Stick welder under $800.00 ?

https://www.premierwelding.com/kemppi-minarc-evo-180-mma-package

6010 you should weld using DC

7018 can do ac/dc

5/32 is like 4mm

i got


5/32 without problem for whole day , dust , kicking with leg , jumping on transport .... cost more then kemppi but is biger and more heavy ..

kemppi will be the best option for you i was using for 2y without problem , now is owned by my dad coz is only 5kg , fronius almost 9kg



DO NOT FORGET , YOU SHOULD BUY GOOD QUALITY BRAND , BEST ON THE WORLD AND IS NO QUESTION ABOUT IT : FRONIUS , ESAB , KEMPPI , REHM REST IS JUST LOOKING LIKE WELDING MACHINE :)
 
nvm.
 
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I have a Miller Thunderbolt 210 (220V) and it does NOT run E6010. I was very disappointed with this!

I immediately called Miller, and they confirmed that the machine will not run 6010. They recommended that I use 6011, information which I was well aware of. However, I like 6010! It is by far my favorite stick electrode.
I have a Miller Thunderbolt AC as well and it does run 6010, but with a DC converter box. I've had that old Thunderbolt for almost 20 years, and until just recently, never tried 7018 or 6010 on it. I knew not to try 6010, since that is a DC only rod. Surprisingly, most 7018 has difficulty. The 7018 AC from the big box store is another story. Runs great and looks great. Strong too. It's my rod of choice for hard to weld steels; just preheat a little more than those "miracle" rods. When Covid kept me in, I started communicating with one of my welding friends over the Internet. He told me that you have to be able to use 6010. I don't like the smell of burning 6011, and I found out I don't like the smell of 6010 either. They smell like forest fires, and the smoke gets in my clothes. I welded up some machine guards, though, and the fast freeze was excellent, so I still buy them. Anyway, I found some diodes at a good price and wound some chokes, and whaddya know, I can run 7018 and 6010. The cost was very low. The funny thing is that I am almost out of 6010. I only got a few rods in a garage sale find. I have several boxes of 6011. It does all I want.
 
I have a Miller Thunderbolt AC as well and it does run 6010, but with a DC converter box. I've had that old Thunderbolt for almost 20 years, and until just recently, never tried 7018 or 6010 on it. I knew not to try 6010, since that is a DC only rod. Surprisingly, most 7018 has difficulty. The 7018 AC from the big box store is another story. Runs great and looks great. Strong too. It's my rod of choice for hard to weld steels; just preheat a little more than those "miracle" rods. When Covid kept me in, I started communicating with one of my welding friends over the Internet. He told me that you have to be able to use 6010. I don't like the smell of burning 6011, and I found out I don't like the smell of 6010 either. They smell like forest fires, and the smoke gets in my clothes. I welded up some machine guards, though, and the fast freeze was excellent, so I still buy them. Anyway, I found some diodes at a good price and wound some chokes, and whaddya know, I can run 7018 and 6010. The cost was very low. The funny thing is that I am almost out of 6010. I only got a few rods in a garage sale find. I have several boxes of 6011. It does all I want.

Just to clarify, this is the Miller Thunderbolt 210 that I have that won’t run 6010:

 
For a newb AC only arc welder consider getting some 6013. It runs AC, easier to get good welds than 6011.
Check out:
You don't need to memorize all this stuff. Make sure what you purchase is sized to the thickness of your practice steel.
Don't worry about making everything perfect. There is a learning process. And it will take much patience.
If you have family, kids or neighbor kids (get permission from guardians) it get an extra helmet and PPE. Stay away from galvanized and work outside so no one is directly breathing the shielding gases. This can really be a family event. Where everyone learns.
It'll likely take alot of rod before you like your welds. Stay away from any life-safety welding and overhead use welding for a long time.
Meanwhile have fun!

Daryl
MN
 
I agree, duty cycle is a tradeoff. The cheap 120vac in flux core welders have a very low duty cycle, which is VERY easy to exceed. Stick welding you may be able to actually weld 90% of the time if you chip fast and have a lot of metal to lay down. It's more likely you will be welding less than 75% of the time.
With MIG you can get very high welding time ratios, since you dont need to swap electrodes or chip.
The thermal inertia of the machine is where that "x out of 10 minutes " stuff comes from. The transformer starts at one temperature and rises to its limit at the rated cycle. Less arc time, lower temperature, longer lasting machine.

My serious industrial Miller Synchrowave 300 is rated for 300 Amps at 60% duty cycle. This is a machine that has a lifting eye for a reason ;-)

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
My welder does 100% duty cycle at 70% of its rated amperage, so about 175 amps. I never weld above 90 amps, so I never see a problem. - For the very first time in 20 years the cooling fan went on the other day! Surprised the heck out of me - I didn't know it had one!
 

Dabbler​


If your welding machine can do 175A on 70% then that must be min 250A and i dont think is for 110/220v can be 380/440v .
part of , if you have old transormer with diode but all new welding machine are based on inverter technology. So what is that 20y old machine ?? :) Hahaha that good not started for 20y and now is running , old machine are better then new one .

Weldingrod1​


Miller Synchrowave 300 that i was using for 6 monts so i know what you talking about .. :) is heavy as hell and when side plate bolts lost then noise like buldozer but did job even was to hot . I got plenty of Miller experience , good for home use but when you start to use and kicking every day then cable inside start melting. That is old machine and is better then new Miller for sure .

When you buying welding machine then DUTY CYCLE is most important informations but not before brand name , then is cable and clamp quality check, and for sure rest is not important part of if welding machine looks like box and shape and style like 10-15y a go. Bigest problem in USA is 110V my all friends in USA using tranformer 110v TO 220V and then you can do something otherwise always just problems.

when you start weld with 1.2 or 1.6mm wire then you can see different betwen brands and quality of welding machine and be honest MILLER is no ther for sure, i know is made in USA and they using for automotive to but far i know they losing and company replace them with ESAB of Fronius . By my experience all duty info on poor Brands are incorect and more of time they writing limits informations. All duty should be tested at 40C bud that is done most of time just by well know welding brands and that is the reason why i said they just looks like welding machine but realistically they cant weld like they should do . That all what i wan to say .. :)
 
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Hello @Weld ON

I have a Millermatic 250, a 240 volt transformer type welder. It will supply up to 300 amps, but as I said I usually use it at lower amperage. It predates the electronic type welders by about 10 years. For the type of materials I use and how I personally like to weld, I usually do a root pass and a few cover passes afterwards. I purchased it used 22 years ago from a Miller dealer. I have found it and my Miller EconoTIG 300 to be very reliable and stable units.

As far as brand loyalty goes, I'm sure their low end welders are crap - but their industrial offerings are still top quality. This is true of the red ones as well as the popular electronic welders such as ESAB. It is unfortunate that every manufacturer sells a low end unit to meet market demand, but isn't really good enough to do basic stuff.

My recommendation if you want to do stick, is to look on the used market for an AC/DC transformer 'tombstone' type unit. they can't be beat and will outlast you and your grandchildren. The newer inverter types have too many problems and seem to die after only a short time or at the first abuse.

My view is reversed for higher amperage TIG units, I have an old school TIG, but the new industrial TIG units with all the preflow/postflow pulse duty cycle options make TIG welding much easier. I would still go Miller again, but for a lot of bucks - never their economy units.
 
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