Southbend Problems

[B Driscole]

I have a 14 x 60 Southbend, 30" between center, I think from the mid 70's. It's not the prettiest machine but its sound and true. I was finishing up my latest project a 1/3 scale mountain howitzer and had a problem that occurred at the end of the project. I was able to finish the project manually but now want to figure out what the problem is and correct it. So here is my problem. While making right to left cuts along the length of the piece at the end of the cut when I disengaged the travel the saddle (carriage) wanted to continue moving to the left. I could hold it and then move it back to the right for the next cut. Once all the way back to the right it would stay ready for the next cut. The problem would repeat and the end of the next cut.

I have removed the saddle expecting to find chips, grit, etc. but actually looks good plenty of oil no chips, etc. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm ready to start my next project .

I am not a machinist by trade only by hobby.

Bob

 

[OldMachinist]

Sticky clutch, common problem on South Bend lathes. See this South Bend bulletin on how fix.
http://www.wswells.com/data/parts/2003.pdf

 

[randyc]

My 1944 Sheldon also has a sticky clutch When stopping the carriage feed, I have to sort of "tap" the clutch after loosening the knob, rather than just loosening it, otherwise clutch drag will continue to move the carriage.

One of these days the carriage may have to be removed and the parts in the apron disassembled, cleaned and repaired, where required. I'm NOT looking forward to that.

These older engine lathes are very, very similar in design so I think the first suggestion in the link that Don posted (thanks Don) would be a good thing for me to try before performing any further surgery. Nothing to lose and the same "fix" might work for Bob.

 

[David M]

My 1944 Sheldon also has a sticky clutch When stopping the carriage feed, I have to sort of "tap" the clutch after loosening the knob, rather than just loosening it, otherwise clutch drag will continue to move the carriage.

One of these days the carriage may have to be removed and the parts in the apron disassembled, cleaned and repaired, where required. I'm NOT looking forward to that.

These older engine lathes are very, very similar in design so I think the first suggestion in the link that Don posted (thanks Don) would be a good thing for me to try before performing any further surgery. Nothing to lose and the same "fix" might work for Bob.

It's not such a terrible job, I have a Sheldon and have done it. There's a bearing block at the tail end of the leadscrew and a tapered pin at the other, remove those and the two bolts holding the apron to the saddle and it's off. The clutch parts can be removed from the back without dismantling the whole apron.

 

[randyc]

It's not such a terrible job, I have a Sheldon and have done it. There's a bearing block at the tail end of the leadscrew and a tapered pin at the other, remove those and the two bolts holding the apron to the saddle and it's off. The clutch parts can be removed from the back without dismantling the whole apron.

Thank you, David, I really appreciate that information. Sounds a lot simpler than what I envisioned !!!

 

[B Driscole]

I have a 14 x 60 Southbend, 30" between center, I think from the mid 70's. It's not the prettiest machine but its sound and true. I was finishing up my latest project a 1/3 scale mountain howitzer and had a problem that occurred at the end of the project. I was able to finish the project manually but now want to figure out what the problem is and correct it. So here is my problem. While making right to left cuts along the length of the piece at the end of the cut when I disengaged the travel the saddle (carriage) wanted to continue moving to the left. I could hold it and then move it back to the right for the next cut. Once all the way back to the right it would stay ready for the next cut. The problem would repeat and the end of the next cut.

I have removed the saddle expecting to find chips, grit, etc. but actually looks good plenty of oil no chips, etc. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm ready to start my next project .

I am not a machinist by trade only by hobby.

Bob

Thanks for the input. I'll start with the easy fix and move on as needed.

Bob

 

[OldMachinist]

If you have the star knob clutch instead of the toggle cam the clutch removal procedure is a little different than what is in the sticky clutch bulletin. The first part of this bulletin explains how to remove the star knob clutch.
http://www.wswells.com/data/parts/992C.pdf

 

[Kernbigo]

try using auto trans fluid in it after you cleaned it up, i'am using it in my 9" working good, a car has similar plates in there trans

 

[B Driscole]

I have a 14 x 60 Southbend, 30" between center, I think from the mid 70's. It's not the prettiest machine but its sound and true. I was finishing up my latest project a 1/3 scale mountain howitzer and had a problem that occurred at the end of the project. I was able to finish the project manually but now want to figure out what the problem is and correct it. So here is my problem. While making right to left cuts along the length of the piece at the end of the cut when I disengaged the travel the saddle (carriage) wanted to continue moving to the left. I could hold it and then move it back to the right for the next cut. Once all the way back to the right it would stay ready for the next cut. The problem would repeat and the end of the next cut.

I have removed the saddle expecting to find chips, grit, etc. but actually looks good plenty of oil no chips, etc. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm ready to start my next project .

I am not a machinist by trade only by hobby.

Bob

Thanks for the help. I work on my lathe last night and thing seem to be working properly now. I will continue to flush it out and then refill with proper oil. Thanks again.

Bob