Have a Taiwan made 10x24 that the oil seals for the spindle have gone bad. I could fill up the reservoir and it will be empty the next day. So I have started the disassembly but run into a problem. Has anyone taken one apart, IT is the same as the old Jet 10X24 or Grizzly 12x36 etc. Have it all down to the point where I would take the spindle out, but the bearings almost act like they are pressed on the spindle, In addition The bull gear is also like it is pressed on. Took all of the set screws out of the collars and was able to get the rear bearing to move about 1/2 inch on by taping the spindle forward, but then the Bull gear starts hiting and have been unable to get it to move. Thus siting with the spindle part way out of the head. Need to get it all the way out so I can verify the seal sizes to order replacements. And to inspect the bearings. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Ken
Can’t help you with your specific lathe. But on a general note of caution. You want to avoid on a bearing the transfer of thrust from the race through the steel balls to the other race when you disassemble and or assemble the bearing. It could damage the bearing…Dave
i have heard of others making a cap for the spindle and drawing the spindle out with an allthread and pipe puller arrangement
if you could warm up the bearings and bull gear with a hairdryer or lightly with a heat gun, you may be able to expand the bearing enough to loosen its grip on the spindle
here is a manual
I have a heat gun, I will try that tomorrow if I get a chance to get in the garage. Do not have a cap for the spindle. But something that your post made me think of was to put the face plate on and use some al thread and run up against the head and screw it in to kind a press against the head casting to push/pull the spindle. Also found that oil was leaking out through the sleeves on each side of the rear bearing. the seal rides on them but it was leaking the oil out through them as there is nothing to seal between them and the spindle shaft that they ride on. I wander if it was this instead of the seals but now that I have it part way torn down I will replace them.
I have an old Taiwanese Grizzly 12x24, variously called DF1224G or G1003. Here's the manual for the G1003. Pages 21 and 22 tell how to replace the main belt, which includes working the spindle part way out. With that info, you can probably remove the spindle all the way. Best wishes!
Ok, I have heated the bull gear with a heat gun but still would not budge. Then tried heating with a propane plumber torch, to the point I could not keep my fingers on it, but still could not get the bull gear to budge. The only thing I could think of is if I had a press big enough I could brace the bull gear against the case with wood, then try to press the spindle shaft out. The bull gear is on so tight that I have split the wood I was using on the end of the spindle while trying to drive it out.
I have a Taiwanese 12x16 lathe and recently removed the spindle to replace a gear. First, to seal the leak you may not have to remove the spindle all the way out. Remove it half way and apply gasket maker like https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U
Still, if you want to remove it make sure to check if a snap ring is holding the bull gear. Mine has one and I had to displace it. I also thought the key in the bull gear was press fit because it was very tight initially when the spindle was half way out. But it was not press fit and somehow managed to move it freely. When the spindle is half way out you should make sure the spindle is aligned with the bearing axis when applying force. Attached pictures show how I removed the spindle.
I got the spindle out it left some rust/gall marks on the spindle where I had to press the bull gear out. Not real bad but it took some force to get it loose. I will polish the spindle before I put it back and make sure that hot gear and cold spindle go together properly. I think the bull gear is supposed to be an interference fit on mine as it only has the key to keep it from spinning but nothing to keep it from moving around on the shaft. I also just pressed the Bearing off it was an 32211 bearing and I had purchased a 30211 so had to order a new one. The outside bearing was proper with a 30210. Fun part on the front bearing was getting the race out of the head as there is an oil way behind it then the seal area, so could not get to it from the back to push it out, and did not have a proper puller to pull it out. Finally took a hook took and caught behind the edge and hit that with a hammer and just kept working around it until I got it moving . Took a while. But now everything in the head is apart and ready to clean up, paint and put together with new bearing and seals.