I made a jig to form new ones , both flat and prismatic. The carriage could use new ones also
On the SB 10 the top of the covers are open so way oil can be applied to the felt wipers I'm making the Sheldon wiper covers open at the top also. Ordered some f1 felt for the new wipers 1/4" thick.
The original felt looked 3/16" I'm gona use 1/4" with the new covers.
Still trying to figure out how best to get the hardened polishing compound off easily and separated from the parts washer purple Zep cleaner, gona try coffee filters in drain hole.
Pics to come.
On the SB 10 the top of the covers are open so way oil can be applied to the felt wipers I'm making the Sheldon wiper covers open at the top also. Ordered some f1 felt for the new wipers 1/4" thick.
The original felt looked 3/16" I'm gona use 1/4" with the new covers.
Still trying to figure out how best to get the hardened polishing compound off easily and separated from the parts washer purple Zep cleaner, gona try coffee filters in drain hole.
Pics to come.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,508
If the existing wiper felts are about 3/16" thick, I would guess that the original material used was 1/4" thick.
Instead of leaving part of the top open. the way in which the Atlas 10" and 12" wiper holders are made is that in the top there is a 0.109" dia. hole punched. The female part of the punch die must have been slightly countersunk as the outside of the hole is slightly indented. It is a pretty good match-up to the conical tip on the Eagle 66 oil can. So you press the tip into the hole and one or two squirts saturates the felt with (if your alignment is good) none of the oil ending up on top of the cover. You could simulate the indentation by grinding a cone on the end of an old 3/16" pin punch and drilling a 7/64" or 1/8" hole in the end of a scrap piece of flat bar held in a vise. Line up the hole in the cover with the hole in the flat bar and punch the cover hole with the modified pin punch. With the prismatic wiper cover, it would probably be easier to use a larger drill bit to make a partial countersink.
Instead of leaving part of the top open. the way in which the Atlas 10" and 12" wiper holders are made is that in the top there is a 0.109" dia. hole punched. The female part of the punch die must have been slightly countersunk as the outside of the hole is slightly indented. It is a pretty good match-up to the conical tip on the Eagle 66 oil can. So you press the tip into the hole and one or two squirts saturates the felt with (if your alignment is good) none of the oil ending up on top of the cover. You could simulate the indentation by grinding a cone on the end of an old 3/16" pin punch and drilling a 7/64" or 1/8" hole in the end of a scrap piece of flat bar held in a vise. Line up the hole in the cover with the hole in the flat bar and punch the cover hole with the modified pin punch. With the prismatic wiper cover, it would probably be easier to use a larger drill bit to make a partial countersink.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2015
- Messages
- 662
Old thread but maybe dlane can help me with his experience. In brief, what was the process of replacing the carriage wipers in your Sheldon ? Also, thanks to others for the notes on the tailstock, I've bookmarked this since I need some tailstock maintenance.